The Lotus Cars Community banner

61 - 80 of 85 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Do you guys know where they sell a complete rebuild kit for this so that you don't have to source them individually?
I was never able to find a kit that had the correct bearings all of the were for gm variants. Maybe the Jackson racing or miata kits share the same sizes and would have a kit.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
2008 Exige S240
Joined
·
3,079 Posts
I rebuilt the snout of my mp62 supercharger on my vf kit a few weeks ago. The coupler was badly worn and caused one of the snout bearings to fail. Overall it wasn't hard just time consuming to pull out the supercharger. I ordered a rebuild kit on ebay(one of the bearings did not match so i had to order another) with 2 bottles Gm supercharger oil and then followed the instructions here.
Eaton snout rebuild
How many miles were on the SC before the rebuild? Were they track or street miles or both? What did yours sound like as it was going bad?
-Robert
 

·
Registered
2008 Exige S240
Joined
·
3,079 Posts
Is it possible to suck out all the old oil with a pump and tube (i.e. is the bottom of the chamber "simple/smooth" or are there recesses)?

Mine leaks a bit of oil when I track it so I'd like to get it *all* out and put in the right amount (the folks at Magnuson told me 146ml is the amount).

Does anyone have more pictures of a dismantled MP62 to help me visualize?

Thanks!
Where is the oil leaking from on the SC'er?
-Robert
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
I finally got it out !

It came out into my hands like a baby being delivered. Pics coming, but I can't add anything more than what is already available RE: step by step instructions. I will show what I find as I crack it open. As I revolve it by hand back and forth I hear no grating sounds. The blades have lost about 1/16" of the ceramic coating in places, no blade gouges.

I need to get my good camera back from my brother. So far so good. I am going to pull the pulley tomorrow and crack it open...

Found some good sites for M62 Eaton minor port and polish techniques to go with everything else I am doin...

Might as well as go for all efficiencies I can. Next stop is a blown blower ! nah.:rolleyes:heh

I am questioning the best technique for pressing those ceramic bearings in ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
How many miles were on the SC before the rebuild? Were they track or street miles or both? What did yours sound like as it was going bad?
-Robert
I think there was around 30k mixed miles on the supercharger and it started to just rattle really bad. The thing that really did it for me was that when the belt was removed i was unable to rotate the pulley freely, it was binding in a few places. After the rebuild that went away.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
I got side tracked... I am sealing the SC up and starting reassembly today.


I decided to do a mild port/polish on the SC. I was toying with blocking the silencer ports, but ultimately decided it was foolish unless you could put in plates. ( blocking silencer holes makes SC whine more pronounced, but only offers maybe .5 more boost. If you look into it I suggest you think real hard about it. The orientation of these means if you used JB weld or Quicksteel to block these holes, if there are any issue down the road ( and I guess sooner or later there would be,) then that jb weld would likely fall back in and destroy your rotors or find itself in your engine...

What I did find was the coupler offered by rolling performance does not fit the MP62. It is larger, maybe for the M90 ? I had it all fitted and was sealing it up and noticed the rotors would not turn. I had to tear it all apart and clean everything with solvent for two hours.

I put the old coupler back in and noticed it recessed in the hole perfectly. I reused it cause it had zero play in it.

I am going to take my valve cover off and hopefully see nothing and put it right back on. You guys have scared me too much !

I also decided to leave my bearings alone. There is zero play at all and I am afraid if I don't have the right seals from rolling performance I could get stuck. I wanted to use the ceramic bearings, but after everything I read, I don't think it is the best idea. Just like the JB weld it sounds fine, but really if there are any chips or anything goes wrong with installing those bearings then your looking at catastrophic failure instead of just a noisy supercharger which is a good indicator of problems...My SC is operating quietly with zero play
I just don't think it's worth the extra risk.

Sorry to let down on that one. I was all about it, but I think my leak was actually just a minor seal issue near the bolts. It was seeing sc oil bubbling around the head of a bolt that made me think I had bad seal. ( Seal is actually in the nose ! ) I just needed to reseal the case. There was plenty of oil in my SC when I cracked it open and it was amber, not black. Just as FYI my SC only has 20k miles on it.

