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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For a short time I've been driving my RX8 because my Evora needed new pads. So now that I've done the brake job I'm back in my Evora schlepping to work every day. And after driving the RX-8, I'm always reminded of how much heavier the clutch is on my Evora. About twice as much force is needed, which has always been the norm. But this time it seems much heavier. So something must have happened in the last 24 hours since I last drove it? or I simply just haven't noticed this until now. Anyway, my clutch is slipping. :(

So the question I have are:
1. Why did the clutch pedal get much harder to press all of a sudden? some additional observations:
-The clutch seems to be slipping on hard acceleration.
-The catch point seems to have moved near the top of the clutch throw.

2. Are one of my clutch discs worn or is this a problem with one of the cylinders?

3. Can this be corrected with an adjustment? More to the point, is this DIYable?

If some one with experience provide insight into what might be going on I'd appreciate it.

Oh and in case you're all wondering, this clutch has somewhere between 30 and 40k miles on it.
 

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:popcorn::cool:
 

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Would seem to be an issue with the throw out bearing, in other words likely hard to fix w/o engine out.
 

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Take it out to a small hill and shift into 6th gear; if it revs while trying to move up the hill then it is slipping and likely needs replacement.

So many possibilities. Have you changed the clutch fluid?
 

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agreed...lots of possibilities. My bearing was binding completely when it failed and I couldn't go into gear at all, but the pedal would move (was binding with the plate pressed to the flywheel).

If it is still semi-operable, see about changing fluid. If it doesn't help, probably a trans out look at what is going on.

Wear isn't likely the issue...the discs seem to be pretty well built to last a long time
 

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I vaguely remember someone saying the Las Vegas Lotus dealership (Courtesy Lotus) could repair it for an economical price. Sorry, I've forgotten the details. You could also we what VSA would charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My transmission fluid was replaced last year.

I'm going to have to nurse the clutch until I can get a proper diagnosis by a tech.

I'll have to give Harix a call.
 

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:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
good news. my clutch is okay.

My clutch has returned to normal after cooling down.. To clarify, the clutch pedal gets stiffer as the car warms up during the drive. The engage point moves up as well (ie shorter pedal travel).

Anyone wanna guess what the problem is?
 

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What about the slipping on hard acceleration?
 

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Unless it's complete toast, the clutch will not slip under hard acceleration in low gears. You need to be in high gears and under load (e.g., going up hill) to pick up incipient slippage.
BTW, the clutch is self-adjusting so there should be no change in pedal engagement position as the disc wears.
 

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good news. my clutch is okay.

My clutch has returned to normal after cooling down.. To clarify, the clutch pedal gets stiffer as the car warms up during the drive. The engage point moves up as well (ie shorter pedal travel).

Anyone wanna guess what the problem is?
You had a leg cramp.
 

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.....Or your blood sugar was low. :)
 

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Could be a sign of bubbles in the lines, first step would be to bleed the system. A bit of a pain to access the slave cylinder, but a very minor job.
 

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Have you had the master cylinder TSB done along with the heat shield for the line (someone clarify which TSBs for me please as I'm forgetful in my not-so-old age)? Those symptoms sounds awful lot like mine before the TSB was done.

good news. my clutch is okay.

My clutch has returned to normal after cooling down.. To clarify, the clutch pedal gets stiffer as the car warms up during the drive. The engage point moves up as well (ie shorter pedal travel).

Anyone wanna guess what the problem is?
 

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Squid, all you need is a thorough flush with a higher boiling point fluid. The manual says this needs to be done every 18K or once every two years. I'm basically doing it almost once a year. If you look at the extreme heat the slave is exposed to (sits essentially adjacent to the exhaust manifold), it's no wonder Evoras have boiling issues, heat wrap solutions issued, etc. Oh, and by the way, you are like me. You actually drive the thing everyday. Stop and go traffic in LA, not exactly the best environment for heat dissipation under the car further supporting you probably just need new hydraulic fluid.
 

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Exectly why I was munching popcorn. Bleed that sucker. See my post about the Speed Bleeder to make it easy!
 
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