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Discussion Starter #1
I am preparing for the first winter owning an 06 Elise (aka storage) but before I throw it under a cover in my garage I have a few items I want to address - namely the stock cooling system. I purchased a new Koyo radiator from GRP as well as new hoses just to swap them out while I'm in there. Because I will be flushing all the coolant anyways would it be wise to replace the thermostat as well? I already have a new metal thermostat and gasket on hand for when the OEM unit fails.

I also wanted to address the notorious U tube and cut it as seen in the boe supercharger instructions. Can that be done with the rear clam on?
For those unfamiliar page 10 here -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/qdpn9lflj5td5sw/RevInstall v4.pdf?dl=0

Thank you for any advice/comments!
 

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Yes, it is a good idea to change out the thermostat with a new all metal one since you are already half way there when you replace the radiator. I did it through the right wheel well, had to take out the alternator, which made it way easier.
To do the u-tube from the bottom or the side would be a gigantic pain in the neck, but can probably be done. The way to do that and the thermostat at the same time, is to take out the intake manifold, it is a very simple job, and it will make the other two that much easier as well.馃槃
 

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The U tube is really pretty easy from underneath the car - you're staring right at it.
Not if he want to do it the way he mentioned in the above post. 馃憤
 

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Dont need to take the rear clam off to do the U tube (probably wouldnt even help if it was off tbh). Do it from under the car with tray off. Easy to get to.
I am just curious, have you done this yourself? It would be very difficult to get in there and remove those clips, not to mention putting them back in.
 

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I am just curious, have you done this yourself? It would be very difficult to get in there and remove those clips, not to mention putting them back in.
Yeah for sure.
Post here when I did my heat exchanger. The clips arnt hard its getting the rubber tube off. It was stuck pretty good.

 

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Yeah for sure.
Post here when I did my heat exchanger. The clips arnt hard its getting the rubber tube off. It was stuck pretty good.

Yes I did see that post, good on you. I thought of doing it last year, but decided to wait until this year when I installed the supercharger. 馃憤馃榿
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the replies. I am going to do the t-stat but might hold off on the u tube and I will just go the route of adding a piece of hose for protection. I do plan on supercharging the car early this coming spring or next winter so Ill have to remove the intake for that job anyways which sounds like the easiest way to get to it. I guess it depends on how the thermostat job goes though.

I just got the front clam off which was a pain. Getting the lip where the radiator grill tabs slot into on the clam over the radiator shroud was nerve racking. One of the the 5mm hex screw in the door hinge area was not tightened all the way down and the head was stripped. I was lucky and a t30 torx socket ended up biting which allowed me to remove the bolt but I am certainly not going to even attempt putting it back in.

Going over the car I have a list of items I need to complete the job:
  • 5mm allen bolt in the door hinge area that attaches the front clam
  • 8x wheel liner clips
  • 1x vale cover bolt (One that goes into a lid bone mount - not sure if these are longer than standard)
Anyone know where I can get these items in the US?
 

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I am just curious, have you done this yourself? It would be very difficult to get in there and remove those clips, not to mention putting them back in.
Honestly, the clips were easy. They're standard Toyota small hose spring clips. I used small needle nose vice grips and slid the bottom two down onto the U bend.

The harder part was getting the U bend unstuck from the hoses after 14 years. I stuck a machinist's awl in between the tube and the hose and worked it around to free the one from the other. Having already drained the coolant from the engine block, about two ounces of coolant was all that came out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well its been a few days working on the car and running to harbor freight for tools but I finally got the new radiator, hoses, and thermostat in. The U tube already had some hose zip tied to it for protection so I was able to skip that step for now. I still need to tighten waterneck nuts, put the alternator and belt back on then airlift coolant back into the car to check for leaks. Then I can move onto changing some other things (brake lines and oil pan) before it goes under the cover for the winter.

What are the torque spec for the waterneck nuts? I know I cant get a tq wrench in there but id like to have a general idea of how tight theyre supposed to be. Id hate to put the alternator back on and it springs a leak.

Also for anyone that happens to do the radiator, a 10mm flex head combination wrench works much better than the 30* angled wrenches a lot of people seem to use for the rad to condenser bolts. Flex head wrenches and stubby wrenches make the job so much easier.



