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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm installing a subwoofer into my Elise. Yeah I know but it can be removed in like 20 seconds. 7.7 pounds, all plug-in conncetions, easy to remove for autocross, track or whatever. It's a Kenwood powered sub that measures about 4 5/8 by 8 1/4 by 15 3/16. It comes with a wired remote controlling volume, crossover freq. and phase. It easily fits on the parcel shelf behind the seats and is simple to velcro in place. It's not intended to be an SPL champ for the hear it two blocks away crowd. It intended to fill in the missing portion of the sound that the factory speakers cannot handle. Even upgrading the four small main speakers won't come near the extra fullness this sub can provide. The seats are unaffected and the driver's side can be fully retracted with plenty of clearance. (The passenger side is a fixed seat for you noobs). Hard to notice when it's in place, I may even carpet over it as the bass sounds pass right through such material. It has about "100 watts) and uses a dual voice coil 5 1/4 inch driver and a 6 1/2 inch passive radiator.

I tried to find enough room for it to fit above the passenger foot area but it looks like that won't work. You can still put things into the netting, but the sub is in front of it now.

Model = Kenwood KSC-WA62RC AKA the "wOOx".

The Blaupunkt in the touring-equipped cars has a sub out which can be used to feed the sub...or else speaker level inputs to the sub can be used. Basically it looks like I need to feed it power, ground, and one RCA cable. The Elise comes with the extra plugs to provide RCA inputs and outputs - it's in the box in the trunk. It seems feasible to run some/all of the wiring up the center of the car, else under the side rail carpeting.

Some preliminary pics:







Now I need to find power...ground should be easy to find on this car!
 

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Stan- I'm a newbie when it comes to stereo mods- is there a way to lock/bolt this thing in place so a thief can't just walk away with it? Nice looking unit. How much $$$ ???

Let us know when you've completed the install. We definitely need a DIY forum here.
 

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Stan,
That's perilously close to blocking the cockpit intrusion sensor which is mounted behind the bulkhead around where the cargo net is, anything containing metal will make it not function properly.
Chris
 

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When you say "find power" do you mean electricity or power to drive it?

Does it have a built in amplifier or are you going to run one in the trunk? No way can you run that plus all 4 speakers off deck power...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
>>>Stan- I'm a newbie when it comes to stereo mods- is there a way to lock/bolt this thing in place so a thief can't just walk away with it? Nice looking unit. How much $$$ ??? Let us know when you've completed the install. We definitely need a DIY forum here<<<

It's pretty hard to see in the first place. Throw some black cloth or carpeting over the visible surface and it'll be gone. With velcro on the back and sides it won't be going anywhere....I may connect a strap anyway though as a back up.

Cost is just over $200 and you can get them for less mail order or via ebay. By placing a suitable capacitor across the speaker leads, the stock speaker won't draw any major bass current thus allowing them to play louder over the rest of the freq range. The built-in EQ can help out the as-delivered sound quite a bit BTW.

Stan
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
>>>That's perilously close to blocking the cockpit intrusion sensor which is mounted behind the bulkhead around where the cargo net is, anything containing metal will make it not function properly. <<<

Excellent point Chris! If need be I'll move the sensor if that would make sense, but I'd certainly prefer not to touch it or interfere with it in any way. The powered subwoofer extends 8 inches upward from the parcel shelf, and then at it's uppermost point extends towards the front of the car (from the firewall) about 4 1/2 inches. Also, the shelf extends behind the driver's seat more than it does behind the passenger seat. So maybe it can be offset a suitable amount behind the seat, which would also add to the stealth aspect. If you look at the PICs you can see the amount of extra space behind the seat. In the positions I have test fitted it in so far, the driver's seat can go all the way back without touching anything. Ideally I wouldn't mind finding a way to couple the woof box to the seat(s). Ala tactile transducers. This would then transmit the vibes to your body and believe it or not, seems like you are hearing actual bass even if the vibes came without airborne sound. This would give the sense of a larger subwoofer without all the huge boxes and drivers. That idea works great for thrill rides at Disney as well as many Home Theaters.
 

