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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,
Thought I would bounce the following list off of all of you guys and see if this list makes sense. I've got the car on stands and about to tear into it next week and want to make sure I have everything covered. Let me know if you see a problem with any specific mod/product and if you see something I've missed. Primary goal is to add reliability and take away any of the potential gotcha's. From my first track session and autocross shifting was bad so wanted to address that as well.

Starting with a stock '10 Sport

Mods
1. ProRad and associated hoses
2. S111 gpan3
3. S111 undertray stiff brace
4. S111 transcables (really not looking forward to this install)
5. S111 sportinserts engine mounts
6. Rebuilding stock Ohlins (front right had jammed rebound adjuster)
7. Larini 8" sport side exit and associated bumperette delete, hole fill
8. gaggle of TD track wheels from bwr and tirerack tires(track and autocross).
9. Motul brake fluid change(already done)
10. Redline transfluid change

I have thought about wheel studs and thought about making the accusump valve mechanical instead of elec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good catch. I had heard the Sports had a better toe link, but that probably isn't the case. I will look at see if it is the standard tonight and order parts if needed. Guessing that job won't be too bad.
 

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1. - Probably not required on a '10 unless you're in a very hot climate
3. - questionable how well this works given its construction, at best $$ probably better spent elsewhere
4. - Why? Unless you really hate the stock shifting... not sure any cable solution is going to dramatically improve things though
7. - I've heard Larini exhausts aren't built for the track (ie you'll blow it out in short order) but never tried one. Would be inclined to go with 2bular or BOE myself...

The rest looks good. Hopefully you already know you'll be doing #9 a lot if you're a track regular. In regard to the toe link, if you've got the dual sheer version from the factory you've already got a decent solution in my book. If you change out the toe link that will require a corner balance and alignment (which aren't on your list)

Honestly aside from a GPan and a full tank of gas and a fluid change the car doesn't need much for the track. That money you're spending on some of the items I've pointed out above would probably be better spent on a harness and a hans if you don't already have those.
 

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And the other unmentioned item; what tires do you plan on tracking with? Nothing enhances handling of the car more than the right tires.
 

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I would add BOE surge tank to prevent fuel starvation
Shouldn't the '10's have the most recent lotus fuel tank that isn't prone to fuel starve? Lotus revised the tank design at some point, I don't believe the newer tanks are prone to the same problems as 05-08 at least.

OP, you'd be better served telling us just how much track time you think you'll do in a year. The 'list' of to do things is going to vary wildly depending on how often and how serious you are about going to the track. On the other hand, I know people who do more than a dozen track weekends a year on stock cars.. this includes stock oil pans and everything else... with zero problems.
 

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There are many ways to re-enforce the shifter. Helped with my car. I did the Stan mod. Sector sells something also. Upgrade the link that goes onto your rear uprights if you already have the bracketed toe links

You will definately want Sectors steering arms to get more camber up front. I have been playing with the alignment for 2 years and slowly getting it dialed in. I bought a tire temp gauge to help figure out my camber

I just installed the new Radium surge tank in my girlfriends 06 and it was almost stupid simple if ur tank is like the old fuel tanks

Yes you do not have harnesses and a ride height/corner balance/alignment on your list. They are probably the most important things you need to have done
 

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OP, you'd be better served telling us just how much track time you think you'll do in a year. The 'list' of to do things is going to vary wildly depending on how often and how serious you are about going to the track. On the other hand, I know people who do more than a dozen track weekends a year on stock cars.. this includes stock oil pans and everything else... with zero problems.[/QUOTE]

This brings up an interesting point. I track my mostly stock NA Elise four times a year on Toyo R1R tires. I have not done any toe link upgrades and question if they are necessary at this level, but I do check for tightness after most every event. Any comentary on whether the upgrade is necessary?

I have considered installing Nord-Lock washers on stock toe links for some added safety and I would like some opinions on this as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I'll try to answer some here and some of the other questions as well.

1. radiator because I just have an issue with plastic end tanks and I don't want to "have to" replace it later if it fails.
3. Stiffner, fair enough.
4. I hate the stock shifting under track conditions. Under threshold breaking the down shift is awful from 5th to 4th. I don't miss shift of anything, but it is like rubber. The shift under full throttle from 1st to 2nd is really mush as well.
7. It was the recommended by Shinoo for my requirements (has to be <100db), but I'm open to discussion for sure.

Yes, I know I will be doing a lot of oil changes, so no issue there.

