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Discussion Starter #1
Been look at Evoras for a while but now starting to get a bit more serious.

What Im looking for is a MY12+ Evora S Manual, any colour any milage for under $50k US

Whats the thoughts on this one for the price? Its been on for quite a while.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Lotus-Evora-S/113903897267?_trkparms=aid=777001&algo=DISCO.FEED&ao=1&asc=20160801204525&meid=ed4034ccbb1b48da83df6136fef2d298&pid=100651&rk=1&rkt=1&mehot=ag&itm=113903897267&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci:5783d517-e335-11e9-b409-74dbd18045cb|parentrq:8049d46616d0aa13f5a6c337ff81be8c|iid:1

I know below 2012 is not ideal (though some 2011s fit into the MY12 mods though im not up to speed to the exact date.)
 

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I cannot speak to prices at the moment but, if, and this may be a big if, you want to bring the car back to showroom you are looking at over 50K for this one. The passenger side airbag cover is pretty badly warped...a classic hot weather Evora feature. You can even see the dash on the driver side is warped as well. This can be expensive to fix if you care at all about the cosmetics of this one. The airbag will work just fine. I am not sure if the dealer is holding on to the wheel center caps or if all 4 are actually just gone. Looking at the engine bay the black plastic tubing at the back is cracked and fading...another hot weather Evora feature...this is easily replaced by tubing that is more resistant to hot temps. Also, it appears there is not paint protection film on the front of the car but this could also be my bad eyes and off lighting.

I am sure some other members will chime in on prices relative to what has sold lately...haven't been in the market for years so I dunno. I am biased and would love to see them sell for as much as possible to keep my resale value up!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Out of curiosity, why the "below 2012 is not ideal..."?
Only from what others have said regarding all the small changes. Mainly wiring harness im guessing?
I am ignorant to it though so trying to read up on it.

Maybe its just 09, 10 that are less desirable because of this?

If the 2011 S is just as good option as the 12 then that would be great.
 

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Only from what others have said regarding all the small changes. Mainly wiring harness im guessing?
I am ignorant to it though so trying to read up on it.

Maybe its just 09, 10 that are less desirable because of this?

If the 2011 S is just as good option as the 12 then that would be great.
I've noticed that many MY '12 on up owners tend to recommend MY '12+ for purchasing. They reference the 150 upgrades for MY '12 as a major reason. However many of those upgrades were either small or cosmetic (interior/exterior color choices, caliper colors, interior door handles, etc.). Although, there were some mechanical changes too (NA cars received S suspension equivalent, gear cable change, different door seals and latches.). Somewhere on here one of the dealers posted a list of changes back in the end of 2011 but a quick search didn't locate it for me.

Anyway, the same MY '12+ owners also refer to issues on earlier cars with the master cylinders, wiring harnesses, door latches and shift cables. Interestingly, most of the issues have been common across the board including MY'12+ cars. For instance, there were also MY '12 cars with:

Failing master cylinders ( https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/when-clutch-masyer-cylinder-problem-fixed-399938/ )

Wiring harnesses that had to be replaced ( https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/poll-have-you-had-your-wiring-harness-replaced-342793/ )

Door latches (Inteva) that failed (https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/evora-false-driver-s-door-open-pictogram-469346/ ).

Although, many do prefer the newer MY '12+ leather interiors. But,of course, that is a personal preference. And, even some of the upgraded and refined MY12+ cars had:

Dashes with lifting issues and warped airbag covers (https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/cost-replace-dashboard-outside-warranty-321946/ )

Interestingly, I don't recall hearing of any 2010 master cylinder failures (metal body) and many MY 2010/2011 owners have not had shift cables issues with their cars. And, yes, some late build MY '11 cars have had SOME of the MY '12 changes.

My point is, don't believe everything you read on the internet. Instead, look and touch for yourself. There are plenty of MY 2010/2011 cars that are in great mechanical shape, just like there are plenty that are beat. However, I think the most important thing to do when buying any Lotus is to take a thorough look, have a PPI performed, do a test drive and cycle every button/knob/switch to make sure everything works. Ask for receipts of all work performed. This will show if there is an on-going issue or if something that was fixed was a one time occurrence. Then, negotiate accordingly. If you prefer a MY '12 with the newer interior/upgrades, well then look at a MY '12+. If you like the two-toned MY '10-11, then look at one of them.

Oh, and take some time to look at some of the links in the Evora buyer's guide: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/evora-buying-guide-449889/

Good luck with your search! :grin2:
 

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Only from what others have said regarding all the small changes. Mainly wiring harness im guessing?
I am ignorant to it though so trying to read up on it.

Maybe its just 09, 10 that are less desirable because of this?

If the 2011 S is just as good option as the 12 then that would be great.
You need to do your research. Research twice (or more), purchase once.

San
 

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Interestingly, I don't recall hearing of any 2010 master cylinder failures (metal body)
OP, I know of at least 3 (myself included) that had metal m/c failures. They used the metal ones from 09 through mid/late-2011, so it's kind of a crapshoot if you get that one or the plastic one. Of course there's plenty of plastic ones that have failed too, so it really is a moot point, and I consider it an (ab)normal wear item for these cars, and to just expect to change it at some point.
 

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Well, then I take that back. I didn't recall any of them being metal. I thought the ones I've read about (over the last 8 years) were all plastic.

And, that's why you don't believe everything you read on the internet! :grin2:
 

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I have a 50k mile clean title evora with all the mechanical issues fixed, clutch gearbox cables master, etc. Has a mildly split dash and the oyster seats are beat up. Good exterior. Will install a BOE chargecooler supercharger while its apart $50,000
 

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Having owned a 2010, 2014 S and a 2017 400, I would simply say that all other things being equal, buy the latest model that fits your budget. Every year they improved the car and while any single improvement may be inconsequential, the sum total of improvements over time are significant. But there is also significant variation in how well cars have been maintained and that must be considered.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a 50k mile clean title evora with all the mechanical issues fixed, clutch gearbox cables master, etc. Has a mildly split dash and the oyster seats are beat up. Good exterior. Will install a BOE chargecooler supercharger while its apart $50,000
Cant pm you because your inbox is full.
 

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Bet this is going to go for cheap and I havnt even looked at selling my car!
That looks like a well-optioned example and probably a good choice. I have a 2011 S a lot like this one -- fancy interior, all the options -- which I'll be fixing up soon. It took a no-speed front end bump: no structural damage but enough little odds and ends that the ins co totaled it. If I'm not too lazy to take pictures, I'll post some notes on the restoration here so people can see how easy these cars are to work on, and how solidly engineered they really are. Just my opinion, but an Evora is a great choice for a serious enthusiast, and the early cars in particular will be very easy to maintain over the long term.

PPIs are tough with Evoras, as it's hard to find a knowledgeable shop in many parts of the country, but fortunately the cars are very easy to live with-- it's just the little stuff that breaks, for the most part. Not like buying, say, and F car or early Boxster, where major components can fail in a very wallet-emptying manner. Nobody on the board here has yet managed to wear out their Camry motor that I've seen, and although a few of us have done clutches and transmissions, that job is very DIY-able and not nearly as scary as reputed.

Kudos to @chirowolf for offering expert feedback in the auction comments, a rarity on BAT. :up:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I dont go on BAT a lot but I havnt seen an Evora on there. A few Elise and they went for (what I thought) way too cheap.
 

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If you go to the top of the page on BAT you can use the search function and see previous Evora's that sold. They do go too cheap IMO on BAT I would never sell mine there unless I just needed it gone in a hurry. Might be good place to buy though. I bet that '11 S won't get to 40k.
 
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