The Lotus Cars Community banner

81 - 100 of 126 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
Is it me or does the exige forum just not see a lot of posts? anyhow I'm gonna go ahead and try to keep it alive. so after I just got my steering wheel re-covered in Alcantara, it just isn't perfect wish it was just a little thicker, so decided to go with a sparco p300, more or less what the cup cars have. still waiting on the hub and quick release, i haven't cheaped out on any parts yet so figured why start now. I went with a Works Bell short boss and rapfix gtc flip up. a little nod to the JDM world from my younger days.
 

Attachments

·
Vendor
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Such a beautiful, well-done car. On a few of the mods like the stickers etc before you put them on, I was thinking "well that's gonna be a bit much!" However, when I saw everything on i.e. the finished product I was blown away at how good it looks! You have really great vision, so I am looking forward to what's next.

On the uprights, we're almost done with our design for front uprights. It is going to be the strongest, best geometry outright available an still save weight over the stock one. If you decide to stay with the OEM, Jdawson took all his control arms and uprights off, have them bead blasted, and then coated in yellow zinc. Came out beautiful. It is the same color as our front shock brackets. HOWEVER, on your car being silver you could go with silver/clear zinc to match the car. Great corrosion resistance and looks great. Best thing is that they dip the parts so $100 or so should do all of them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
@fzust I've been thinking a lot on what I want to do with the wishbones and uprights, I was toying with the idea of buying all new wishbones from Elise parts. upside they come with all new ball joints and bushings of my choice. downside is that they'll run around $2700 shipped. also looked at their uprights, the front gt upright and the ultimate road gt rear upright but it may be overkill for what I need and cost prohibitive being around $3k+ shipped with the various mounts I'd need, but then again cost seemingly hasn't stopped me yet. the third option is just to pull all my wishbones and like you said get them media blasted and plated and install new bushings and joints, my guess probably around $500 in bushings and ball joints and maybe another few hundred to get everything blasted and plated, so all said and done well under 1k. downside is the car would be out of commission for a while and sitting on jack stands while everything gets plated. as for the uprights I'm more than likely going to pull them and get them plated. but I'm very curious as to what you come out with. should I swap the wheel bearings out while I'm there?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
OK so again had a day off and decided it was time to install the rear speakers I've had sitting for the past 2 months. all in all a pretty straight forward install. you do need to remove the seats. I used JL C2 6" speakers and did not have to cut the pod. I did drill out the plastic rivets and put new ones in. I used some dynamat behind the speaker along with some polypill. sound quality is sooo much better. really is a big difference. I also used some dynamat under the seats and under the carpeted areas behind the seats.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Ok, I think my account is back up and running, so back to our regularly scheduled programming. I'm on the fence about the rear panel eliminator, but I'm gonna pull the trigger and do a BOE ST5 and difflow. so who needs a barely used Inokinetic Sonic Fury Diffuser Exit exhaust?
BOE makes an attachment (or you can have one made) to have the BOE ST (and ST5) route to the center lower exit.

I have a naked rear - and large diffuser. I love it, because it's functional. My car doesn't get a lot of street use (2 young kids), but when it did, I like the look of the factory rear better. It's personal choice.

If you do have a center rear made, I can send you the Exige Oval tip. I have a spare that I had hacked off an old exhaust. You can add the pipe, and have all the benefit of of the BOE ST5, with the stock look!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
I was thinking of going with a Difflow rounded diffuser and with the slightly larger diffuser I prefer the look of the high exit. I'm thinking I'll just got St5 and difflow and keep my diffuser and exhaust and go back and forth if I get bored.


BOE makes an attachment (or you can have one made) to have the BOE ST (and ST5) route to the center lower exit.

I have a naked rear - and large diffuser. I love it, because it's functional. My car doesn't get a lot of street use (2 young kids), but when it did, I like the look of the factory rear better. It's personal choice.

