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Discussion Starter #1
I have not driven the car for about 3 weeks and the battery was very low (had to recharge battery, trickle charger on its way). I now have a problem where the Tach reads 3000 RPM and the Speedo approx. 20 miles per hour with no key in the ignition. (great mileage this way!). I went into the manual and on page 52 it talks about if the needles get stranded out of the calibration range that you are suppose to open door, hold trip rest button and turn ignition on. Still no luck. Must have been related to the low battery (?).

Any one had this happen? Any thoughts? Don't believe I seen a thread on this one.

Thanks...

MHC
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Part II

If I disconnect the battery, and "reboot", will I have to reset the alarm system? Is that a real pain?

MHC
 

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Part III

Problem solved. Went to disconnect positive terminal on battery and found it loose (to the point of almost off). Took it off anyway and then reconnected it and both the Tach and Speedo returned to their normal place. Did not have to reset the alarm.

You might want to make sure both the Pos and Neg wires are tight on the battery, as this can cause you some problems. When I had this problem with the Tach and Speedo, the car did not seem to run very well. Now I know why....

MHC
 

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shay2nak
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veryfast has the same problem. Hopefully it will work for him also.
 

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MHC said:
I have not driven the car for about 3 weeks and the battery was very low (had to recharge battery, trickle charger on its way). I now have a problem where the Tach reads 3000 RPM and the Speedo approx. 20 miles per hour with no key in the ignition. (great mileage this way!). I went into the manual and on page 52 it talks about if the needles get stranded out of the calibration range that you are suppose to open door, hold trip rest button and turn ignition on. Still no luck. Must have been related to the low battery (?).

Any one had this happen? Any thoughts? Don't believe I seen a thread on this one.

Thanks...

MHC
Interesting. We'll have to see if this works. The battery went dead not too long ago, so I wonder if that's when the problem with the speedometer started.
 

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While driving today I also locked up my tach and speedometer. I also lost my LCD display, the bulb check for the "tell tale" lamps doesn't work when ignition is first turned on, and the warning for leaving the lights on (with ign off and door open) has failed also. I found my battery connections to be good. Couldn't find a bad fuse in the front fuse box ( couldn't really tell which fuse could cause this either). Any help would be appreciated. Guess I should have downloaded those manuals before now. Thanks, Bob.
 

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Instrument Pack died

I tried lifting a battery lead and didn't get any improvement. :shrug: I downloaded the manuals, but too many failures existed to determine a common source that I would fool with. :wallbang: When all else fails, go back to the dealer. 90 miles later and several hours waiting and I was on my way. The instrument pack had died. Luckily, Fox Valley had one on hand for another customer who, when called, graciously allowed them to use his on my car. If you are on this site, please accept my heartfelt thanks. :clap: I now have a Federal sticker on the door sill that advises one and all that my odometer was replaced (at xxxx miles) and reset to zero. Hope this info is never needed by any other members here, but at least a search should find this thread. Regards, Bob.
 

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My battery died . . . why I do not know. When we tried to charge it back up, it took a lot of attempts. It finally caught, but froze the tach and speedometer to 5rpm and 80mph. The mileage still is accumulating. I will check the positive cathode hopefully this works also I will try the open door thing . . . hope I do not have to get a replacement and a fed sticker :)

:mad:
 

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I had the same problem, the dealer tried the factory reset, it didn't work. They ordered a new instrument cluster. I saw this thres, disconnected the battery, tried the reset and now it's perfect. At least for a while. I called the dealer to let them know. They said "I guess that crap on the internet isn't all bad" :shrug: I told them to keep a cluster in stock.
 

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I should have mentioned earlier that I asked the dealer about temporarily disconnecting the battery before driving to the dealership. He agreed and stated that they usually do this first. He also suggested leaving the battery disconnected for 5-6 minutes. I also made sure I had the security card in the radio before disconnecting the battery. Nothing happened the first time I tried to start the car after this test. Figured I had really messed things up. Key off and retried and car started ok, but still no indications. The open door process did nothing either. So into dealership I went. Regards, Bob.
 
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