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So occasionally I have the crazy dash cluster issue where my needles get stuck at random rpms and mphs. I disconnect the battery and everything resets. I've discovered the cause of my problem. As it turns out, the needles get stuck while I am driving and turn on my aftermarket HID's. So if I am at 3500 rpm, and hit the lights, the needle will no longer return to 0. Anyone else? Is there anything I can do to prevent this?
 

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i'm wouldn't be so quick to conclude HIDs. sounds more electrical/headlight related. you could try putting the stock bulbs to determine if it is the HIDs or just headlights in general.
 

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So occasionally I have the crazy dash cluster issue where my needles get stuck at random rpms and mphs. I disconnect the battery and everything resets. I've discovered the cause of my problem. As it turns out, the needles get stuck while I am driving and turn on my aftermarket HID's. So if I am at 3500 rpm, and hit the lights, the needle will no longer return to 0. Anyone else? Is there anything I can do to prevent this?
Mine do the same thing, but it happens at random RPMs when on the gas and turning on the HIDs.

I've solved the problem by just turning them on at startup. I like to drive with them anyway to help with visibility for SUV drivers.

I've theorized that they cause a voltage drop which freaks the cluster out. Mine just resets with the reset procedure, though.
 

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Could a weak battery be the ultimate problem? Are you using one of the small light weight batteries? If voltage drop is the problem and you want to keep the battery you have, you might add a large capacitor, such as the ones used for audio systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Stock battery.

3500 rpm was just an example - The point at which the needle gets stuck is usually in relation to the rpm I happen to be at when I turn on the lights.

I had no cluster issues before I installed the HID's.

Thanks guys. Anyone else?
 

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Its been reported before a few times that the electrical system/cluster gets upset with HID's, the cars wiring and electrical system was just not designed for all of them.

It is a voltage drop/spike that causes the problem, a filter/supercap would probably fix if it installed close to the cluster.
 

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I've had HID's for a year and a half or so with no issues...
Your's is a 06, so you probably have DRL, at least for the US models, not sure about Japan. No probably here probably for the same reason.
 

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me too

This happened to me the other day. I turned on my HIDs and the dash went wacky. It was about 32 degrees out, so the battery may have been a little low. I used the reset procedure, and things seem to be back to normal now. Might be a good time to splurge for a new battery.
 

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I have had my HIDs installed for over two years, I turn them on and off while driving, or engine on, no problems to report.
My HIDs are from Sector 111 FWIW.
 

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Matt, which HIDs do you have? 35 or 55W?
 

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Granted I've only had my HID's a month or so, but I have the 55W DDM tuning hid kit. I can turn them on whenever I feel like it. no strange issues thus far.

If it matters my usual routine, is start the car, then turn on headlamps, and then back out of garage (or drive off into the sunset).;)

I have in the past turned the headlamps on as I'm going down the road, no issues there either.
 

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Never had a problem like that, myself. Most all HID ballasts generally consume significantly less power than the stock lighting when running, however they do cause a pretty significant spike when first igniting.

The best place to start is probably pulling the cluster out and putting a lead on the power supply wires. See what's going on when you flip on the lights. If there's a big drop below ~10V or so, it's possible that's your issue, as charlie said, a small cap will fix it.

Another thing you can try which is potentially less invasive, is stick a big load on the battery (large cooling fan or some other 12V load of significance) when it's running, and see if that causes your cluster to go crazy as well. If so, you may have battery and/or alternator problems.

I would also check voltage at battery with the engine running, make sure it's over 13V. If not, you might have a wind or two burnt in the alternator, which is not enough to trip the charge idiot light, but will make many things unhappy.
 
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