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About a year ago, I had this problem on the right side and fixed it with a bungee cord.

Last night I started to remove the front clam and noticed that the previous owner used a bungee cord on the left side!

It is an easy, cheap and effective solution.


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I used a couple of dabs of clear silicone seal.
Another thread on here recommends the adhesive/sealant GOOP. I have that on both my signals now.
 

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I thought Goop would be too adhesive for task.
 

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I filled my clips with some window weld to give it some rigidity and haven't had a problem since. I can still pop them out if needed with out fear of them braking.
 

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Anyone have latest info for obtaining replacement indicator lenses? Lost mine at 70mph and it was bungied in. Bungy still attached to tab from the lens and the vehicle.
 

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So the bungie cord option has been around for ever but I never liked it. I implemented a new idea which I don't think anyone on the forum has tried before. Correct me if I am wrong please because what I think might be a new idea but it might already be documented but I just don't know it. Kind of like patents.
I drilled a hole in the tab portion that was left after the clip end broke off. Then I put a 3" SS screw through the hole in the clam just below the light. I will take pictures to document this option tomorrow. Too late to do it tonight!
 

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So the bungie cord option has been around for ever but I never liked it. I implemented a new idea which I don't think anyone on the forum has tried before. Correct me if I am wrong please because what I think might be a new idea but it might already be documented but I just don't know it. Kind of like patents.
I drilled a hole in the tab portion that was left after the clip end broke off. Then I put a 3" SS screw through the hole in the clam just below the light. I will take pictures to document this option tomorrow. Too late to do it tonight!
There is a similar solution to what you are describing @ Sands Museum
 

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I doubted I had a unique idea! Thanks.
 

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The few dabs of clear silicone are still holding nicely after 6 yrs.
 

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Well I don't blame the dealer - I blame Lotus for the faulty design (as is apparent based on everyone else having this same issue). I wouldn't expect them to fix the paint or anything - I just don't want to pay for a part that sucks to bad it breaks after 300 miles - and if I'm going to bungee cord fix it - I'll just use the 1st one that broke and they can have this other one back. I was assuming that the dealer could recoup the money from Lotus. But you for sure do have valid points - they didn't install it - so perhaps I'm out of luck - or at least out of luck as far as the dealer is concerned. If they say no I might actually contact Lotus themselves and see if they will do anything. It's not like it was an expensive part - less than 200 bucks - but its sort of the principle of the thing at this point. They obviously have to be aware of the flaw - but they've done nothing to fix it on these models. They should of replaced the cheap plastic part with something made of metal that won't break apart like these do. Considering the cost of the cars it seems to me this should be on them. I'm sure as hell not going to buy a $200 part and repaint my clam every 300 miles.
On my 2009 Elise, Lotus has "fixed" the design. Those headlight fixtures now have a bungee cord or thick rubber restraint inside.

One of my 2009 headlight fixtures cracked and I bought a used one from a member of the forum. I also added the bungee cord solution to that when I installed it.
 

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Hmm. My son-in-law 3D-prints stuff. On the other hand, I have used GOOP sealant on the rubber surrounds for the turn signals, so they are IN.
 

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I would be interested in get 4 of them. Cost? Timing? What material would you recommend. The originator suggested nylon.
I can print in nylon, but I might suggest a more rubbery material called NinjaFlex (TPU). I could print one of each material and you could decide how you wanted the others printed. $5 apiece plus $5 postate.
 

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This happened to my first Exige. I used the Sands Museum method but instead of a bungie cord, I used a metal spring. Found a few different lengths of spring at Home Depot in their screen door section (the spring is actually what they use to make screen doors close on their own). Drilled a hole in the remaining tab of the turn signal housing, hooked one end of the spring into it, then found a place on the crash structure and hooked the other end into that, you can use an existing hole or drill one of your own. It was super secure but still allowed you to lift the turn signal up if needed.
 
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