What I did find was the coating had come off of my rotors somewhat, but it requires a rebuild of the rotors to recoat and well... It is still servicable. So I am going to seal it up, give it some time to cure, fill it with oil.

what I did find was that my oil dipstick gasket was shredded. It was replaced at the dealer once already years ago I am thinking that might be the main source of oil. Thinking it had been replaced once I never really considered it could fail again and that is why I focused so intently on my SC. I am also looking for other possible culprits near that area where my leak seemed to originate. I am coming to the conclusion that my minor SC leak issue had very little if anything to do with the oil I found on my shear panel... but hey ! It's ported/ polished, resealed, with fresh oil. I also polished the inside of the entire intake track as well... None of that can hurt !
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Hey Jeff_R1

Sorry to hijack your thread man. It was this thread that got me over my fear to remove my clam and get down to business once and for all.

I owe you much for it. Thanks man. peacb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Hey Jeff_R1

Sorry to hijack your thread man. It was this thread that got me over my fear to remove my clam and get down to business once and for all.

I owe you much for it. Thanks man. peacb
Good to hear. :ST:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motard

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,229 Posts
It's ported/ polished, resealed, with fresh oil. I also polished the inside of the entire intake track as well... None of that can hurt !
Did you look up on the internet how to port and polish a supercharger? If so, do you still have the link? Could you post it here?
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Here is most of what I was going by other than just LT :

There were raging debates on the plugging of silencer holes. I chose not to do it, many have and are fine. I am also not including any of the links about it. If you find yourself tempted like I was ( quiksteel in hand...) think and sleep over it a long time and hopefully you will decide the potential downside is just not worth it for increased noise alone... TVS don't have these silencer ports cause they don't need to quiet the SC for OEM applications.

RE: Porting. I went light. I only cleaned up casting imperfections and a little polishing on the outlet of the SC. ( 30%dremel and 70
%sandpaper. Be cautious with dremel ) I spent the bulk of my time porting and polishing the inlet. ( where the throttle body runs into SC) The casting process left very rough (almost sand grain like ) on the surface of the SC intake. I just sanded all that with 300grit then overkill with 1000grit till it was as smooth as the bore where the rotors are. You can't get every angle and corner, but you can get to almost 90% or so with your hands. Then I just light sanded all the intake track, ( really just to get grime off mostly and flatten the casting impression ). I did not take any material off the bore where the rotors go. I did lightly sand with 1000 grit to take the few places where rotors caused a scratch.

Be certain to tape over the needle bearings before you start sanding anything... Don't really follow what these links say RE: cutting into the outlet of the SC. The M62 shown is a 2nd or 3rd generation m62. Ours is what 4th or 5th ? Focus on the inlet... Even Eaton said that is where most of gains of efficiency could be found. I can see why after having spent x hours sanding on it. It was the most turbulence prone area I would guess ? Part of me thought that maybe it was intentional, but Eaton said gains could be found. It is just the balance of manufacturing. They could not polish it all themselves and make a profit.

M62 supercharger porting port answers - Saturn ION RedLine Forums

M62 Blower Work - Saturn ION RedLine Forums

Porting and Polishing M62
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
RE: Porting. I went light. I only cleaned up casting imperfections and a little polishing on the outlet of the SC. ( 30%dremel and 70
%sandpaper. Be cautious with dremel ) I spent the bulk of my time porting and polishing the inlet. ( where the throttle body runs into SC) The casting process left very rough (almost sand grain like ) on the surface of the SC intake. I just sanded all that with 300grit then overkill with 1000grit till it was as smooth as the bore where the rotors are. You can't get every angle and corner, but you can get to almost 90% or so with your hands. Then I just light sanded all the intake track, ( really just to get grime off mostly and flatten the casting impression ). I did not take any material off the bore where the rotors go. I did lightly sand with 1000 grit to take the few places where rotors caused a scratch.

Be certain to tape over the needle bearings before you start sanding anything... Don't really follow what these links say RE: cutting into the outlet of the SC. The M62 shown is a 2nd or 3rd generation m62. Ours is what 4th or 5th ? Focus on the inlet... Even Eaton said that is where most of gains of efficiency could be found. I can see why after having spent x hours sanding on it. It was the most turbulence prone area I would guess ? Part of me thought that maybe it was intentional, but Eaton said gains could be found. It is just the balance of manufacturing. They could not polish it all themselves and make a profit.
Sounds like a big job. Did you consider the Extrude Hone process and if so why did you not go that route?
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
I have scant few images, but when I find a moment I will post. The images in the links give you all you need to know really. It becomes clear what can be done when the thing is apart in your hands...

