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when you engine first starts it doesnt have any oil pressure... but just make sure that you have the AC turned off and anything else that will load the engine turned off when you first start the car, and dont rev it as soon as you start it... thats a good way to wear your lower end bearings.
 

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Does starting an engine too much create wear? ... How much is too much? Sometimes it's unavoidable. ...
three options:

1- don't start it. just push it or tow it to wherever you're going.
2- start it, but leave it running... always. oil changes could be tough though.
3- use it like a normal car and don't worry about it.


edit: 4th option: leave it parked and just stare at it.
 

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oil it before statup

1. tilt car side to side
2. turn car upside down
3. roll back and forth fast.
4. get an accusump and dischage it into the engine before startup.
5. use good oil and don't let car sit for more than two weeks without starting.
6.jump on hood a few time to splash oil.
7. spray oil into spark plug opening and let sit before running.
8.buy new engine every few years
9.it's a toyota ya nut, they do not die they move to 3rd world countries.

number 10. the world will end before the motor shows any wear so wtf.

Rahal /Letterman Racing says number 4, or 9, or 10 if your lucky.:clap:
 

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Synthetic oils have largely solved this problem.

I had a 71 Jeep CJ5. You could hear the metal to metal contact on cold startups until I went synthetic - then nothing. It was beautiful.
 

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O.K, after the jokesters.
Nowadays the major problem you can have is a lot of starts and short drives, where it never gets up to working temperature. You should try not to make a habit of using a car (any car) for multiple trips less than a couple of miles or so. The occasional one won't harm, but it'll wear faster and sludge quicker with multiple repetitive short journeys.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
O.K, after the jokesters.
Nowadays the major problem you can have is a lot of starts and short drives, where it never gets up to working temperature. You should try not to make a habit of using a car (any car) for multiple trips less than a couple of miles or so. The occasional one won't harm, but it'll wear faster and sludge quicker with multiple repetitive short journeys.

Thanks. That's really what I was wondering about. I almost always get up to temperature when I drive it. One exception was yesterday during my autocross. I'd have to turn it off in between runs; one reason was to cool down, but also because my CEL will go on if I let it idle too long. I just don't want to abuse the engine through negligence or ignorance or otherwise.


This. Get a job.

Are you referring to me? :confused:
 

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solution:

<IMG SRC ="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1193/1094128055_cf4eb69924.jpg">
 

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I almost always get up to temperature when I drive it.
Define "up to temperature"...

It's not just getting the coolant temperature up to normal operating level. It actually requires it to be up there for 20 minutes of more of driving - you have to get the oil fully up to temperature long enough to "boil off" the moisture/fuel/junk that accumulates in the oil.

Short drives don't get it "up to temperature" even if you do get it up to 195 degrees. That's one of the reasons that almost every car manufacturer indicates that "stop and go driving" is considered "heavy use" and has a more frequent maintenance schedule (or at least oil/filter changes)

Now, all that said, using good oil and frequent oil changes (say every 5,000 miles) should take car of the "problem", and it really shouldn't give you any problem.
 

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Doesn't matter... it's a YMMV kind of thing.

When I had a V8 Firebird Formula (2001) I lived just down the street from work for a long time but often would have to leave from work to go elsewhere, so every morning for about a year and a half my car made a 1 mile journey. 80k miles later it still laid low 13s at the drag strip and still got 30+mpg on the highway. Never had a leak, never had a problem with the car.

Maybe the 4-bangers are different. But I've had plenty of those too with no problems.

I think the most important thing, above all other home-brew tales, is to simply let the car idle until at a minimum a) the ECU idles down to normal idle rpm or, more ideally, b) the thermostat turns on (you see the temp needle begin to move...this is a must for winter temps). I have always done this, every car, every start. IMHO, that makes the biggest difference in longevity in terms of cold-start abuse. Idling is not too bad...trying to get out onto the road when the coolant/oil/diff/tranny fluids haven't come up to temp and viscosity.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
From ForcedFed.com
Forced Fed said:
On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up.

The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off.

After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump.

This moves the piston back and pressurizes the Accusump until it equalizes with engine's oil pressure.

While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason, the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal.
 

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I try and NOT start mine....about six months a year. :mad:
 

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I'm curious why you would worry about that. Most of us wouldn't put enough miles on the car for it to be even a minor concern.
 
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