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shay2nak
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i am seriously thinking about buying the Nitron Pro springs and installing them in place of the stock springs on my track pack. I worry that they will be to stiff at 525 and 650. Will these springs lower the ride height?

Has anyone replaced just the springs in their track pack? Since I'm about to buy new wheels and wider rear tires, I want to lower the car as well and stiffen up the suspension to curb possible rubbing and body roll.

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks!
 

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How will you do that? I'm pretty sure they won't fit without adapters. The Nitron Pro springs are standard 2.25" ID racing springs, the track pack shocks (I *think*) still use the stock spring configuration (maybe 1.875" ID?). BWR has springs you could use, though.
 

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Not only will they not fit, the valving on the track pack shocks may not be optimised for your new stiffer shocks. I think you're better off buying a completely new set unfortunately.
 

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I just ordered the nitron singles in the s111 group buy. can't wait to get them. btw, if anyone is interested in trying out the LSS suspension, let me know and you can buy mine once i have the nitrons on.
 

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shay2nak
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How will you do that? I'm pretty sure they won't fit without adapters. The Nitron Pro springs are standard 2.25" ID racing springs, the track pack shocks (I *think*) still use the stock spring configuration (maybe 1.875" ID?). BWR has springs you could use, though.
Not only will they not fit, the valving on the track pack shocks may not be optimised for your new stiffer shocks. I think you're better off buying a completely new set unfortunately.
thanks. I guess the only thing short of buying a new set is to contact Eibach and see if they can help out.
 

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i'm interested to know if there's anything that can be done with the track pack bils
 

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i am seriously thinking about buying the Nitron Pro springs and installing them in place of the stock springs on my track pack. I worry that they will be to stiff at 525 and 650. Will these springs lower the ride height?

Has anyone replaced just the springs in their track pack? Since I'm about to buy new wheels and wider rear tires, I want to lower the car as well and stiffen up the suspension to curb possible rubbing and body roll.

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks!
With your track pack shocks you can lower the car, since the spring perches are threaded, the adjustment is listed on the lotus manual under rear suspension.
On a side note I'm playing with my ride height to get to 120 front on both sides and 130mm Rear with me seating on the car, and I have ohlins DA and I can say it is much better than the LSS even when I have set them permanently to track settings :)
 

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shay2nak
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With your track pack shocks you can lower the car, since the spring perches are threaded, the adjustment is listed on the lotus manual under rear suspension.
On a side note I'm playing with my ride height to get to 120 front on both sides and 130mm Rear with me seating on the car, and I have ohlins DA and I can say it is much better than the LSS even when I have set them permanently to track settings :)
My manual didn't come with the ride height adjustment section. There are 2 ring nuts (don't know what to call them) on each threaded shock. Anyone know why the Bilstein's has 2? Also, is it ok to spray a little bit of WD40 onto the threads to get them going if they are tight?
 

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My manual didn't come with the ride height adjustment section. There are 2 ring nuts (don't know what to call them) on each threaded shock. Anyone know why the Bilstein's has 2? Also, is it ok to spray a little bit of WD40 onto the threads to get them going if they are tight?
Usually two are put on so the bottom one can be tightened against the top one to lock it in place. In reality, they probably tend not to move under load, although it's possible if the car is raised and the suspension is in droop. I was once concerned about having the extra spring perch nut on my formula car and was told by a race prep guy not to worry about it. I upgraded that car to Penskes last year, by one of the top shock guys anywhere (Joe Stimola in Long Island), and the Penskes just came with one spring shock nut per shock.
 

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shay2nak
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Usually two are put on so the bottom one can be tightened against the top one to lock it in place. In reality, they probably tend not to move under load, although it's possible if the car is raised and the suspension is in droop. I was once concerned about having the extra spring perch nut on my formula car and was told by a race prep guy not to worry about it. I upgraded that car to Penskes last year, by one of the top shock guys anywhere (Joe Stimola in Long Island), and the Penskes just came with one spring shock nut per shock.
ah, I see. So, for example, is it ok to remove the 2nd nut on the shock if I need the extra room to lower more?
 

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My manual didn't come with the ride height adjustment section. There are 2 ring nuts (don't know what to call them) on each threaded shock. Anyone know why the Bilstein's has 2? Also, is it ok to spray a little bit of WD40 onto the threads to get them going if they are tight?
What is the best tool to loosen the ring nuts?
 

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shay2nak
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What is the best tool to loosen the ring nuts?
There are 2 wrenches that are included in the tool kit. I guess you use one to loosen the lock nut and the 2nd for the height adjusting nut?

I was planning on lowering the car this Saturday, but I won't have time. Maybe...nah I was going try after work when daylight savings kicks in, but I'll be too tired.
 

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There are 2 wrenches that are included in the tool kit. I guess you use one to loosen the lock nut and the 2nd for the height adjusting nut?

I was planning on lowering the car this Saturday, but I won't have time. Maybe...nah I was going try after work when daylight savings kicks in, but I'll be too tired.
Hm. My kit doesn't have that. I'll have to check with the dealer.

Thanks!
 

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ah, I see. So, for example, is it ok to remove the 2nd nut on the shock if I need the extra room to lower more?
I wouldn't recommend it.... unless you put locktite on the threads

To lower your car, I would recommend the following procedure:

1) You will need a helper on this to take measurements since you have to seat in the car to get the best results, I would recommend at least half tank of fuel.
2) Park your car in level ground, sit in the car and take measurements from the floor to the aluminum frame (take the measurement where the blue dots for lifting the car). Take good notes on these measurements (and preferably in Millimeters)
3) Put your parking brake Raise the car, remove the front wheel, using a marker put a black line across both your threaded rings (and Mark also the shock just above the threaded ring, so you know where you started)
4) loosen the rings and turn them CCW (if viewed from the top, to raise the rings toward the top of the shock), start by turning 2 complete turns (360 degrees) the bottom ring, the one that touches the spring
5) lock the rings against each other by rotating CW the top most ring
6) then repeat and do the other side of the front of the car.
7) Seat in the car after you have lowered both front sides, and take measurements again
8) you should See a difference (I would recommend the LTS ride height 120mm)
9) Once you are done in the front do the rear
10) if you have differences from each side and you want to have them equal you will need to tight or lose the rings again

I'm currently at 120mm both front sides and 125mm at both rears (with me in the car and half tank of gas)

Hope this helps or email me if you have questions:D
 

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As I said before, I really don't think the perches are going to move because they're under a compressive load. It's a lot more critical on a race car and most people omit them on formula cars. However, it you have the extra one to lock it in place , you might as well keep it there. THe locktite idea might not be pretty good once you have it set right.

If you lower the car, you REALLY should try to have it corner weighted. That's what really affects the car's handling balance and should be the ultimate arbiter of getting it right, rather than your approximate ride height measurement. See if you can find a setup shop with alignment scales.
 

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Anyone have a picture of these wrenches? The dealership doesn't fully understand what I'm referring to at the moment, so I may need to find something comparable.
 

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shay2nak
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thanks maagjr & AlanS! Unfortunately I will have to wait till next weekend to try this out. :sad:
 

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I agree with AlanS corner weight is the best way
Since I'm an engineer I like to tweak my cars by my self
just on a side note, after reviewing other peoples corner balance
and having installed the shock as the manual states (the car was biased to the left)
so my 1st movement to balance it was to tight the left rear shock to tranfer the weight to the front right. Then I thight the front left to transfer the weight to the right rear.
I haven't check with actual scales but I can feel a really neutral car, it is on my to do list to get the car weighted at a friends house that has corner scales and see how my set up actually worked in terms of weight
 
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