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Stan, just make sure it's really secure as 7.7 pounds could do some damage if it came loose in a high-g situation, intended or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
>>>Stan, just make sure it's really secure as 7.7 pounds could do some damage if it came loose in a high-g situation, intended or not.<<<

Yes, good idea...I like peace of mind. Maybe something simple like a tie-in to the netting would be enough. The woof would be mounted cones towards the cabin space and so it's "bottom" would face the firewall. Which is convenient as that is where is has a slew of tapped screw holes. From reading that cruise control thread where it shows what's under the center plastic thing the shift lever comes out of, it looks like some/all of the important wiring passes through this area....and thence to the alloy reinforcement.

BTW I read some reviews of the little subwoofer and everyone seems to say that it sounds surprisingly good, within it's output limitations. I cannot find anything else anywhere near it's size. You can almost fit two of them on the parcel shelf! One s/b just fine for filling in the missing bass but not booming everyone out of their beds at 2 AM.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
>>>Nice! Will it fit just beyond the passenger footrest?<<<

It appears not....but I am still fiddling around and will take a more careful look tomorrow. It definitely cannot fit ABOVE the foot area as it would extend downward too far...unless all passengers have very short legs, or sit funny or have size five feet on long legs... I'm leaning toward the behind the seat location even if it can fit right over that thing with the holes in it. To try to get some tactile sound benefits. I'll post a for-sure tomorrow when I can trial fit some more. As far as I know there are no other off-the-shelf options for an easy subwoofer solution for those who want such a beast.
 

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$200 is not a bad price at all.

I think I'll have to get this subwoofer to overcome the rumble of Shinoo's aftermarket exhaust! ;)
 

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Thanks, Stan. I'm looking at a component system to accomplish much of the same. I'll chime in when I have something concrete...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Shinoo, I checked at lunch time - there is not nearly enough room for a past the foot rest install using this sub. Custom could fit though. BTW you can sometimes buy these Kenwood minisubs for under 100 bux. For power and ground it looks like you can use the feed for the power socket near the parcel shelf. The sub draws up to 12 amps and it's a 20 amp circuit. I'll have to look into this. I was able to get the sub line out installed along with the remote amp turn-on wire.

The radio is EZ to remove (make sure you have the key card though, so that it can be turned on after it gets power again). To remove the radio you just pop off the face plate and used the two u-shaped gizmos provided in the radio box they leave in the trunk. If you bend back the sleeve tabs in dash, you can remove the sleeve so that you can access the hidden channel under the black part of the dash. This leads to the right where you can sneak it through some holes you can see if you remove the panel above the RHS storage pocket. Then you can run any wires under the touring pack side carpeting which velcros in place. I discovered that the passenger seat also has a lumbar thingey - I thought only the driver had one.

It's pretty tight in the dash area and there are few options to route wires so I was happy I found that channel. I need some more wire so I can finish the install.
 

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Many owners in the UK have fitted the Kenwood or Pioneer self powered subs behind the seats without issue. On the euro cars there is spare power take off point under the dash, left hand side behind the stereo head unit.

Alternatively go for the pax footwell - check out the kit here:

www.elise-goes-hifi.com

of have a custom rear bulkhead made for an 8" sub (like I have) - pics here:

http://community.webshots.com/album/57887221xRqcTQ
 

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As much as I'd like to be hardcore and avoid getting a sub, I'll probably end up caving eventually and getting one of these removable ones for highway use.

I love the sound of the engine, but it does tend to get boring after about 2 hours on the highway at pretty much steady RPMs.

I would *never* consider getting something that couldn't be removed in 2 seconds though.
 

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tbsmith said:
Here is a picture of my custom subwoofer, just to give you ideas. It took way too much time to build though. It is an 8" aluminum (of course) cone speaker.

Tom
Very nice. I bet building them now would be a breeze. I like to buy one from you :D
 

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tbsmith said:
Here is a picture of my custom subwoofer, just to give you ideas. It took way too much time to build though. It is an 8" aluminum (of course) cone speaker.

Tom
Looks good. Looks like you could fit a 10" sub in there... I may just give it a shot...
 

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Subwoofer

tbsmith said:
Here is a picture of my custom subwoofer, just to give you ideas. It took way too much time to build though. It is an 8" aluminum (of course) cone speaker.

Tom
Yeah Baby!!!!!!!!! But you just covered up the Red Bull holder.
:clap:
 
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