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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently developed a problem when cold at start up (starts first time, easily). For about a minute the engine stumbles and if I try to give it gas it feels as though it will stall. It reminds me of the "old days" with a manual choke. By the way, no CEL's. Anyone have an idea?
 

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This happened to me when my 2nd cam and 3rd cylinder rocker arm broke.

Problem was fixed when the parts were replaced. I hope this is not the case for you, or that your car is still under warranty.
Mine started doing this after 1500miles... was about to post a thread on it...:(
It happens at first start up of the day regardless of temperature... later on it's fine. :shrug:
Engine stumbles for few seconds and stabilizes... everything seems to be running fine after that.
If 2nd cam and 3rd cylinder rocker arm are broken how can it affect the initial start up and not driving? :confused:
 

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try letting it sit for 30 seconds before touching the throttle.

its not an uncommon problem
He's had his car for a while and it sounds like the problem is worse than the standard "tadts." When my car got worse I thought it was within normal limits for our car, but after I got the cam fixed its back to normal (a little shaky for the for 15 or so seconds).
 

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it always could be a real problem, if its very rattly too, i know mine will choke out and die if i press the throttle before its ready when its really cold,.
 

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try letting it sit for 30 seconds before touching the throttle.

its not an uncommon problem
sit 30 sec w/o throttle input, the idle becomes normal... not an uncommon problem meaning it's not a serious problem that I shouldn't worry about?
Car runs fine after that but still annoys me after hearing about 2nd cam and cylinder rocker problems on this engine...
 

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couldn't tell you if its a serious problem or not, all i can tell you is its perfectly normally for the cars to die out when they're really cold at idle, but the same effects have different causes.

if it goes away after a 30 second idle, its probably just the TADTS, if not it might be serious, take it to the dealer and let them diagnose it, they might have a newer reflash which can help too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Interesting that it's a common problem. Mine only started doing this a month ago, though. The weather here in Florida is very warm now so I don't think ambient has much to do with it. When it first starts up it idles fine, it's only when I give it throttle that it hesitates and threatens to stall, although it never does.
 

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Interesting that it's a common problem. Mine only started doing this a month ago, though. The weather here in Florida is very warm now so I don't think ambient has much to do with it. When it first starts up it idles fine, it's only when I give it throttle that it hesitates and threatens to stall, although it never does.
Mine did that. After a few minutes, it went away; not a big deal. OTOH, I also ended up with a broken rocker arm. Whether that's a coincidence, :shrug:.
 

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How does the car feel when driven with a broken rocker arm?
Any lights on the dash comes on? rattles from the engine? or nothing at all just lost power?
 

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How does the car feel when driven with a broken rocker arm?
Any lights on the dash comes on? rattles from the engine? or nothing at all just lost power?
The light came on hitting 3rd on 2nd cam. After that, it went into limp mode, or at least sounded like it was running on three cylinders. If you don't get on cam, you won't get a light. It ran very rich and had difficulty even getting up to temp.
 

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My CEL came on only when it misfired which was irregular in frequency. The motor always sounded normal until it went into limp mode. FWIW, I think I can pinpoint the EXACT moment my cam/rocker arm failed.

I was driving enthusiastically (but not abusing the motor) in some twisties, pretty much always on the 2nd cam. Was doing this when there was a muffled bang/pop (probably the misfire) and the car went into limp mode for the first time. The tone of the motor changed after that. It sounded a little deeper or raspier, but otherwise felt mostly normal. I didn't appreciate any power loss until it got it fixed, then WOW! what a difference.

Back to the thread....
 

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My '05 Elise has had this after start up hesitation problem almost since new. I just let it idle for a little while after start up and there is no problem after that. Of course, I just had my cam replaced and I am so used to the hesitation on start up that I haven't been paying that much attention, so I will have to report back if the new cam has made a difference. FWIW, I brought this issue up when the car was in for service a while ago and the mechanic said almost all the '05s do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will inspect the cam before the warranty expires in November.
It's a 2005 with 6200 miles.
Seems it is normal for '05's, so I am not going to worry about it, especially as it runs normally after 30 seconds or so.
 

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Are you driving the car and then shutting off the engine as soon as you stop?

I think that a long time ago, people mentioned that their cars stalled. Mine had a ECU reflash that was part of a service bulletin back around the end of 2004.

If I recall, the ECU seems to get confused if you are driving the car at normal speed and then come to a stop and shut off the car. It thinks that you are going to be shutting off the car if the RPMs are low and stops giving it gas and it stalls if you step on the gas. Try letting the car idle for about a minute before shutting off the engine. This will let the ECU know that the car isnt going to be shut down once the RPMs drop down to the 800-900 RPM idle range and should stop the problem.

It aslos sounds like it could be a clogged fuel filter.
 
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