If you do have a center rear made, I can send you the Exige Oval tip. I have a spare that I had hacked off an old exhaust. You can add the pipe, and have all the benefit of of the BOE ST5, with the stock look!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
I was thinking of going with a Difflow rounded diffuser and with the diffuser I prefer the look of the high exit. I'm thinking I'll just got St5 and difflow and keep my diffuser and exhaust and go back and forth if I get bored.
Totally fair. Since you seem keen on a very clean look, maybe taking a crack at some OEM looking grills, instead of naked above the difflow diffuser? With a hole cut for the ST5 exit? Just thinking out loud.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Hi Ray, tried to post this yesterday.... Wheel bearings do wear, but on a low mileage car you may be fine. We have them, I need to get them on the website, I will try to do so today. Additionally, we actually make the thru-diffuser exit pipe for the Track exhaust. You can leave it, cut it flush, or put whatever tip on it you wish. https://www.blackwatchracing.com/Low-Exit-Pipe-for-BOE-Exhaust-p/1110.htm
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
Ok, so I actually have had to work the past few days but I got to sneak away and get these alloy signal stalks on, easy install, cut, Dremel a bit, slide them on, tighten the set screws and reinstall the rubber gaiters. really like how clean they look. So I'm gonna admit I bought the car thinking I'd do a few MINOR things just to tidy the car up, it's a very low mileage 2008 that was turn key and already a 9+, and now I'm heading towards every nut and bolt and imperfection is getting addressed, there goes my plan of a simple build. I think it's become an obsession now.
1254148
1254147
1254150
1254151
IMG_4051.jpeg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
USPS also just dropped this off, pure function here. really do think it's a good idea. MWR rear lift point kit.
1254152
1254153
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
So instead of doing things like putting my shiftr111 and cables in.....I'm being lazy and just did the MWR rear lift point kit. passenger side literally just bolts in. I did take the belly pan off but really isn't needed. on the driver side however the lower plate where it has the corner machined about 1/16" isn't enough to clear the rivets holding the clutch line bracket. There are two rivets one with a plastic zip, I drilled that rivet completely out as there was no way to file it down to get the plate to sit flush. The other rivet I dremeled down maybe 1/16" of an inch so thhe lower plate would sit flush and not rock. all in all really straight forward and easy install. Tuesday I plan on going to visit Troy Trueleo and pick up a letsla kit, that's the real reason I didn't install the shifter and cables this weekend, so next weekend I'll spend it putting the shifter and cables in. anyone interested in helping in the NOVA area?
1254237
1254238
1254239
1254240
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #93
Ok so decided to go back my stock access panels instead of my Carbon fiber GRP access panels. while I was there I decided to re-clock my wiper arm.....why else.....because race car. anyways it was kinda a pain in the ass honestly. but here's the step by step on a 2008 Exige
1) Remove both left AND right access panels. 3mm hex
2) LOOSEN two 10mm nuts under the center stripe of the clam, the piece that runs between the access panels
3) Remove 8mm bolts holding fuse box to wiper motor cover, be careful here as there are white plastic spacers and a small washer under the bolt. the shorter spacer and shorter bolt go closer to the windshield and the longer spacer and longer bolt go toward the front of the car.
4) remove two Phillips head screws on outermost passenger side of wiper motor cover
5) Now the fun part. shimmy the wiper motor cover out through the passenger side of the access. be careful but this takes quite a bit a patience.
6) place your hand under the wiper motor and feel for the 13mm nut. loosen the nut almost all the way but not completely off
7) take a short flat head screwdriver and pop the arm off the arbor. move the wiper blade to 12 o'clock and tighten the 13mm nut. run the wiper and make sure it centers, otherwise repeat process of loosening nut and reclocking wiper.
8) reassemble, by putting cover in through passenger access, tighten 10mm nuts on center, attach fuse box with the 2x 8mm bolts, short bolt and short spacer in rear, and longer bolt and longer spacer in front, don't forget the small washers here. finally the two Phillips screws.

1254252
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,470 Posts
Glad you are having fun. But, it's not a race car and the wiper thing is merely an affectation. I realize our tastes will differ.

g
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
Glad you are having fun. But, it's not a race car and the wiper thing is merely an affectation. I realize our tastes will differ.

g
the race car comment was meant to be tongue in cheek. I'm not sold on the look but I'll give it a shot for now. really was being lazy and didn't want to do real work on the car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #96
Went down and visited troy trueleo and picked up the last piece to the shifter puzzle, fingers crossed this along with new cables and the shiftr111+ makes the shifter acceptable. or at least in the neighborhood of an s2000
1254363
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
Picked up a soft top on the forums from @countryboyshane, couldn't pass the deal up and it's in perfect shape thanks Shane!! went ahead and ordered the pockets and spacers from dino @GatorMS_Sales so as soon as they get here I'll get the clam measured up and get them installed. Also overnight parts from Japan! not sure why but I'm super excited to get this new Sparco wheel and works bell setup installed. last piece I'm waiting on is the lotus horn button.
1254383

1254384
1254385
1254386
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
190 Posts
Let us know how you like the spacing with that set-up. I'm concerned about the extra distance the wheel will come out. Also, did you get the resistor/plug thing to make sure your airbag light stays off?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
so the spacing with the works bell hub and gtc sets the steering wheel 7mm closer to the driver. as far as the airbag goes, the hub comes with a resistor that you simply plug in. install is very easy. I'm not sold on the sparco p300, I have an OMP Trecento on the way which more than likely I'll use.

1) disconnect battery and center steering wheel
2) remove 2x 5mm hex cap bolts on both sides of airbag, remove airbag carefully, disconnect green tab and pull airbag connector, disconnect horn connector
3) remove 4x 5mm hex cap bolts holding steering wheel and remove wheel
4) install hub using 4x supplied 5mm hex cap bolts, I used a little pink locktite
5) on oem steering wheel I cut the horn connector and soldered the red(power) and black ground the quick release of matching colors so now my quick release is a easy plug and play to the factory horn wiring. downside if I go back to OEM I'll have to cut the connector and solder again.
6) using supplied resistor plug into airbag connector and secure using electrical tape.
7) get your quick release and plug in the newly soldered connector to factory horn connector.
8) now since I used a short hub there isn't a lot of space to tuck in all the wiring so carefully tuck in the airbag wiring that now should have the relay connected as well as the horn wiring into the hub area. Attach your quick release using the supplied 6x 5mm chrome bolts.
9) get your steering wheel and secure to hub using counter sunk screw which should be included with your quick release.
10) connect your horn to the wiring already in the quick release( I had to use a larger spade connector to connect to my horn button)

1254406
1254407
1254408
1254409
1254410
 
81 - 100 of 126 Posts
Top