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Track Camber with R888s

3179 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Ken Wright
Nothing too earth shattering here, but working on camber settings with the Liz here. I've been neglecting this work for a while now... The R888s seem to like more negative camber than the RA-1s, as my RA-1s didn't wear as far to the outside as the R888 with the same camber.

The following pic shows one my rear tire's inner and outer track. Looks like another half degree or so would be good, which is consistent with Jack's recommendation of about 2.5* as a decent starting point in the rear. These pics are taken with rear camber square at 2.0* negative camber...

I'll document the alignment process and the homemade tools to do the work for anyone that's interested in DIY alignments... I've documented this before, I just didn't do a very good job of it:eek:




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Totally agree Phil...

I've just been able to set my front camber to -1.5 degrees... given the aggregate effect of all the other settings, the -2.1 degrees of rear camber was insufficient... the car was definitely loose. Next step: -2.5 degrees of rear camber!
the spec 944 group i race in uses the r888 as the spec tire.
it has become known to all of us, and now toyo as well, that the 888 suck as they are now.
they go away after about 3-4 sessions on the track, and they wear really poorly.
mine will have nice tread left on them, but the outside edge cords very quickly.
I have changed camber, PSI, and it still doesnt really matter, they just wear very fast.
toyo has said they are going to redesign these tires over the summertime to have stiffer sidewalls, and better grip for a longer time.

I have to flip my tires after about 7 sessions, or they will cord on the outside edge after about 10 sessions. doing this is the only way i can make them last ~20 cycles, but as i said, after 3-4 sessions, the loss of grip is really apparent.
i would choose anything other than these if they were not the spec tire in our class.
Fish- That's not good news... I'm new to the R888s. RA-1s were good and reliable and last forever. I've only got one session on the r888s. They were certainly more grippy than the RA-1s, but I can already see they're wearing FAST!-- part of the reason I'm fiddling with the camber.

I thought R888s and RA1s were using the same rubber compound, so I would think they would heat cycle out about the same? No?

This may be my last season on R comps if these R888s are going to be short lived. I have a resistance to going to slicks for no other reason than I like the idea of out pacing the guys on slicks with "street tires"... even though I trailer my "street tires" to the track.LOL .... I think I'm just weird... It's part of my drag racing upbringing, I guess;)


I think I am ready to try the Nitto NT01 after my RA1s are gone. Just too many complaints about the 888.

I thought that the NT01 and R888's were brothers - same compound, same factory... different tread pattern?...
I'd like to try anything other than the r888's....I just can't afford buying a set every other track session.
I guess I'll try the RA1's or even BFG's
I'm making really slow progress here... Busy with everyone else's project other than my own:eek:

I machined my front steering arms .157" or 4mm today. Without the ABS bracket and no shims, I have exactly 2.2 negative camber on both fronts now. I was amazed how they both were so symmetrical. The rear on my car is no where near sym. My RR takes two fewer shims to get to negative 2.5 than my LR...

Some machining pics...

More traction,



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Very nice... man, I wish I had access to a full on machine shop!

BTW, I have the almost exactly the same experience with my suspension: the front is symmetrical, and the right rear has 2mm less shims than the left...
Welp, just got back from the track. Youtube is processing the vid now:D

The car was certainly more planted than it was before. Quite a bit more grippy and the tread wear looked more as it should. I failed to check tire temps. I was too bust BSing and taking a nap on the paddock between runtimes;)

Settings are below. Everyone I've talked to says the r888s need more camber than you would think- closer to 3 degrees. I'm going to stick with what I've got for now. The front seems very good.

I'll post vid when it's up on the tube...




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Good info....I'll try to get close to these settings on my next alignment, although I won't be able to get the front camber that aggressive without shaving arms....
Good info....I'll try to get close to these settings on my next alignment, although I won't be able to get the front camber that aggressive without shaving arms....
Or, get a new set of steering arms... :coolnana:
Stock sport suspension, but I run -1.6 front and -2.5 rear and get near perfect temp readings at LRP. Pressure at ~26/29 hot. You may want more rear camber esp with all that front camber!!!
Be careful how much material you remove from the steering arm, the amount left for the front bolt to anchor to is important.

Another method is to machine the upright, it is iron and has plenty of material that may be removed with no compromise to the suspension.
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