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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I wrote a little while back about having grooved my front rotors pretty badly at the track (in the next to bottom picture you can really see ow it looked). In fixing this up I thought I'd share a simplified rotor removal trick in case others might benefit (hopefully this isn't so obvious that it's silly, but sometimes the obvious might be easy to overlook).

Removing the caliper in order to provide clearance to remove the rotor is a bit of a hassle for a couple reasons. First, the hard lines have to be removed (which makes a bit of mess and requires later bleeding). Second, and for me the biggest issue, the socket-head mounting screws that attach the calipers are a pain to remove and I have had lousy luck getting fasteners of that type to readily let go without them stripping out. On my car they were pretty tight and when the 3/8 impact gun failed to budge them and I was preparing to step up to the 1/2 inch gun I thought I'd see how else to do this.

It's pretty simple. First remove the brake pads like you normally would and then remove the set screw that holds the hat to the hub. I find with fasteners that are likely to be seized (and especially those that have been heat cycled) that tapping them for a good long while first helps ease their removal.

The rotor will not slip out due to clearance problems between the hub and the caliper, but it is really darn close. All it takes to slip it out is to remove one of the fasteners that attach the hat to the rotor. These fasteners have a nut on the backside, so removing the nut makes it really easy to undo one of these fasteners and stripping the head of the socket-head on the opposite side is a non-issue.

Once a single fastener has been removed, just orient the rotor to place the missing fastener in the center of the caliper and there is enough clearance to slip the rotor out without trouble.

Much easier than removing the caliper. Hope someone finds this little tidbit helpful.

Knut
 

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Hey, where did you get those temperature sensors for your calipers ? Do they work well --- are they useful ?

How do they install ? Do they go over the existing Lotus badges, or do they need to be removed first ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got my temperature indicating strips at TopBrakes.com where you can find them under Brake Accessories. That's also where I get my brake pads and they seem to have a pretty good selection.

They work exactly as advertised. I used to monitor my temps using an IR thermometer, but I could never really tell what temps I was hitting since it's normal to run a cooldown lap before turning into the pits and my camp would never be right next to the pit area so it would take a little time to fetch the themometer, etc. With the strips the max temperatures are retained since the temperature blocks on the strip once changed are retained.

I adhere the indicators to the smooth machined face of the AP caliper. Seems perfect for a good contact. On my AP brakes the "Lotus" that appears on the machined surface appears to be etched into the face so I just stick right over the top. There is not such a convenient surface on the rears.

Knut



Hey, where did you get those temperature sensors for your calipers ? Do they work well --- are they useful ?

How do they install ? Do they go over the existing Lotus badges, or do they need to be removed first ?
 

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One way to loosen stubborn fasteners is to use an impact screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer and a cam inside turns the head while the impact shocks the fastener loose. I don't know about the AP brakes but on most cars you do not have to undo the brake line. Once you undo the fasteners that hold the caliper on there is usually enough movement of the brake line to get the caliper out of the way so you can get the rotor off.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Dave,

On my AP setup, the hydraulic line to the caliper is a hard-line that transitions to the flex line at a bracket mounted on the back of the spider, and the mounting bolt for that bracket is obstructed by the hard line fitting. So removing the caliper does not appear possible without needing to remove a fitting and incurring the associated fluid mess and bleeding, etc. If the flex line went all the way to the caliper (or the bracket could be removed while leaving the hard and flex line connected), then removing the caliper without any fluid mess would be possible, but that's not how my setup looks. Flexing the hard line might be possible to gain enough clearance.

Knut


One way to loosen stubborn fasteners is to use an impact screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer and a cam inside turns the head while the impact shocks the fastener loose. I don't know about the AP brakes but on most cars you do not have to undo the brake line. Once you undo the fasteners that hold the caliper on there is usually enough movement of the brake line to get the caliper out of the way so you can get the rotor off.
David Teitelbaum
 
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