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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car arrived today a couple of hours ago.
The former owner and I had a great talk and I received a education.

He had quite an adventure going through the mountains and passes which some were closed just a couple of days ago.
Big balls on this guy.
Took him over 12 hours!

He started it up and backed off the trailer and drove it right into the Garage.
Man. Very nice Machine.
Was a shame though that it was dirty but I didn't dare ask him to drive the jeep sans trailer/lotus to the carwash.
Honestly, it looks better than I imagined. But it's dirty.
Upon startup you can hear a whooring noise in the rear of the car. This is due to the vacuum pump either not hooked up or toast. (hope so)
Windows are very slow.
No heat inside the cockpit.
Speaking of cock pit it fits me just fine, though my hair just touches the headliner.
Interior is really nice but needs a cleaning.
Car starts right up. I was just in the garage playing. Takes a bit to warmup.
Not sure if the boost gage works. No backlight.
It is a really sweet looker.
I'd be outside right now in a lawn chair gawking at it but it's too cold.
I like the wheels.
But it's dirty!

Strange feeling that I have this no-nonsense machine in my Garage.:D
 

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Congratulations! :clap: I'm surprised that he made it through the pass with all of the avalanche issues in the past week. Glad to hear that everything turned out well in the end finally.

Can't wait to see pics. Even "dirty" pics. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks OnAir.
The "OWNERS HANDBOOK" isn't very thorough is it?
 

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As an FYI.. when you want heat it is probably not the knob settings or results you are used to from other cars..

Turn left most knob to RED
Turn right most knob to vertical
Turn knob second from right to far left

Turn off the vents in dash

Heat ONLY comes out the floor vents.. Yeah, weird..
 

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Congrats, I had the same feeling when I got mine in the garage. Kept going out to look at it, then back in get a beer, then back out.

This is the day I got it home. Crappy cel pic. :D




Now go take some photos of the car! Dirty if you have to! LOL
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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Congrats Mike!

The vaccum pump will be noisy if there is a large vacuum leak. If indeed your heat doesn't work (defrost or floor only) check the vacuum connections under the dash. Start a new Topic if you need help.

If everything works but the pump is just noisy (common) put a small fuel filter on the end of the outlet hose (near the LR control arm) to quiet it down.
 

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WOW...CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
One thing is for sure, Esprit ownership is never boring...this is the beginning of a great adventure and you already have quite a story on what it took to get an Esprit...LOL

So happy for you!

Roy

P.S. Looking forward to pictures!
 

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Avalanche issues?
-eek- :crazyeyes :panic:

Now I understand the delay in delivery...that must have been quite a drive with trailer in tow. :bow:

Hoping that the spring and good weather comes especially fast for you this year so that you can:

:shift:
 

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Congrats Mike!

The vaccum pump will be noisy if there is a large vacuum leak. If indeed your heat doesn't work (defrost or floor only) check the vacuum connections under the dash. Start a new Topic if you need help.

If everything works but the pump is just noisy (common) put a small fuel filter on the end of the outlet hose (near the LR control arm) to quiet it down.
Ummm, just a thought, but if the vacuum pump is toast or the hose is off wouldn't that stop the heater flaps from operating under the dash :shrug: Glad she made it to her new home, now the fun begins. If it does need a new vacuum pump they are easily sourced and not expensive.
 

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Cal H
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Upon startup you can hear a whooring noise in the rear of the car. This is due to the vacuum pump either not hooked up or toast. (hope so)
Windows are very slow.
No heat inside the cockpit.
Glad that everything went well and you have the car. Now the adventure begins LOL.

You need vacuum to make the heat or A/C work on the pre servo controlled HVAC system. This is primarily for Stevens body 4 cyl but the same controls and devices could exist in earlier G body cars.

Parts of this is from my original post in 2002 on another site.

Okay I will try and explain the heater controls and function.

