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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
SEE FINAL UPDATE AT END OF THREAD

STAGE 2 INSTALL

I finally finished the installation of the Stage 2 this weekend. Not that hard to do, but had a few issues along the way. Took about 3 hours.

Here’s how I did it:
1. Put car up on Rhino ramps, removed diffuser and engine under tray.
2. Remove aluminum access panel on passenger side. This is a small panel with 4 screws that attach to the heat shield. You must remove this to allow exhaust to slide over. This is where one side of the exhaust drops down and slides left to remove from cat pipe.
3. Removed Hanger Bolts and rubber bushings from Access Panel side. These pieces are on the exhaust hanger long stud. Remove and place on new exhaust.
4. LOOSEN Hanger Bolts on driver’s side. DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS AND BUSHINGS ON THIS SIDE.
5. Remove exhaust clamp nut and applied PB blaster to joint. Let sit for 15 minutes and then separated pipes. Slide exhaust to the left, disengage exhaust from hanger bolts on driver’s side, drop exhaust down and remove from car. CAREFUL: The exhaust is heavy; it dropped on my chest, as I wasn’t ready for the weight. Ouch!! :eek:
6. Now I prepped the Diffuser Panel to enlarge the opening for the new exhaust, using template that comes with the exhaust.
7. Taped template over existing opening, traced cutout line with Sharpie.
8. I used a combination of Dremmel and Jigsaw tools to cut/enlarge opening. Aluminum cuts fairly easily, but making some of the turns was tough. Initial cut was rough. So I used a Dremmel with sanding stone attachment to smooth and feather edges. No sharp edges, OK to handle.
9. I took the Diffuser panel to a powder coater and had it done in a textured black. (pics at a later date.)
10. Now to install Stage 2. Start by re-inserting hanger stud on exhaust into the hanger bushings on driver’s side first.
11. Lift exhaust up and slide exhaust pipe onto cat pipe. MAKE SURE EXHAUST CLAMP IS ON EXHAUST PIPE BEFORE YOU CONNECT PIPES. Otherwise you will have to take them apart again. DO NOT tighten exhaust clamp until you complete Steps 13 & 14 below.
12. NOTE: OEM exhaust clamp wasn’t used, as it didn’t tighten down enough on Stage 2 exhaust. I bought a Stainless Steel T-clamp (Summit Racing, $5.50) instead.
13. Raise other side of exhaust and reattach passenger side hanger bolts and bushings to rear sub-assembly.
14. BEFORE tightening hanger bolts, position new exhaust at center point of car. I test fitted the Diffuser panel to make sure it is lined up properly.
15. Tighten Exhaust Clamp and all other bolts. Refit Access Panel.
16. I started and ran the car for several minutes before re-fitting all the under trays.
17. SOUNDS GREAT!!
18. When I have everything back together with powder coated diffuser and boomerang tow hook from Sector 111, will post final pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
More Pics

Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More pics...

Wayne
 

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shay2nak
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does anyone know if the Exige S' diffuser needs to be cut to accept the stage 2 tips?
 

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shay2nak said:
does anyone know if the Exige S' diffuser needs to be cut to accept the stage 2 tips?
I don't think so -- should fit w/o any trimming. The cut-out for the "S" oval tip is already quite large.
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UPDATE --- My experience with stage 2 on the Exige S

I just posted this in another thread and wanted to add to Waynes great write up for everyone's reference...

I literally just finished putting the stage 2 on my S. It didn't go like my previous N/A Exige. :wallbang:

First of all, I can confirm that the diffuser does not need to be cut on the S. It is close but if everything is lined up and centered, it fits. :clap:

I did run into an unexpected glitch that I wasn't aware of or ever heard anyone here mention before...there is some extra shielding on the drivers side. It goes around the curve of the pipe, just after the converter, where the oxygen sensor plugs in. The are 4 small threaded bolds - but even when you get those out - you still have to take out the o2 sensor.

