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The start of the 2022 SCCA Auto-X season.. AS and SS. Follow along or join!

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I'm not sure how much people like or bother to read my long post on getting my CO 05 Elise ready to run in SCCA AStreet so I'm starting this thread to update events, outcomes and where I hope to be this coming year on a "national" level.... for better or worse!! hahah

See my 'build"? thread here..

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First up for the 2022 season, I went to the Las Vegas tour and while the class was smaller than I hoped, I did very well and won. Pics and results.. AND verified "race weight"!!

I'm parked at the end , but taking the pic.. just the course to SKITLEs left.
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How much I weighed!
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The weekends outcome..

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Next up, I'll be running my 08 S240 at the Los Angeles ProSolo

Following that, Will be back in SKITLE to run AS at Crows Landing at months end with a "Special Guest Driver"!! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was tempted to head to Vegas, but work got in the way, gonna hit my first local event this coming Sunday - I did end up doing the evo driving school phase 1 - was a killer event
Would Love to see more out there! There was a red supercharged one on Hoosiers and a supercharger. They struggled with clean runs, etc. and I ended up running within a second of their overall time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm glad you and others seem to enjoy what I'm posting. My goal is several fold. Trying to get some people out to play in their cars and see what they are capable of AND requiring very little to be competitive and allows those that want to keep their cars very near to stock realize it can be left near that and still go fast. Once comfortable with the platform, on a local level, many can do REALLY well!.
I also want to get others to realize an Autocross is generally a safe place to push their cars without damage and/or feel what a spin in the car feels like.. safely. Next step after is what to change or adjust on the car or the driver to reduce that!!
Lastly, if I have found something that improves my lap time possibility, I hope to share it here.

Above all, the goal is to have fun!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It is a common complaint with SCCA. But a large amount of people with cars of ALL types like to modify their cars, THEN go racing and are not happy where their "little to them" mod ends up placing them. Often people don't realize on some cars what tiny mod on some cars gets some cars more benefit than others.

If you are looking for fairly stable classing based on years of data and what each car will benefit based on the "allowed changes" in each class, it is a good system. But the slippery slope many try to advance is "just this little change" should be allowed and ends up essentially becoming a "class for every car" organization (Porsche and BMW do this to a degree already)
Many SCCA regulars will often pick their next car on what class it will be in, but that is not common outside the club.

I personally like the courses, the site safety and a ruleset that I can plan on. I just decided stock/street class is best for me as it limits what I am allowed and I do that, then drive the piss out of it! I rarely am smart enough to acquire the "best car" to run a class! lol

YMMV
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just commenting to follow (and vent). Because of the "aftermarket" factory supercharger on mine I'm in SSM and nowhere near competitive :/

And when I had my Mini, because it was GP it was a "prepared" class and thus the same. My disdain for SCCA classing continues
I think SSP is also an option? I did very well in AStreet trim and was running similar in my AS Elise as the supercharged one on Hoosiers in SSP. (Compare to my above times)

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Joining in as well on this...I've had 3 three 'warm-up' events with the Evora, our local region has it's opening event of the season this Sunday. Car is prepped for A Street, cleaned, and ready to go.

Mike
Glad to have any participants Mike!

I was curious how the Evora GT classing ended up... I can't seem to find the FastTrack answer to the typo of Evora GT classing as it is listed in BOTH AS and SS!
Did they clarify? Are you just hoping it's AS? :censored: @donour what say you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
@6TVRs+ , think I met you very briefly at the Petersen meet (your SUPERBLU license plate was very cool, but the one with "18xxlbs" happened to catch my eye!). Good thread. I'd like to start autocrossing, only ever done it once before but not in the Evora. Will be following!
Come on out! At California Speedway all weekend!
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Great to hear you guys out there having a go at it!!
J.D, as you know, I fully support the bigger front bar! Same for you Mike, I'm a firm believer that these cars really benefit from about as much front bar on an Auto-X course as you can fit!