Here's what my plans are for this year as far as use.
5-8 track events, some are 2days with about 2.5hrs of track time per day at most of our events.
About 8-10 autocross events

Tires for autocross will be hoosier a6
Tires for track days will be Toyo888

I should of mentioned that I already have harness, but no hans.
Alignment and corner balance is planned, just not me doing it. Thanks guys!!

cashxdr, I will do the stan mod as well, thanks for mentioning it.



1. - Probably not required on a '10 unless you're in a very hot climate
3. - questionable how well this works given its construction, at best $$ probably better spent elsewhere
4. - Why? Unless you really hate the stock shifting... not sure any cable solution is going to dramatically improve things though
7. - I've heard Larini exhausts aren't built for the track (ie you'll blow it out in short order) but never tried one. Would be inclined to go with 2bular or BOE myself…

The rest looks good. Hopefully you already know you'll be doing #9 a lot if you're a track regular. In regard to the toe link, if you've got the dual sheer version from the factory you've already got a decent solution in my book. If you change out the toe link that will require a corner balance and alignment (which aren't on your list)

Honestly aside from a GPan and a full tank of gas and a fluid change the car doesn't need much for the track. That money you're spending on some of the items I've pointed out above would probably be better spent on a harness and a hans if you don't already have those.
 

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I'd get the Sector111 RTDBrace for your toe solution. It attaches the toe links together like the Lotus Cup setup and adds some rigidity while fixing the inner toe link shear problem. Kills two of your birds (rear stiffness and toe link issues) with one stone. I'm pretty sure that even in '10 the "Sport" package didn't come with the improved toe link from the factory - only the Track Pack and Cup cars.

As for the exhaust I'd get a BOE ST-5 (-5dB version of Silent Touch). I think it fits in your sound requirements, the exit is similar, and unlike the Larini exhausts it can be taken apart and repacked easily. Heavy track use will melt the packing in your muffler eventually - there's really no way around it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wanted to better explain where I'm running as well. The main track I will race on is Roebling Road which has a lot of long sweeping turns, so high sustained g load. I have seen and heard of cars that have popped due to oil starvation here and not elsewhere. The gpan is kinda insurance for me.

I will dig up pictures on the dual shear to see if my car has it or not and decide whether or not I need to address that potential issue. I raced the car on the track and it was great but since I have 3 weeks of downtime I wanted to take care of as much as possible now.

I really appreciate everyone weighing in on this as well. Thanks guys!


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I would add a surge tank also then if only for a piece of mind

I have the BOE muffler, just not that version which is a bit quieter and it survived my summer so I am happy with it

I have almost more intake/sc noise than exhaust noise from my VF2. Sounds like it is eating the world as I go by. Heh heh

Damn I love that thing!
 

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How many track events have you done so far? Some of the mods can wait till your driving improves.

Toe links
Oil pan
6 point harness
Brakes pads

Later:

Don't do inserts, change the front and rear mounts.
Tires - don't do what I did and track your A6's. You will burn them up in 2 days. Get a track rated tire.
Sector Arms and pull your shims.
Surge Tank.
Hans or Necksgen is good piece of mind as you get faster.
Shocks will help tremendously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This year, one. With Exige 1. Plenty before, loads of autox. It's been a few years so hopefully driving improvement will be steep slope initially.

-I am researching the toe links based on previous post about potential beef up on 2010 Sports but if it isn't sorted I will do that for sure.
-Oil pan is in garage
-I have schroth harness
-I have new pads, but wanting to tourch stock pads first.

Thanks for info on inserts, any reason? Just not much value? There's such a huge price difference.

A6's are only for autox. 888's for track, may get R6's as I improve.

For camber, I did pull shims, but looks like arms may be in my future. Is this just to get more neg? What is everyone getting or wanting to get in this car?

Surge tank - the track I run at is close to a gas station so I will just refill. My thought here was that if I ever wanted to commit I would just do the baffle approach. Isn't that the more ideal setup?

You mention shocks. I have 2 way Ohlins that are stock which I have sent to Ohlins to rebuild. I'm figuring these are fairly capable, no?

How many track events have you done so far? Some of the mods can wait till your driving improves.

Toe links
Oil pan
6 point harness
Brakes pads

Later:

Don't do inserts, change the front and rear mounts.
Tires - don't do what I did and track your A6's. You will burn them up in 2 days. Get a track rated tire.
Sector Arms and pull your shims.
Surge Tank.
Hans or Necksgen is good piece of mind as you get faster.
Shocks will help tremendously.