 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you steelypip

I now have the car to a point where I am trying to refill the coolant. Fired the car up, opened the rear and front bleed valves, filled the reservoir with coolant and waited. No coolant ever came out of the rear bleed hole or the front, fans came on low then high and temps hit 220 and I shut the car off. I tried with the car level and with the rear up on ramps. I cant seem to get the coolant flow started and I am not sure what I can do. Any suggestions?

I haven't tried to pressurize the overflow with compressed air or a shopvac, maybe that would help? If I do that should the car be running while I am pressurizing? I am a little concerned for the reservoir because it looks like it is on its last legs.

Since there was a temp reading on the gauge there has to be at least some coolant flow, right? I would guess if there was none there wouldn't be a reading.

I should mention I bought a cheap version of an airlift tool but the cone attachment was hard to get to seal and my compressor was too small to create a vacuum so I gave up and decided to try it the old fashioned way.
 

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In your pictures the new thermostat looks like it has a different design jiggle pin towards the center rather than on the outer edge on the old stat
This pin is to allow air out of the system before the thermostat opens as well as help in better opening as some warm coolant can pass to both sides of the state to open it correctly.
When mounting the new state side ways as in the 2zzge engine the pin should always be at the top to allow air to pass out of the system more easily.
This may or may not be your issue
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In your pictures the new thermostat looks like it has a different design jiggle pin towards the center rather than on the outer edge on the old stat
This pin is to allow air out of the system before the thermostat opens as well as help in better opening as some warm coolant can pass to both sides of the state to open it correctly.
When mounting the new state side ways as in the 2zzge engine the pin should always be at the top to allow air to pass out of the system more easily.
This may or may not be your issue
I installed the thermostat with the vent hole at 12 oclock so that shouldn't be an issue. I should also mention when my cars fans kicked on both rad hoses and rad were room temperature so I dont think coolant was even making it to the thermostat.

I am going to try and use a little pressure because I cant think of any other way to get the coolant to enter the system. I'll post an update if it works or doesnt work but I am still open to advice.
 

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I went through this after draining the engine block when changing to a water-oil intercooler. My solution was to idle the engine until the temp gauge indicated about 205 F, then shut it off. Wait for it to cool down to 180 or so, then start it again. Note that this was after purging air from all the lines I could find. After three cycles, it got the thermostat hot enough that it burped and started pumping water.

I admit that this isn't my favorite way to do it, but it worked, and it doesn't seem to have hurt anything. It does seem like pulling a vacuum on the right hose (maybe the throttle body heater hose?) would do the trick, but I haven't really thought it through.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ended up attaching a hose to the little overflow port on the header tank and hooked it up to my little pancake air compressor. With the car turned off and a filled overflow tank, closed the top cap, and opened the front bleeder (keeping the rear ones closed). I gave a little squirt of air into the tube and almost the entire tank went into the rest of the system. I did this for about a gallon of coolant and the final burst of air was enough to push some coolant out of the front bleed valve.

Next I fired the car up and let it run with the heater on so I would be able to tell if the coolant was flowing or not. The cars rear end was jacked up. Bleed screws opened (so this time the rear one near the overflow tank was open as well), and I got a steady stream of coolant coming from both bleed screws. The car got to almost 205* but the rad hoses were still cold and the heater air was not even warm.

While still running I lowered the rear of the car so it was flat on the ground, and open and closed the bleed screws several time, also squeezing the hoses to promote movement. After about 20-30 minutes of doing that the temp dropped to about 180 and the heater air was warm and the hoses were finally heated up. I continued to open and close the bleed screws, which occasionally had some little air bubbles. It was 65* out and with a 180* thermostat It was pretty steady at 190* after running for well over an hour. I'm sure there is still air in the system but its enough that I can confirm my car's cooling system is in working order with no leaks again and with the new upgraded parts.

I ended up putting in about 2.5 gallons of coolant which is a little more than I removed, but 1/2 gallon of that was probably lost from bleeding. My garage floor is a total mess after bleeding lol.

But anyways, thank you everyone for your advice and help I truly appreciate it. I am finally done with the nightmare cooling system!(y)
 
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