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Discussion Starter #1
So I got the squeal, and it came and went for 6 months and then finally stuck.

Dealership quoted $4K+ and they wanted to replace the complete bracket assy. ($1800). That, plus the down time (weeks) steered me into just doing it myself and overhauling the roller assy while replacing the idler pulleys and tensioner assy.

Unless you are a shop or a pretty advanced mechanic (lot's of slim tools, jacks, lift) you could dig yourself into a huge hole.

For starters, the motor needed to be raised, and the aft upper support needs to be removed. Removing the clam might have saved time, but i managed without.

In the end, It was the lower aft pulley that was spun in the race... SO yeah bad lotus machined part which is zero stock. They never intended for anyone to make this repair without a clam off motor removal, because the bolt usage is beyond retarded.

Anyhow, just fyi. Took approx 10hrs for everything in my driveway. Not fun. And as mechanics go... i'm not an apprentice.
 

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2013 Lotus Evora IPS - Carbon Gray
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Do you feel this was related to the fact that car is an S or would this potentially happen on all cars? Just don’t know if the S is more prone to a failure; I don’t know if the idler or tensioner is any different between the two. I’m around 34k miles in my N/A and have never heard a squeak.
 

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Experiencing the squeals myself at the moment. My 2011 S is going to an indy shop Tuesday for a new belt, tensioner, and possible idler pulleys. Fingers crossed it's nothing more serious. I'll check back in late this week....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do you feel this was related to the fact that car is an S or would this potentially happen on all cars? Just don’t know if the S is more prone to a failure; I don’t know if the idler or tensioner is any different between the two. I’m around 34k miles in my N/A and have never heard a squeak.
The tensioner and 2 idler pulleys are the same between the N/A and S motors. In my case, the issue was with one of the supercharger idlers of which there a 4 additional to the n/a. The job would be much more reasonable on an N/A motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Experiencing the squeals myself at the moment. My 2011 S is going to an indy shop Tuesday for a new belt, tensioner, and possible idler pulleys. Fingers crossed it's nothing more serious. I'll check back in late this week....
Once in there, you have to keep going until you find the bad bearing...doing all that work only to find out it is one of the 4 would suck, as the work would need to all be done again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I cannot stress enough how this design is absolute trash. Even the tensioner removal is retarded, clowns assembled my motor with the A/C hoses running parallel to the ground... So they needed to be rotated... not an easy feat through the firewall cut out which could have been 45% larger... but you know, they are lotus... total clowns, zero Motorsport applications here.
 

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Yea. I will be sure to instruct the shop to dig until the squealing culprit is found. I do have a 3rd party extended warranty, which would cover all but the belt (I hope).... gulp.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea. I will be sure to instruct the shop to dig until the squealing culprit is found. I do have a 3rd party extended warranty, which would cover all but the belt (I hope).... gulp.....
Good Luck. Everyone just assumes tensioner... Unless they hand you a shot bearing, just replace/overhaul all 7 pulleys.
 

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Do you feel this was related to the fact that car is an S or would this potentially happen on all cars? Just don’t know if the S is more prone to a failure; I don’t know if the idler or tensioner is any different between the two. I’m around 34k miles in my N/A and have never heard a squeak.
You have to be very careful when you change the oil as the fill cap is right near the S/C belt and pulley, one drop and you are done...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You have to be very careful when you change the oil as the fill cap is right near the S/C belt and pulley, one drop and you are done...
You talking about the cap or just oil? Both seem easy issues to solve to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh, and rear support bar upper bolt.. yeah lets not use a self guiding bolt... cause then we can charge them for the headliner removal to adjust the cross bar. (you can actually just use a long screwdriver and someone with strength).
It's basically a bolt in roll cage... and anyone who has fitted one can tell you the last piece can be hell if the rest is all tight. so yeah, let use a standard bolt in a recessed fitting.
 

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i am both glad and sorry that I saw this today. my 2014 S started squeaking and I drove home 10 minutes later which was about 2 miles. by the time I gently parked in my drive way the supercharger belt was smoking. I turned the car off, no warning lights or heat warning temps. by the time I raised the rear hatch the belt snapped. The car was taken to lotus in nashville. I will not get a report until tomorrow due to the shift rotation thanks to CoVid 19. I didn't not need to see a $4000 quote but at least I can brace myself for the biggest expense since owning this car. QUESTION - should anyone of us consider the upgrade parts from Monkey wrench or am I way off on what may be needed????
 

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If the belt was smoking and snapped, chances are one or more of the various pulleys and/or accessories has frozen up, causing excessive rubbing to the point of weakening the belt. Depending on which spinny thing isn't working right will determine the cost. It shouldn't be too pricey, unless it's the supercharger itself that is frozen.
 

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I
If the belt was smoking and snapped, chances are one or more of the various pulleys and/or accessories has frozen up, causing excessive rubbing to the point of weakening the belt. Depending on which spinny thing isn't working right will determine the cost. It shouldn't be too pricey, unless it's the supercharger itself that is frozen.
don’t want to even think about the Supercharger being ruined. Oh my dark thought 😒
 
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