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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
On Friday, I meet with LCUSA's field service manager when I picked up my car from service at Princeton. We had a very good discussion about a number of things. Here are a few highlights before I get to the details of the ECU download:

- The Elise, like all cars, is road tested before it leave the factory. i.e. red line runs, etc.

- Engine idle is a learned ECU behavior. The car needs to cycle through several normal driving situations and sit and idle afterwards. It wasn't clear how long the car needs to sit and idle, but he mentioned that there would be a communication to dealers on this shortly.

- Not unlike Honda's, the interior plastics of the Elise release a lot of harmless gas. This normal manufacturing byproduct will make the glass appear dirty. You just have the clean the glass a little more frequently than normal with a new car. Regular glass cleaner works fine.

- Headlights are aligned at the factory (and checked during PDI) assuming that there is 110 lbs (full trunk) of weight in the rear. Obviously, with nothing in there, the headlights appear to be aimed low. I had my head lights adjusted to top of spec.

Now to the good stuff! As with any manufacturer, LCUSA captures general data about how the car is driven. The purpose of which is to assist with the diagnosis of problems, not be a watch dog of how you enjoy your car. He said, "This is a real performance car, and we want and expect it to be driven hard". But in cases of extreme abuse, the data that is captured is very telling in how the car was driven. Now for the details:

***All time is recorded as hours:minutes:seconds

Throttle Position - recorded as a TOTAL time spent within a fixed percentage of WOT.

0 - 1.5%
1.5 - 15
15 - 25
25 - 35
35 - 50
50 - 65
65 - 80
80 - 100

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Engine Speed - recorded as a TOTAL time spent within a fixed range.

500 - 1500 RPM
1500 - 2500
2500 - 3500
3500 - 4500
4500 - 5500
5500 - 6500
6500 - 7000
7000 - 7500

***interesting how nothing is recorded above, 7500 RPM. I wonder if this is recorded in the 7000 - 7500 segment.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Wheel Speed - recorded as TOTAL time spent within a fixed range.

0 - 30 KMH -----> 0 - 18.64 MPH
30 - 60 -----> 18.64 - 37.28
60 - 90 -----> 37.28 - 55.92
90 - 120 -----> 55.92 - 74.56
120 - 150 -----> 74.56 - 93.21
150 - 180 -----> 93.21 - 111.80
180 - 210 -----> 111.8 - 130.5
210 - 240 -----> 130.5 - 149.1

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

MAP - something regarding manifold pressure. I had no reading here so I'm going to skip it. Obviously a FI modded car would have readings here. It is measured in KPA by the way.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Coolant Temp - recorded as TOTAL time spent within a fixed range

105 - 110 Deg C -----> 221 - 230 Deg F
110 - 115 -----> 230 - 239
115 - 120 -----> 239 - 248
> 120 -----> 248

*** clearly, the take away here is to keep you eyes on things. My running thus far has not produced temps above 187 Deg F. If your Elise gets into these high ranges, take it easy and let the car cool down.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Oil Temp - recorded as TOTAL time spent within a fixed range

140 - 145 Deg C-----> 248 - 293 Deg F
145 - 150 -----> 293 - 302
150 - 155 -----> 302 - 311
> 155 -----> 311

***as with coolant temp, if things get hot, take it easy.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Max Engine Speed - recorded as the 5 highest occurances. As a new high is reached, the lowest is dropped. When the high is recorded, the following is also recorded:

Engine Speed
Coolant Temp Deg C
Oil Temp Deg C
Max RPM Engine Hours

***as I mentioned above, the car is tested at the factory. My highest reading is 7924 RPM with only 46 min on the engine.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Performance Data Section- records the series performance data

Max Vehicle Speeds - records the top 5 maximum vehicle speeds. Again, as a new high is reached, the lowest is dropped

Fastest 0 - 100 KMH (0 - 62.14 MPH)

Fastest 0 - 160 KMH (0 - 99.42 MPH)

Last 0 - 100 KMH

Last 0 - 160 KMH

Total Engine Running Life - recorded as Total time

Number of Standing Starts - ???


***unfortunately, my print out runs out just after the standing starts heading, so I'm not sure what is recorded. However, given the title, I'm going to assume that it's just a number. The real question is how it a standing start defined. . . . . . . . .?

I'll take a few pics of the printout shortly. But I'm tired. . . .this will go down in history as my longest and greatest post. Gonna go grab a bite.


Edited to add Temp conversion.
 

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Does it download your pulse through sensors in the seat. :)

Great info and thanks for posting it. They'll get a pretty good handle on "abuse" with all this data.

I assume there is no oil temp gauge. Is there a H2O temp gauge? I assume that is part of the LCD info, but is it always on and what does it show (actual temp in deg or just in a band?)

The MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) reading is very similar to the throttle position - high vacuum is small throttle opening. kPa is a pressure reading. IIRC 100 kPa is 1 atmoshpere. If there is no reading, they are not recording it. You would have a reading without FI, it would just be blelow atmospheric pressure.