I just got it back in tnite. Had to take the ECU off to get back in. Don't ask how I got it off in the first place:thwack:

I just wanted to give an efficiency bump polishing the intake track. It was a very mild port job. I just want to be safe, but I am happy with it.

I took the breather tube off top and bottom and sealed the gaskets and used blue locktite ( on most everything ). I also think I semi- permanently sealed that pesky dipstick too. Since I was popping off as it was I also went for one of those phenolic thermal barriers...

Tomorrow the throttle body and most of the rest, then I will tinker around the house until my exhaust gets back next week. Then a test run and reverse the removal of clam and interior.



I have learned much about my ride. I even think I could swap out an engine if I needed to, but Man I want my car and my life back !I think I have hit rock bottom with my mod addiction...:facepalm
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Everything is good. It zips around like it should. The SC whine is a bit higher and it definitely seems to be more free running. ( New grease on needle bearings, new oil in snout )

It was a very satisfying winter Odyssey...

With that said I had this supreme satisfaction of driving it in a fashion that put to bed any doubts about the value of my time reflected. I drove it to see if I still like it after all these months of angst. Oh helllz yeah my car is more evil than ever !

No doubt attributed to that time honored tradition of continuing to wrench past midnight bleeding on the engine that just angrily cut you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Congrats, I wish I would have done some porting when i had mine out.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
got my SC fluid in this week, so will probably be changing the SC, along with other fluids this weekend!



From Eaton:
Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage.

Q: I’ve decided I need to change the oil in my supercharger. How do I do this?
A: If you do want to change the oil there is one fill/drain plug on the front face of the front cover. It will probably be an Allen type plug. You will have to suction out the oil using a syringe or other method before replacing with new oil. Fill levels are dependent on application. For aftermarket units, please consult the aftermarket partner company that produced that specific kit. For OEM units, please see the list below or email [email protected]. New oil can be obtained from any GM or Ford service parts facility, or from one of the Eaton aftermarket supercharger partner companies or remanufacturers. Please make sure you do NOT use any other type of oil, including synthetic motor oils. These will cause failure.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Since our supercharger is considered aftermarket I will have to contact Magnuson directly to find out the exact amount of oil required. However, you could just average the three listed OEM MP62s and put in around 108 ml.

Concerning changing the oil on the Exige S MP62, the supercharger is readily accessible directly under the intake manifold. I would probably remove the IC (if still equipped) and associated plumbing to get easier access. Then I would suck out the oil with a small hand pump from Napa/Autozone and renew the oil with the GM/Ford stuff. In a few thousand miles when I change mine I will be sure to create a full DIY.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 

·
Registered
07 Exige S
Joined
·
1,645 Posts
Holy threadbump!

I don't even know how I ended back up to this thread? Just the same I made some mistakes the first time I should put out there.

First, I put too much grease on the needle bearings. I did a subsequent major teardown and the blue needle bearing grease was all over the lobes. I had to crack the unit apart clean everything back up and put it back together with yet more fresh SC oil.


Anyway fast forward to today. It's a beastly quick little car! LOTUS Ownership reminds me of a WWII poster. Jeff_r1. Your thread hit me just at the right time to push me over the edge!!!

[/URL][/IMG]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,952 Posts
I wasn't able to find a rebuild kit that had the correct bearing that is closest to the pulley. For the sout rebuild you need a 6303 and a 6204 bearing, a new snout seal and c clip (same as the m62), a new coupler(I got an extended life one), 1.5 bottles of gm supercharger oil and a tube of Anaerobic Flange Sealant. In the end I just ordered the correct bearing off amazon and called it a day.

Jeff

For the mp62 it recommends one bottle of the GM supercharger oil. Not sure if more makes a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
For the mp62 it recommends one bottle of the GM supercharger oil. Not sure if more makes a difference.
It has been a while but I think i measured what came out of mine and it was a little more than what one bottle contained. I think this is one of those situations were overfilling is probably worse than under filling.
 
61 - 80 of 85 Posts
Top