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Yah that's where the choke chain came in handy. I had plenty of room with that. The trick is to start with the axel pushed into the tranny and not pressed up against the c-clip


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Carbon Fiber
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Ahhh, I see.. Need to give it some room to compress into the groove before slamming into tranny lip..

Good tip!! I think I'm going to bed, this could end up being a long day tommorow...

Thanks
 

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4ft pry bar did the trick for me to get the driver side shaft out -- be sure to replace the C clip with a new one.

it's really 1000X easier to just remove the entire engine along with the trans attached ... super duper easy if you do it this way -- no risk of bending clutch forks, screwing up the drive splines, etc. etc.
 

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here ya go - I made a stop motion video of just how easy it is:

 

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Carbon Fiber
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Didn't have time to watch the whole video but I get the just of it.

Not that I'm sceered but if I take the car that far apart I'll wanna do all kinds of stuff since the motors out.

Already changing the. Clutch, making a custom rear mount oil cooler and putting on the vs stage II kit.

Next winter I'll pull the motor or maybe I will get lucky and blow it up earlier!!
 

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Carbon Fiber
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Remove Transmission 2006 Lotus Elise

OK well this thread has been helpful. I think some of the advise was good, and other advise was good if you were taking the whole suspension assembly apart.

I made a new thread on exactly how I removed the transmission. I did it with the clam off. My main goal was to put in a better clutch.

Basically uses a combination of what I learned here as well as keeps other approaches out of the mix.

Remove Transmission 2006 Lotus Elise
 

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10. Removed RHD driveshaft - first removed two bolts at bearing support
BTW, when people say to remove the two bolts at bearing support, it means the TWO bolts that hold the two halves of the bearing support together. It does not mean to remove the three bolts that hold the bearing support to the engine block.

I wasted a half hour because (1) I forgot how I did it originally, and (2) because I can't count up to two. :huh:
 

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I know this thread is old, but figured I would bump it up in lieu of starting a new one. How the heck do you get this transmission back in? 2 days in and I'm still struggling. Once I clear the subframe and rear driver brake line, the trans rotates towards the front and its difficult to rotate it back to get everything lined up. I'm limited to how much I can drop the motor because of my Moroso oil pan, the motor is low enough that it should slide in.

Any additional tips are welcomed.
 

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How are you lifting it? Transmission jack? I ask because I wonder if you can get it close to in place and then look up top to see if the coolant hoses or something else is causing that rotation.

Is the clutch plate for sure centered?

I usually get someone to help hold some weight with a strap from above while I get under the tranny and muscle it in with a shove.
 

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Clutch plate is 100% centered. I used the clutch tool, which I have used when I installed my late last year. I'm using a trans jack with 2 2x4s in the back and one in the front; while on the jack the trans is even/level. Unfortunately, I'm stuck doing this solo for now.
 

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Clutch plate is 100% centered. I used the clutch tool, which I have used when I installed my late last year. I'm using a trans jack with 2 2x4s in the back and one in the front; while on the jack the trans is even/level. Unfortunately, I'm stuck doing this solo for now.
Do you have the rear clam off?
I did mine solo with the rear clam off.

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Do you have the rear clam off?
I did mine solo with the rear clam off.
Unfortunately I didn't take it off even though I have a radium clam kit on. Its not a lack of access, rather trying to the get the transmission input shaft to go into the pressure plate opening is proving difficult with how the engine is tilting and the edge of the frame hitting the trans housing.
 

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After 2 days, this thing is finally in...AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Now I need to reinstall everything to and figure out if the my piston rings are still good to not, but that's for another day.

For future reference, I was able to get this thing using a Harbor Freight transmission jack and dropping the engine as low as possible. Once the input shaft engaged I had to rotate the transmission in order to get the bolts to line up. My issue was that the motor was at a slight angle and the transmission housing kept hitting the frame. I used a pry bar to push the trans towards the front of the car which allowed it to rotate and for the bolts to line up. I had a jack under the trans and the engine the whole time to alleviate any undue stress on the input shaft.

Next time, I'm pulling the motor.
 

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Grab a couple of bolts same size as the 2 top ones, 8 or 10mm can’t remember, you want them around 4-5” long, cut the heads off and grind a bit of a point on them. Then screw them into the engine side, line up the tranny with those 2 bolts and slide it home. Bob’s your uncle. 😀
 

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I've pulled a transmission out of these cars probably over 100 times. The key is to get the left side of the engine as low as possible. Hang it from the right motor mount and use the jack under the oil pan to let it down to its lowest level. Use the trans jack to get it up to a relatively close position, then use your big boy muscles to heave it into place. Works a treat. My record for getting the trans fully in the car, put together, and on the ground is 48 minutes. Of course, it was on my racecar with removeable clam AND I left the throw out bearing on the shop floor! So that time should have an asterisk like Barry Bonds homerun record!!!!
 
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