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don't see anything wrong with the inserts myself. Sure you can go even stiffer by replacing the mounts, but makes sense to try the cheaper option first in this case.

There's really not much to be addressed to get these cars track ready. Keep your gas tank full (but probably not required on '10), have double sheer inner toe links AND check the torque frequently, and frequent fluid changes (engine, brakes, trans)

Then you can work on the things you've identified- rad isn't bad option if you feel the way you do, inserts and the stan mod may help with the shifter issues you complain about.

Have you driven another lotus on track? I'd try and do that if possible- what if *your* shifter is out of whack because the stock cables aren't properly adjusted?

You won't get a ton of camber up front even with the shims out but it will help. Makes sense to get the v2 arms rather than shave the stock arms for more camber (but certainly not a requirement).

Probably worth considering that the 'perfect' AX alignment and 'perfect' track alignment are two different things.

Of course, if you're trying to be really really fast on track you'll want to do a ton of things. But if you're only looking to enjoy the car and do what you can to keep you and the car in one piece, really not too much to be done IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's a good point, I haven't. RBH was here a few weeks ago and that would of been a good opportunity as it's possible I have issue. Car is low milage but anything is possible. If I get a chance I will see if I can work something out with another owner.

Just curious as I haven't put it on the rack yet. With shims pulled including abs bracket, what neg should I expect?

Right you are on alignment from an ideal perspective, but with a mostly stock car I think the two will be the same right?. It's a compromise situation. Slight toe in rear, 0 front, max neg cam front and rear. Is castor adjustable(didn't look like it while yanking shocks)? My alignment guy is actually a race car prep/ex ferrari track guy so should do ok, but good to know what I should expect.

Too true on purpose, I'm not going full tilt and living on edge but will likely push it enough. I'm fairly competitive internally and I know what fast times are on the track. Autox will be interesting as I'm not willing to hack car to flaunt the classifications so it is what it is. I raced last weekend on stock tires and setup and was way off pace. a6's should help as well as me driving better but I know what the car is capable of and I will get paxed locally and not be competitive unless I hack it up and drive better at larger venue. Long season however, so we will play it as it comes along.

Have you driven another lotus on track? I'd try and do that if possible- what if *your* shifter is out of whack because the stock cables aren't properly adjusted?

You won't get a ton of camber up front even with the shims out but it will help. Makes sense to get the v2 arms rather than shave the stock arms for more camber (but certainly not a requirement).

Probably worth considering that the 'perfect' AX alignment and 'perfect' track alignment are two different things.

Of course, if you're trying to be really really fast on track you'll want to do a ton of things. But if you're only looking to enjoy the car and do what you can to keep you and the car in one piece, really not too much to be done IMO.




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Inserts will wear out faster and one of the easiest ways to improve shifting is by taking all that engine flex out. We changed all 4 on my wife's Elise but I only changed the front and rear on my Exige at the advice of turbo Phil. If you have ever filmed your engine it's only moving in the forward and aft axis.

As jds said, the v2 arms will give you a little more neg camber without grinding down your stock ones. I'm running -1.7 and -1.8. Remember also the SCCA requires you to leave your ABS plug shim in.

4 point harnesses are legal for autox and track days but not NASA. And I learned the hard way again once last year when an instructor refused to ride with me because I only had 4 points.

Tires are your choice, we all have our own preferences and everyone has an opinion. I was just trying to keep you from doing what I did wasting $1200 over a weekend.

Those shocks will do you fine till you outgrow them, I'm still running the factory track pack Bilstiens with oversized springs. We did Nitrons on the wife's Elise but I'm doing fine with what I have.

Alignments are another self choice. Some people use a little toe on the front and rear or none. It's up to you. If you change the arms get another alignment.

Balance is a must but I would focus your balance more towards the track, you won't really notice it that much in autox, you may have to add weight to the passenger side. I have 44 lbs on my passenger floor.

One thing I forgot to mention, I have a BWR adjustable sway bar, it's helps out drastically on the slaloms. I love it.
 

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hard for me to remember what you can get sans shims. Maybe -0.7*? Less than -1.0* for sure.

Even stock I'd probably be run some toe out for AX, where on track I've got a little toe in.
 

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4 point harnesses are death traps.

either run the factory seat belts or a correctly installed 5/6 point harness. Make sure the harness is secured to the chassis and not the seat...

-Phil
 
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