I removed those bolts so it was loose and could get my hand to it from underneath. Because I didn't take out the o2 sensor - I worked around this the entire time. :wallbang: I couldn't use a swivel socket because there wasn't any clearance between the shielding and the drivers hanger. I was able to just reach in there with the shielding loose to use a very small ratchet I have. Once I got them loose - I just slid the exhaust brace into the hanger (after pounding repeatedly with a rubber mallet).

This S took me over 2 hours because it was tricky to get around that shielding and loosen the hanger on the drivers side. It was also a PITA to get those tiny screws back into that shielding once I was done. It's hard to decribe but it was not as simple to line it back up once I took those screws out. I have read where some say the drivers side hangers dont need to be loosened - but I haven't been successful with that approach. I admit I can get one off without loosening - but those rubber bushings are just too tight to try to force a new one back in without loosening the hanger. I don't know - maybe it's me.

As I mentioned before, I put one of these stage 2 on my N/A Exige and it was pretty simple. It probably took me about an hour to take off the original and put on the stage 2. It took me less time when I took it off and put the stock exhaust back on before I traded it.

Sorry - I would have taken pictures if I realized I was in for something different this time - I just wasn't expecting that.

So heads up to those with S's who are going to put the Stage 2 on themself - in some ways it is easier (no diffuser cutting) but in some ways it is a little more difficult (accessing the drivers side hanger). Regadless - I feel the effort was worth it - I just love the way these pop and bumble - sooooo much better than stock. :cool: And I do not detect any power difference - better or worse. :tadts:
And BTW - Imolas54 - what is your secret to getting the new one to slide in if you don't loosen the drivers side hanger?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In addition to loosening the driver's side hanger bolts, I used some PB Blaster sprayed onto the exhaust stud and around the rubber bushings.

Slid right out. No hammers or banging required.

To reinsert, I cleaned off Blaster and used saliva as a lubricant to slide into bushings.

Didn't want to leave Blaster product on rubber bushings.

Wayne
 

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Great post. Do you have a Summit part no. for that t-clamp? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
STAGE 2 INSTALL - UPDATE

I finally finished putting the whole thing together, including the black powder-coated diffuser panel and Sector 111 "boomerang" tow hook.

Powder-coating was $50.

I bought the Exige diffuser edging (silicone split tubing) to get the black color. The Elise tubing is silver. Silicone is a PITA to glue/bond to powder-coated metal. I ended up using Loctite "superglue".

I also used some garden sprinkler system hose, which I split with a razor blade and snapped onto the edge of the diffuser. Much easier to work with, but a little thicker, and heavier, too. :rolleyes:

The tow hook was simple to install. I bought some additional hardware: spacers, lock washers and longer bolts to attach the piece.

To keep the tow hook "tongue" from bouncing off the diffuser, I bought a pack of industrial strength Velcro patches. I put them all around the contact area on the tongue. Turns out that powder-coated metal is a "Low Surface Energy" (LSE) substrate, so I got some LSE adhesive and built an insert spacer with LSE adhesive on each side and put it between the diffuser and the Velcro pieces. Everything stays put now.

I like the new look and the Stage II is really a great-sounding exhaust! :clap:

Regards,
Wayne
 

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Thanks for the write up and pics, I will be putting my stage 2 on this week! Do you know if cutting is nessessary on the openings for the Exige? I'd hate to scratch up my diffuser...
 

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Shawn C said:
Thanks for the write up and pics, I will be putting my stage 2 on this week! Do you know if cutting is nessessary on the openings for the Exige? I'd hate to scratch up my diffuser...
Yes. If you have a stock exhaust diffuser, you'll either have to cut it yourself or have a dealer do it. If you choose to DIY, you can find a template here, in Patricko's thread.

EDIT: LOL, I didn't see that it was posted above - eh, it's cleaner in P's thread.
 
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