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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
about 5 hours. I took my time. (No kidding - but i used my foam gun to wash the diffuser & both sides of the undertray.) Had to use the jack helper (finally) worked GREAT! Turns out my new Rhino ramps are rated for 16,000 pounds - so I felt safe under the car.
The one thing I found that I wasn't too thrilled about was a nick/gouge on the very inside of the sandwich plate, with a burr that rose well above the flat machined surface. Then I realized that the oil filter rubber seal contacted the plate well out side the inner area , so it wasn't a factor, but someone had messed it up a little at one point. Honestly it wasn't bad, but it wasn't perfect, so I was surprised. Next time it will go quicker - thanks to all those who helped. I've got to go start her up now & fine tune the oil level - I noticed when I drained a tiny bit of foam, (I mean tiny - 4 sq inches floating on top of 4.5 qts +/-the last guy had overfilled by a little.
If you have to be off on the amount - is it better to be 8 oz. light, or 8 oz. over?
 

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Every time I've changed the oil and filter it has taken almost exactly 4.75 qts. That generally puts it with 3mm of the upper dot on the dipstick.
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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Discussion Starter #3
i've got 4.5 in there now - i'll check tomorrow.
 

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Which oil did you go with? I'm wondering how good the Mobil 1 would be compared to other synthetics. I'm hoping to meet up with you at some point this summer. I'm signed up for the June 4th. SCDA High Performance Driver Education at NHMS. Have you ever participated in one of these events? Great fun, outstanding instructors and plenty of track time in a safe environment. Here is a link: Sports Car Driving Association - Performance Driving in a Safe and Controlled Environment
Ian Prout and his family, including his father Bill (raced with Mario Andretti and was head of Skip Barber) run these events.
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Castrol - 5-40 Edge synthetic - says "approved for BMW, Mercedes", etc. It's currently on sale thru the end of the month, with a good filter included for $33 at Advance Auto Parts. (I'm going back today for 2 more changes worth, and to pick up some Redline 90 for the tranny.) Advance Auto Parts is a GREAT store up here. I cannot say enough good things about them.
The only Mobil 1 I could find was that 5-40 "turbo diesel " stuff at Walmart, and I heard that is supposed to shorten the life of the catalytic converter on cars. So I steered clear. All that was available to me locally was some Royal Purple ( $14/ quart - yikes) or the Castrol on sale.
I've never done driver ed, but lord knows i could use some. My real pleasure in the Elise isn't track related, it's driving the back roads of NH. That said, Club Motorsport is opening a huge track up here, 1 town over from me in Tamworth, NH. They need to get a wetlands waiver and they are in. It's supposed to be a fantastic track - so if it is that close & convenient - I'll probably end up trying it out.
I promised Keeper I would participate in some our New England activities when I get back from BOE next month, a get together/drive or car/coffee sort of thing. It will be fun to meet some other Lotus nuts.
 

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The only Mobil 1 I could find was that 5-40 "turbo diesel " stuff at Walmart, and I heard that is supposed to shorten the life of the catalytic converter on cars. So I steered clear.
For flat tappet engines like the 1.8L Toyota engine in our cars, you want high amounts of zinc in your oil. Most modern oils are produced with low amounts of zinc (less than 1,000 PPM) which help keep catalytic converters alive but kill flat tappet camshafts. The M1 5-40 Turbodiesel oil has 1,200 PPM of zinc, and is one of the better oils for the 1.8L Toyota engine. Cats are cheaper to replace than engines.

For reference, see below:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
 

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Closer than you think
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Good job!

...I hope you didn't forget to replace the muffler bearings while you were under there...
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
For flat tappet engines like the 1.8L Toyota engine in our cars, you want high amounts of zinc in your oil. Most modern oils are produced with low amounts of zinc (less than 1,000 PPM) which help keep catalytic converters alive but kill flat tappet camshafts. The M1 5-40 Turbodiesel oil has 1,200 PPM of zinc, and is one of the better oils for the 1.8L Toyota engine. Cats are cheaper to replace than engines.

For reference, see below:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Cool - so we have a cheap , good oil. Walmart here I come.
 