I definitely did not have a great weekend, but I was not overly surprised either as I ran the S240 in "all but" stock condition. Only lighter wheels and wider rear tires and a Larini muffler.
I ran a Pro Solo and I had a choice of the Elise in AS or my S240 in SS(S3). If not familiar with ProSolo it is effectively a Drag Race mixed with an AutoX. There is a Christmas tree start and then mirror courses.
Anyway, the Elise has a weak drivetrain/clutch but I have it working pretty decent on course. The S240 came stock with HD clutch/Pressure plate, launch control and LSD so I thought I would try it. Well, I could launch about as fast as the GT-3/GT-4s , but that was about it.. I couldn't stop or turn well..hah.. the attempts to stop the car were actually somewhat scary!
A bit of experiment, I think the front wheel/tire is a big handicap, but will try again some other time.

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Next up, SCCA Solo Tour at Crows Landing with a fast guest driver!

Keep it up folks!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Huh, I wonder if I am adjusting pressures wrong, I’m running more pressure up front (30 cold) and less rear (28~ish) - that was my attempt to calm down oversteer - I am VERY much a newbie when it comes to pressure tuning tho
I would drop to 26 up front.. here is a handy list..

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Tire pressures are a bit tricky.. you can go to extremes of pressure and get similar results. An old school way that still works is white shoe polish on the edges to see if you are wearing to the edge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
well ****, I thought lowering would increase grip back there, another event this weekend so I’ll swap it around and get the front down in the 20s and bump the rears to 30 to start and then adjust from there (next event is at a different lot so grip levels will be different)
Keep in mind, relative to tire size our cars are very light. I would start at 26/28

That chart is very handy, I wore the ones out I had.. Glad I found on the internet.. (Now I know to check this thread... lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Great stuff in here (y)

I swapped my old RE71s for new RT660's and installed BWRs street/track bar in time for sunday. weather was quite windy and in the 40s & lower 50s, RT660s still delivered even without getting much if any heat into them. After being in the pointy end in the morning I fell behind in the afternoon, line adjustments I made put me into the gravel that was blowing around & by the time i found the clean asphalt again and regained my rhythm all i could muster was matching my morning time. Was a tricky but fun day.

On my stock suspension and LSS wheels, the 215's rub in the usual front wheelwell liner/headlight surround spot, seem to be fine everywhere else though

I set the swaybar at the 2nd loosest setting, with tires at 28F 30R 'hot', & ended up with more understeer than i had expected compared to stock, car felt great powering out of corners and through slalom though, will take some more seat time to adjust my driving to match.

Planning on reducing rear toe to help even things out with the new bar, just have to double check if i'm at 1.5mm total or 3mm total currently. Possibly add some additional front toe out as well depending how things feels with the rear toe adjustment.

Have a lot of ground to cover with the new SST pax and talented drivers in our local class groupings, wish i could dial in some more front camber to help. Ended up pulling the trigger on a new shocks and springs to see if i can extract some additional potential and close the gap.

What kind of pressures are you guys running on RT660's? i used to run my RE71s on the low side, not sure where the RT660's are happiest yet.
I was just looking at the specs for those 215's (I assume 16") and I think too large and prone to rub like you said.

I will likely try the 205/16 flavor soon enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So, I didn't do too great in my S240 as I hoped, BUT I noticed in class that 4 of the top 6 PAX spots at this weekends Pro were SS cars!!! So, I think I was driving the crap out of the S240 as is, but the top was going SO FAST! I had really only put sticky tires on it, bigger in the rear and lighter wheels. Running on LSS suspension. I had HUGE problems trying to stop and I think the fronts are just too small for the speed on tap. As noted above, I will likely try the Azeni 660s 205/40/16 in front to try to get a bigger footprint up front. But that being said, I had maxed the front bar to tame the rear and it helped tremendously. Still lots of tail out, but manageable... all with a lot more power than SKITLE! But this weekend was more of an experiment than anything else.. Focus goes back to SKITLE for likely the rest of the year.

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PS- if you don't know PAX, it's a handicap system for class to in theory "level" the cars to where great drivers are at the top.. (assuming your car is prepped for it) If at a National event you are in top 25, you are doing really well (IIRC, I managed 17th on 2nd day at Vegas, 29th for weekend?)
Waaay down at 71st for Pro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
So, a general comment here.. I know I'm still rusty, but getting it back (managed 2nd in 3rd at Nationals in the past..blah, blah) Everyone needs seat time!
But now having driven this platform for 2 years, other than putting on a bigger front bar, I suggest a good 6 months of driving events where you will feel comfortable before making big changes. I might even say I had nearly a year of running before I felt I could easily know what to expect when pushing to the limit. (Assuming staying near stock) They really need more front bar to work at an autocross. I will FREELY admit that for the street or track it will be too much bar! (I can change the bar settings in 5-8 minutes of unhurried work.) The mid engine platform is prone to sidestep with fast maneuvers, off throttle, trail brake, etc. and the stiffer bar does a fantastic job of blunting that without a sacrifice in ride.

