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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I was taking my 2005 Lotus Elise in for the ugly headlight issue (grind out the lights), and while I was there, my start button broke (Actually, it has been stuck in the on position for months, I bought an aftermarket one, and was being lazy about replacing it, since turning the key on, and having the car turn on, didn't seem like such a bad thing.).

It looks like the previous owner had glued this start button back together or something, so I pulled it out (because my carbon fiber inlays in the dash doesn't fit real well, allowing me to pull the whole thing forward - YA - great...), broke off the back of the start button, tried several times to short circuit the internals, pulled it off, tried to short circuit the leads on the plug, then plugged it back in again, remembering in my frustration that perhaps the immobilizer was on. Made sure to press the button on the key, then took my garage door opener clip (only thing metal on me), shorted the two leads inside the start button, and we were off running...

Well, kinda...

I had no tach, and no speedo, and after a minute or two, the immobilizer light started flashing. Luckily, we just kept on going, and I managed to get the thing home.

TLDR; FAST FORWARD TO THE WORK DONE SO FAR:

Reset the dash, pulled the battery leads for an hour, then plugged it back in.

Pulled out the dash, along with the entire display unit, and reset the connection on the back of the display unit, and... no luck. flashing immobilizer light, backlights, but no tach, no speedo, and no odo... Ran ODB2, and got this code: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0646 (P0646 - A/C Clutch Relay Control). Checked all the front fuses, in the front clam - all good. Found a melted fuse under the dash, replaced it, started the car back up, and reset the code. I got the code one more time, but after resetting it, we seem to be good, as it has not come back... so far...

So, here we are - I am sitting at the PC, with the display unit next to me on the desk, typing this novel. I managed to break one of those connectors on those two stupid wires that are hacked into the bus line... Brilliant - am going to work on fixing that now...

HELP? THOUGHTS? I feel like I'm digging a bigger hole for myself here.

I just ordered a GARW because I saw they were shipping in Nov, and I always wanted one, and this frustration made me think I might need one (maybe not), but I would love to keep my ODO legit!

Here's the Display/broken wire I broke: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmYsEuR3ioNzU59Q6

Brilliant engineering, hacking a wire into wires... ugh. What is that black box on the back the of display, anyhow?
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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After you fix the broken connection(s), pull the negative battery terminal and step on the brake pedal for 5 seconds. Reconnect and check.

If you still have the issue, with the driver's door open, turn the ignition on. Turn the ignition off. Press and hold the trip meter reset button. Turn the ignition on. Wait about 5 seconds and turn the ignition off. Release the trip meter reset button. Turn the ignition on. The service light should come on and then go off after 4 seconds. Good luck.

San
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Alright, so here's where we're at: I did all that, and still no luck. I'm going to take apart this unit now, and reflow some connections, but if you have anymore ideas, I'm all ears. Does the bus have any kind of a fuse associated with it, somewhere in the car?

Edit: Well, FANTASTIC. Good thing I ordered the GARW, because this thing is shot now. I don't know what kind of gymnastics you have to do to put the needles back in this thing, but it's looking ridiculous me to me. I'm guessing you have to tear off the front plastic somehow. Anyhow, whatever... I just need to get the odo off this thing, but maybe we're beyond the point of no return now... 46k was where we were at...

Edit 2: I got the display unit back together, but needles are sticking straight up - whatever. Plugged it back in, and turned on the car - no dice.

Still out of ideas...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks - I ordered a GARW. Good timing that they are releasing a shipment next month; HOWEVER, I am reading through the forum, and realizing that it lacks any semblance of support, and has had its share of issues. Also, this means I lose my odometer. I don't know how much that will alter the vehicle value at 46k miles, but it's stressing me out as this is yet another issue that has arisen from this vehicle (I have less than 2000 miles, and this car has seen more days grounded/in the shop than it has seen the streets).

This car has been a cash dump for sure, but I still love it, and have little to no intent of selling in the foreseeable future.
 

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Thanks - I ordered a GARW. Good timing that they are releasing a shipment next month; HOWEVER, I am reading through the forum, and realizing that it lacks any semblance of support, and has had its share of issues. Also, this means I lose my odometer. I don't know how much that will alter the vehicle value at 46k miles, but it's stressing me out as this is yet another issue that has arisen from this vehicle (I have less than 2000 miles, and this car has seen more days grounded/in the shop than it has seen the streets).

This car has been a cash dump for sure, but I still love it, and have little to no intent of selling in the foreseeable future.
You will not loose your odometer. You have to set what you want the starting value to be is all.

Later,
Eldon
 

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As Eldon said, you can set the miles to what you want on the GARW. So be sure to take a picture of your mileage before unplugging. One thing to note, mileage will no longer update to your stock dash so it would be difficult to revert back as there would be a mileage discrepancy. In the event you sell the car, take lots of pictures for the next owner so they can see the difference, or just leave the GARW for them. Good luck
 
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