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Discussion Starter #1
So attached is my right rear Michelin pilot super sport. Stock size, 15k miles in. An auto cross and lots of hard driving; I'm not easy on tires and niether is the weather here.

I am about to replace, but the wear on the inside shoulder is pretty high (down to the belt). Alignment is to lotus specs and pretty recent. I played with tire pressures for awhile to get to a good warm/hot psi once they come to temp. I thought I had I'd dialed in well but am looking for your input. Wear seems balanced along the tire to match the camber, and is roughly the same on the left side.

The belt showing on the shoulder just had me wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The right tire (above is left, thanks iphone)
 

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** The Enforcer **
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Performance cars usually have a lot of camber, hence the inside wearing quickly. The only thing you can do with directional tires is "flip" the tires (move the right to left and vice versa).

I was driving back from Phoenix in my Corvette last week and my front right tire separated on the inside (down to the steel belts). What I didn't realize is that if you didn't hit something (pothole, debris) your tire is actually covered under your comprehensive coverage. The key is to have a low deductible and expensive tires.

San
 

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Wingless Wonder
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if you didn't hit something (pothole, debris) your tire is actually covered under your comprehensive coverage.
^^ That is nice to know, San!

Did you put in a claim? Did they give you any hassle?


I ask this because tire dealers often claim that previous stress from potholes and rough roads cause belts to separate, not "Manufacturing Defects". I could see an Insurance Adjuster claiming the same thing.

Back in the '90s I swore I'd never buy another tire from a certain maker, because they failed on me on two cars...
 

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Looks like you are running a little too much toe in. More then likely the toe in is more then needed for stability. This with a little bit of negative camber will knock the inside shoulder down quickly.
Do you have your recent alignment numbers on hand?
 

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** The Enforcer **
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^^ That is nice to know, San!

Did you put in a claim? Did they give you any hassle?


I ask this because tire dealers often claim that previous stress from potholes and rough roads cause belts to separate, not "Manufacturing Defects". I could see an Insurance Adjuster claiming the same thing.

Back in the '90s I swore I'd never buy another tire from a certain maker, because they failed on me on two cars...
I did and no hassle at all (so far). I replaced both front tires and I will be reimbursed about $220 (for one tire) after my deductible.

I was actually kind of arguing with the insurance girl I spoke to because I "knew" she was wrong, but she looked it up and actually quoted the section that was applicable. She also told me that when you call your insurance agency always say new claim so you'll get a real human, even on a Sunday afternoon.

San
 

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Porsche Cayman S
Infiniti G35
Cadillac CTS-V

Aaaaaalll had the same thing. No worries, just rotate sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The factory specs have a good amount of toe and camber. I would have to pull the service manual, but the dealer did it and I asked him to keep it stock settings when I paid for it, I don't need anything more aggressive.

No rotating--directional and staggered. If I rotated L/R the inside shoulder would still wear fast.

Carlos brought up a good point about just having soft sidewalls-I guess these are softer than I realized.
 

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** The Enforcer **
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The factory specs have a good amount of toe and camber. I would have to pull the service manual, but the dealer did it and I asked him to keep it stock settings when I paid for it, I don't need anything more aggressive.

No rotating--directional and staggered. If I rotated L/R the inside shoulder would still wear fast.

Carlos brought up a good point about just having soft sidewalls-I guess these are softer than I realized.
You don't rotate the tires, you "flip" them to the other side. Right tire is removed from the wheel and moved to the left wheel. Repeat for the left tire to the right wheel. I used to do this all the time on my WRX as it had very aggressive settings.

San
 

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Carlos brought up a good point about just having soft sidewalls-I guess these are softer than I realized.
I know you have an evora (1000+lbs heavier), but many of us Elige guys run lower than factory recommended pressures to get a little more traction & even wear (especially in the rear)... for example: i think our sticker calls for 26f/29r but I run 24f/26r cold

but by design you will always wear a bit more on the inside because of aggressive cambering... just a nature of the lotus beast

maybe dropping a couple psi out of the rears would help... worth a shot imo :shrug:

this is assuming the rest of your alignment/toe is accurate
 

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You don't rotate the tires, you "flip" them to the other side. Right tire is removed from the wheel and moved to the left wheel. Repeat for the left tire to the right wheel. I used to do this all the time on my WRX as it had very aggressive settings.

San
You can't flip them either. The Pirelli P Zeros are asymetric and have larger blocks of tread on the outside. (See picture above.) If you 'flip' them, then you have a lot less tread on the outside and loss of grip.
 

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I know you have an evora (1000+lbs heavier), but many of us Elige guys run lower than factory recommended pressures to get a little more traction & even wear (especially in the rear)... for example: i think our sticker calls for 26f/29r but I run 24f/26r cold

maybe dropping a couple psi out of the rears would help... worth a shot imo :shrug:
I usually run about 1 to 2 lbs less than the spec on the door on the Evora.
 

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Closer than you think
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Frankly, if you can take that much tread off before you need to worry about uneven wear maybe you should consider yourself lucky, especially when we can't rotate. Now, if I had moderate wear on one side verses severe on the other I'd be more concerned.
 

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Wow Such Admin
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I agree with gr82drv, your tire is pretty much touching the wear bar so it is technically getting time to replace them anyway. Good thing the inner wear isn't happening sooner to where you would have to replace a tire with like 50% life still left on the center tread.

The inner wear happens on most performance cars. Every dealer I have worked at, we have had customers ask us to go as far positive with the camber (even outside of factory spec) as possible as to try to prolong tire life. Inner tire wear was a HUGE issue on g35 coupes back in the day. We would have customers come in with like 8-10k miles with tires eaten up on the inner edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ack on needing to replace-already in the plan.

And ask on only bring able to flip, hence my l/r comment.

My only concern was the wear right on the shoulder, not just the inside tread block. I know this type if wear is normal for cars in this class and my specs are to factory...my major concern was just the belt on the edge if the shoulder, and how that would impact pressures

I played a lot day to day and during auto cross and already run much lower then factory suggestion (33/36) due to heat in fl and how much the tires heat up when driving. If I ran any lower I would be concerned about cupping.

Glad to know the consensus is normal. I'm sure it doesn't help I'm running rather aggressive aero either :) thanks for the help
 
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