But there ya go.. worth just what you paid for it!! lol My .02 cents!
 
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The 215/45 while pinched on the 6.5 wheel, werent as badly pinched
as I thought they would be, previously had 205/45 with the re71s which i liked alot, unfortunately not offered with the RT660. The A052's have a 195/50, but stock is hard to come by at the moment and I understand they like camber as well.
The pinching bothers me much less than overall diameter. You have the same diameter as OEM, the 195/45 are shorter and keeps the rake. the tread width is the same on 205 and 215 (I peruse the TireRack specs page religously before I buy) and the 205s are 3 pounds lighter per tire.

Stiffening up the bar will help.

Love your cars color!
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
The 215/45/16 RT660 is the front I'm running as well. Rubbed a little first event, put the BWR front bar on and had zero rub on my second event. Running a 235/45/17 in rear which gives a pretty similar stagger as OEM just wider.
I have been regularly running the 245/40/17 and love it. No rubbing, shorter to gain gearing and wider. Helps tailout and acceleration.
Recently tried the 255/40/17 and surprised it had little rubbing, mostly at the front center end of the liner, I can only guess from lean.. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
We put on the BWR stiffer bar on as our first suspension mod but are still on the lowest setting since increasing it made it too loose in the rear, almost undrivable.

We corner weight the car but something we discovered about 2 years ago is that for some reason the car handles much better with a 15 mm higher rear compared to the front. When the shock settings, tire pressures, and ride height are just right, the car does the most beautiful four wheel drifts I have ever experienced. Then we go to a new event site and have to start adjusting again.
Your findings on the front sway bar are interesting as that is the opposite of norm. Almost like the understeer increased requiring more steering input and then lift throttle brings rapid tailout.. :unsure:

The rake you mention is something that helps in many ways in our cars and I would believe a good reason why rake was designed in in the first place. Never could figure out why people wanted to run a "square" set-up on Eliges..
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
It seems to me that most of this chart is accurate, but the pressures are backwards? To DECREASE oversteer, we want less pressure in the rear, thus giving more patch/section on the ground, thus giving more grip, thus giving more traction on exit. Right?
I was always taught to run lowest pressure you can get away with, without damaging the tire, or rolling over on the tire edge.
Can someone explain to me exactly how, on a RWD car, increasing rear pressure helps an oversteer problem?
I'm always looking to learn more and get smarter about this stuff...that's why I'm asking.
Thanks!
Mike
I kind of alluded to this at the bottom of my post. Going very high or very low will yield similar results. As others noted above, try to get optimum patch, but it is a "teeny" fine tuning tool. Bars, springs, and shocks are larger tools.

Years ago I ran a stock Honda 'wagon" quite successfully on a National scale.. the general accepted way to get some rotation/oversteer was to run low pressure in the rear. The "change" to oversteer was too sudden I found. We actually ran the rear tires well over 20 PSI HIGHER than most, but the rotation then became smooth and predictable versus sudden.
Now "less work" is done being done at the rear of a FWD Honda wagon than our cars, but lets you know lots of stuff can make changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
so had another event yesterday and had a weird situation - my fuel level sender kind of got a little out of wack and thought that my tank was completely empty - to the point it turned on the light, even though I had about half a tank of gas left. I wasnt aware at the time and thought I had just ran through that much gas, so I was in lick the stamp and send it mode, but after parking after the run I shut the car down and when I restarted it, it seemed to clear the senders mixup.

is this indication that was I was getting to the point of potential fuel starve? the course did consist of multiple fast/high grip left handers

@6TVRs+ I know you fought a ton with fueling in your quest for autocross glory - this all sounding familiar - I for some reason thought that having an 07 model that I might have gotten lucky with the redesigned tank, but maybe I missed the cutoff.
Sadly, I have not had a chance to see the 06 and later tanks inside, so despite reports that the later cars "fixed it", I cannot provide first hand observations. Your description sorta sounds like loose sealant getting caught at the intake.

Weird part is my issues never showed a low tank and even with 3/4 tank would starve on long high G lefts.
 
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