Operational HVAC Description

The right knob
It controls the air distribution. It controls a series of flaps to divert air to the correct vents. Full clockwise of this knob will recirculate cabin air this is handy if going for max A/C cooling. As you move this knob closer to the 1 o'clock position the external air flap opens until full outside air is drawn in. These positions are used in the A/C mode or for straight cabin air exchange and air is directed through all dash vents. As you move the knob to the 11 o'clock position the flaps will close the two dash vents closest to the center backbone, re-route the air flow through the heater core instead of A/C evaporator and the air flow will be diverted to the foot wells and a touch to the front windscreen vents. as you turn the knob towards full counter clockwise more of the air flow will be diverted from the foot wells to the windscreen till all of the air flow is directed to the windscreen defroster.

The right knob is connected to a control cam that rotates to press down on two plungers on air valves that the vacuum lines are attached to with a variety of T's and rubber elbows. The air valves are behind the right side of the radio pod mounted with 2 saddle clamps. The left air valve by regulating the amount of vacuum, controls air intake flap actuator mounted on the blower box under the front bonnet. The right air valve controls the mode flap actuator that diverts air through either the heater core or A/C evaporator and also enables/disables the two vents closest the backbone. A steel rod connected to the cam controls the air flow between the foot well plastic tube ducts and the windscreen vents. The two outside dash vents should be closed off with the thumb wheels when heating or defrosting as they continue to pump cold air as they bypass the heater core. At no time will they ever pump warm air. It is not necessary to close off the two center dash vents with the thumb wheels as when the heat is on they will be automatically closed.

Problem areas

Bad blower unit. service or replace

Cable going to water control valve to heater core sometimes breaks or falls off. Or the valve itself gets worn and broken. cable runs by drivers side foot well.

Sometimes the very small hard black plastic vac lines from the pump get disconnected from the push on fittings, T's and valves through vibration or rooting around the wiring harness or stereo pod area. At no time should one ever blow into or apply positive pressure to these vac lines or you will pop off the very loose push on T and fittings behind the dash as I suppose they were never meant for positive pressure so just held in place without clamps or mechanical fasteners. Don't ask why I know such a thing, after all what person would do something that dumb to see if a vac line is clear by blowing into them LOL.

Sometimes the actuator valves wears out or leaks and need to be replaced. Or more likely they could have worked loose from the saddle clamps and have dropped too low in the clamps for the rotating cams to push the plunger down far enough. A deviation of 1/8 to 1/16" in the clamp may alter the function of the valves. Easy to check just push down the plunger with your finger and release while the car is on and you will hear the flaps working every time you push or release. Just adjust the valves up a bit in the clamps and it could be fixed. To access the valve location remove the stereo and/or central pod and you will see them. On non airbag cars, if you remove the glove box liner by removing the retaining screws carefully folding in the fiberboard liner a bit it can be removed. Once out you can see the valves on the left rear of the glove box opening.

Hope this helps as this is as detailed as it gets. Not a very good A/C or heater design but I don't think anyone looking
at car magazines as a youth said "One day I'm gonna get me one those cars with a really neat HVAC system".
 

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Be glad you have hair to hit the headliner!!!!

Congrats again Mike,

Brian
Congrat's on the new toy Mike, start doing facial excerises to relive the pain because you will have a :D from ear to ear.

Don't quote me on it but I think the plastic vacuum heater lines used rubber 'elbows' which break down, crack and produce leaks or just fall out of the elbow.

'Hair' what is that? :rolleyes:


Robert

:UK:
 

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I believe that the glass roof will give an 1" or so of clearance
It will , but it will also cost you a good chunk of change (if you can find one) plus you would also need to purchase the glass style seal which is higher than the composite style seal. Another route that many use that does not cost a dime is to remove the seat rails and bolt the seats directly to the floor, or just get a very short buzz cut rotfl

Colin
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Congrats Mike!

The vaccum pump will be noisy if there is a large vacuum leak. If indeed your heat doesn't work (defrost or floor only) check the vacuum connections under the dash. Start a new Topic if you need help.

If everything works but the pump is just noisy (common) put a small fuel filter on the end of the outlet hose (near the LR control arm) to quiet it down.
Hello.
This noise cannot be common-no way.
It is very obvious and sounds like a bubbles rising from a pump in a fishtank.
Embarrasing.
Ready to drill some holes in my muffler to overcome!
 
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