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r and r with sixth gear change

OK
newbe here
it took 11 hrs to remove and replace transmission with fidanza flywheel on new car (only had 750miles), and sixth gear change out, also installed tilt kit two weeks ealier (big benifit) which made it easier. in the muggy florida heat, not a DA I did it at night.

I keep seeing directions on fixes without tilt kit, you have got to be fffffin insane, the agravation alone reaching thru the hole.

the hardest part
putting the starter and clutch slave back in.

next time I'll need a mini me with small hands for that dam starter.
OH only unbolt starter and leave in place (next time I might strap battery cable up to hold starter in place.

:coolnana:
Don
 

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Here are my 2 cents on removing the left axle which I just did to replace the seal. If the outer joint seems stuck in the hub, use an axle tool like this:



...Here's what I ended up doing:

1. Disconnected battery
2. Removeed rear diffuser and underbody engine panel
3. Lifted car using appropriate rear jack points (per manual) and removed rear wheels
4. Removed rear deck lid - not necessary but made things easier
5. Disconnect and removed intake air box. Again, this made things easier
6. Removed rear driver side fender liner
7. Removed 30mm axle nuts
8. Disconnected both rear hub carriers at plinth (noted shims) and toe link ball joints
9. Pushed axle stub out of both rear hubs
10. Removed RHD driveshaft - first removed two bolts at bearing support
11. Removed LHD driveshaft - axle circlip overcome w/ leverage bar
...
#8 you don't need to remove the upper ball joint, just remove the "tie rod" end and the hub assembly turns enought to get the outer joint out from the hub. Also no need to remove the rotor but do need to take the caliper off to access the tie rod end nut.

Why is everyone so dead set on not using the proper tools for the job? These make it a piece of cake. I'm talking 30 seconds to remove the axles...
I have one of those FWD axle pullers but mine won't work on this application. There isn't enough room to attach it, and even if you could, the jaw isn't wide enough to get behind the inside joint.

All you need is a long pry bar with your foot on the end of it to pop the axle free.
 

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I have one of those FWD axle pullers but mine won't work on this application. There isn't enough room to attach it, and even if you could, the jaw isn't wide enough to get behind the inside joint.
See post #70 in this thread for the solution to this problem.

Thanks,

Joe
 

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After a recent autocross event my clutch started to slip in higher gears. This thread was extremely helpful for removing the transmission. But there is some confusion regarding what exactly needs to be removed to get the transmission out. What I did may not be the simplest method, but it has to be close.

Here are my tips:
Do not remove the axel bolts or rotors. On the passenger (right) side I left the axle and hub in place. I only removed the two upper hub bolts to gain a bit more travel of the axle, but this may have not been necessary. Don’t remove the starter from the engine bay, just remove the two bolts holding it in place and slide it back. Remove the front and rear engine mounts first, then support the engine and transmission and remove the large bolt on the driver’s side transmission mount. Lower the engine/transmission and remove the bottom half of the mount on the transmission. This is needed if your Lotus is on jack stands, it reduces the clearance needed to slide the transmission out from under the frame.

Two tools you need to have; the FWD axle puller and a transmission jack. Both make the job much easier and are worth the investment. I picked up the axle puller on ebay for $40. As others have mentioned I had to grind it slightly to fit the axle. I also had to assemble it on the axle, it is too large to install fully assembled.

For components I went with the Fidanza aluminum flywheel and the ACT HDSS pressure plate & clutch. I’ve only driven 20 miles since the install, but I am very happy with this combination so far. The clutch pedal is 15%-20% stiffer and the lighter flywheel is much more rev happy. The car feels peppier with the lighter drive train, and I like the increased rev precision required to shift smoothly. It makes the drive more enjoyable and rewarding.

Pictures Below:
1 – Driver’s side suspension and axle with axle puller
2 – Passenger side suspension
3 & 4 – Engine/Transmission supported
5 – Aluminum flywheel
 

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I got the same transmission jack from JCWhitney 20 years ago. Watch out for the roll pin in the part where you stick your wrench on to. Mine sheared off when raising something. It could have dropped the tranny to the floor if I had it raised all the way up. And that aluminum jack is available from Harbor Freight for $60 with a coupon. It's a nice piece for the money but I hear the u-joint where you rotate the handle to lower it can break so that whatever is jacked up, stays up until you get another jack to lift the car higher and pull it out.
 

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Forgot to add the clutch weights, as accurate as can be from a bathroom scale.

Stock Flywheel: 13.5 lbs
Stock Plate and Disc: 10.0 lbs
Total: 23.5 lbs

Fidanza Flywheel: 7.5 lbs
ACT HDSS Plate and Disc: 11.5 lbs
Total: 19 lbs

A savings of 4.5 lbs, very noticeable but still easy to drive.
 

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I do everything the exact same way as ERP. The only extra thing I do is unhook the ABS wire on the passengers side to keep it from streching. Oh, and I don't use a transmission jack. I just bench press it while laying underneath the car with the help of a friend lifting the small end of the tranmission while sitting where the drivers side tire goes.
 

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So I'm back in there again. The axle seal on the donor tranny was bad on the passenger side (glad it wasn't the driver's side) so I had to once again remove the axle which was easy. Bt the seal is big, any advice on getting it in without ruining it? I have no sockets even close! hmmm
 

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My 36 MM wasn't big enough! However, mission accomplished! I turned that big socket on a diagonal angle and slowly worked my way around, tapping it in with a hammer. When I put the axle support plates together, I put antiseize on them. The hub is back together, but since I'm in there I'm gonna swap brake pads. So jst a little brake work, refill the tranny and I should be good to go! :)
 

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One thing I found REALLY difficult was putting the slave cylinder back. You have to compress the piston back a little while trying to line up the fixing holes and bolts. Well after ages trying and I have done my tranny 4 times now I wised up and made 2 studs. I loctited them into place and then it was really simple to compress the slave cylinder piston and slide onto the two studs. Also just leave the starter motor where it is, no problem.
 

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Bt the seal is big, any advice on getting it in without ruining it? I have no sockets even close! hmmm
I found something that works perfect. It is a spacer for a 1.875" shock. It is "spacer 188" from QA-1. Unfortunately you have to buy three due to a minumium order ammount. One side fits the left seal and the other side fits the right seal.
 

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Just wanted to thank everyone in this thread for their additions. My project was slightly different as I was pulling the motor/tranny out towards the top. I found that in my case I only had to loosen the top bolts to gain enough space to get the axles out. I also found that the driver side axle comes out very easy if you have another person helping. I tried myself with a single pry bar, and had no luck. With an aditional person(with a second pry bar) it popped out instantly.
 

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Thanks for great info. I will be pulling the trans here tomorrow for clutch install.
 

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Thanks to everyone for their input on this thread. I just changed my first clutch, ever...

Oh, and I did it by myself also
 

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What an insane amount of work to replace a clutch. I will definately be much kinder to my clutch in the future.
 

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My turn in the morning. Wondering what this damageable sensor is though..
 

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The drivers side axel was a total nightmare for me! I bought 2 massive pry bars and spent way to much time trying to get it off.
I ended up borrowing a big morgan knocker with a chain choker attachment. One try with this and it came right off!






Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Dang. Well I have the slide hammer, not sure how to get a good angle on the axle though..

One more blast with pb now before bed..

Seems like the going theme is brute force may be needed for the axle...
 
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