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Good job... the lifting the car and making sure it was stable was the most scary for me. Next time you'll feel alot better at it and the underpanel will be much easier to take off. Easy smeezy from now on. These guys make being a Do It Yourselfer mush easier and safer. ....:D
 

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For flat tappet engines like the 1.8L Toyota engine in our cars, you want high amounts of zinc in your oil. Most modern oils are produced with low amounts of zinc (less than 1,000 PPM) which help keep catalytic converters alive but kill flat tappet camshafts. The M1 5-40 Turbodiesel oil has 1,200 PPM of zinc, and is one of the better oils for the 1.8L Toyota engine. Cats are cheaper to replace than engines.

For reference, see below:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Yep. I just did an oil change on the Exige. I only use Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo diesel with the larger Mobil 1 filter. The old Mobil 1 oil coming out of the engine was pretty clean. I don't use anything else.
 

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Nein Kinder
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1,568 Posts
.
If you have to be off on the amount - is it better to be 8 oz. light, or 8 oz. over?
Definitely don't overfill. On many engines, that can lead to a leaking main (crankshaft) seal. At the other extreme, keep it between the high and low marks...

Glen
 

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Vendor
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Definitely don't overfill. On many engines, that can lead to a leaking main (crankshaft) seal. At the other extreme, keep it between the high and low marks...

Glen
^ That's a bit of wisdom is from the days of running rope seals on the mains. Doesn't apply to the 2ZZ-GE, FWIW...

Mobil 1 diesel oil is a decent street oil and its ZDDP ppm are not high enough to shorten the life of your catalysts much...


Cheers,

Phil
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yup - I bet the supercharger kills it before the Mobil 1 will. :)
Actually, I have no idea if that is true, but it sounded good.
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yep. I just did an oil change on the Exige. I only use Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo diesel with the larger Mobil 1 filter. The old Mobil 1 oil coming out of the engine was pretty clean. I don't use anything else.
what are your intervals? I pushed this one to the 7500 mile limit, the oil that came out looked used, but not horrible. I'm figuring when I get the s/c in there i might need to drop the intervals to 5000 miles. I accidentally screwed up and bought my first filters from MWR when i ordered my rear lift point kit, and they sent the itty bitty K&N filter, not the 2009. So I have the small filter on. The good news is that it only has to make it about 1500 miles to Phil's. Then we are going to "redecorate" the oil circulatory system. :clap:
 

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If you dont already have one, and dont have or want 1/4 turn fasteners, buy one of those tiny "pocket drivers" for all the screws in the undertray. Look for one with a slipper clutch.

It really speeds things up and takes out some of the tedium.
 

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what are your intervals? I pushed this one to the 7500 mile limit, the oil that came out looked used, but not horrible. I'm figuring when I get the s/c in there i might need to drop the intervals to 5000 miles. I accidentally screwed up and bought my first filters from MWR when i ordered my rear lift point kit, and they sent the itty bitty K&N filter, not the 2009. So I have the small filter on. The good news is that it only has to make it about 1500 miles to Phil's. Then we are going to "redecorate" the oil circulatory system. :clap:
When I first got the car and was getting dealer oil changes, I had it done every 3k. Now that I do it myself, I do it every 5k. The biggest pain is taking the under tray off. After that, it's a breeze.
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
When I first got the car and was getting dealer oil changes, I had it done every 3k. Now that I do it myself, I do it every 5k. The biggest pain is taking the under tray off. After that, it's a breeze.
yup -i'll be at 5k from here out unless the supercharger install means i should be at 3k.
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
If you dont already have one, and dont have or want 1/4 turn fasteners, buy one of those tiny "pocket drivers" for all the screws in the undertray. Look for one with a slipper clutch.

It really speeds things up and takes out some of the tedium.
I'd love a good 1/4 turn kit. Are they all created equally? All the same difficulty to install & tightness?
 

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Nein Kinder
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1,568 Posts
Definitely don't overfill. On many engines, that can lead to a leaking main ...
^ That's a bit of wisdom is from the days of running rope seals on the mains. Doesn't apply to the 2ZZ-GE, FWIW...
Holy cow, I'm not that old! My Porsche and VW are both about 20 years old (I'm the original owner of both) - no rope seals - and both manufacturers caution in the workshop manuals that overfilling the oil can blow the main seals. But I'll happily take your experience with this engine over another manufacturer's caution. Maybe *their* engineers were that old ?

Glen
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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3,349 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
If you dont already have one, and dont have or want 1/4 turn fasteners, buy one of those tiny "pocket drivers" for all the screws in the undertray. Look for one with a slipper clutch.

It really speeds things up and takes out some of the tedium.
Absolutely.
 
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