Good question on how to identify a standing start. One way I can think of is identify anytime the revis are above some fixed RPM (3000, 4000) and the wheel speed is zero. Of course you need to exclude when RPMs are raised say by blipping a throttle without dropping the clutch.

So the take away is don't spend too much time at high RPM or throttle opening, don't do standing starts while the car is new (never a great idea anyway) and be easy on the car until the temperatures are up to operating temperature (very important).
 

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And what a great post that was, Tech! Thank you very much for all the info. It is truly appreciated!

I now have almost zero concerns about my warantty. Most of my time is below 70 MPH, below 4K RPM, and almost no time past 1/2 throttle. No standing starts, and time above 7K has to be 45 seconds or less.

Whew.

My engine temp routinely runs 189-190 degrees, however.

THANKS AGAIN!
 

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Surf,
My car had it's thousand mile service, unfortunately a storm the night before killled the printer so they couldn't print a copy. Unless your running obscenely high speeds for looooooooong periods of time, I can see no problem with warranty issues.

Ex, Correct the car has a water temp gauge below the fuel level.

I've encountered absolutely no overheating issues even stuck in rush hour with a/c on.
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just added a Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion. I've had no temp issues at all. Not a good time to judge now since we are going through record low temps over here. The true test will come on a 100 Deg day after a long spirited run.
 

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On my Exige with a Lotus ECU the car is supposed to sit and idle for about 10 second before shutting it off. This apparently helps the ECU "learn" what is going on. So, I let it idle after coming in each session for about 10 seconds.

Sounds like the same thing with the Fed car.
 

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zvezdah1 said:


I've encountered absolutely no overheating issues even stuck in rush hour with a/c on.
Chris
Speaking of which, how is the AC?
 

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The cars are not road tested as they leave the factory they go into a rain booth to check for leaks and then to a dyno where they are run and checked/tested. The dyno test is thorough in that all the various parameters are tested and recorded.
 

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IN high 90s heat with the top on does a great job of cooling. Top down not super effective, but really don't see the need of using a/c with the top off.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #10
James A said:
The cars are not road tested as they leave the factory they go into a rain booth to check for leaks and then to a dyno where they are run and checked/tested. The dyno test is thorough in that all the various parameters are tested and recorded.
Maybe I misinterpreted that, but I'm pretty sure that's what I heard.
 

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I think the Best of British DVD even talked about them being track tested after assembly?
 

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MattG said:
I think the Best of British DVD even talked about them being track tested after assembly?
I only remember seeing that every car went on the dyno. But I think someone posted earlier about random cars going on the track.
 

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zvezdah1 said:
but really don't see the need of using a/c with the top off.

Chris
I agree. I never saw the effectiveness of this either. It's weird but seems kinda' wasteful. Might as well open all the doors and windows at your house with your A/C on full blast while your at it.:huh:
 

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huggy bear said:
I agree. I never saw the effectiveness of this either. It's weird but seems kinda' wasteful. Might as well open all the doors and windows at your house with your A/C on full blast while your at it.:huh:
While I agree in theory, in practice, anything that lets one use (any) convertible as frequently as possible with the top down/off is a good thing.

ed
 

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Chris-thanks for the update! Glad your checkup went well...mine is next Friday.

My A/C seems kind of weak, but I've only run it without the top. How often will I need the A/C? Pretty rarely.
 

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Surferjer said:
Chris-thanks for the update! Glad your checkup went well...mine is next Friday.

My A/C seems kind of weak, but I've only run it without the top. How often will I need the A/C? Pretty rarely.
I find that most new car ACs with R134 don't cool down as well as the old and environmentally BAD R12 systems. Small price to pay to keep the Earth healthy for our kids!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I found the AC works very well. It was a humid 84 deg or so and we had some morning cloud cover. I turned the AC on the coldest setting and lowest fan speed. Not even 4 min later, I had to turn the temp up. I think because of the ultra small cooling area (cabin), the AC is super efficient.
 

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I had a discussion about road tests with my dealer over here. He confirmed that they are NOT road tested and therefore the detailed running in process. One thing he did mention is that one should drive the car so that the revs are varied and that it is totally fine to go past the 6200 obviously not hitting max revs. He photocopied the instructions for me and we discussed certain running in situations.

I'll be using my car as my daily commute (105 miles each way..) which is mostly motorway and therefore running in will be part of the commute.. unless I can get the wife to agree to me dissappearing for a day or two to get 600 miles on the clock.. His suggestion was to leave and join each motorway exit ensuring that I did not sit at constant revs.

Milan

Build of my car starts tomorrow... can't wait...
 

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Congrats to you Milan,
It'll probably be tough to adhere to break in in your situation as they recommend varying speeds and gears the first 600, hard to do on motorway I'd think.
What color,options did you order?
Chris
 
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