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I am new to lotus but not to the track, can anyone send me an alignment setup, and anything else that needs to be done for an 05 base level elise. I was told there is a part in the suspension that needs to be changed, does anyone know what that part is?
 

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Replace rear toe-links. Stock alignment settings are fine for a novice. Tires Tires Tires.
 

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This will do just fine:
http://www.sector111.com/track/highly-recommended/dsbrace.cfm
They also have another brace setup:
http://www.sector111.com/track/highly-recommended/rtd2brace.cfm

If you replace the toe links, you'll need an alignment.

I believe my latest alignment is,

-1.6 front camber
0 Toe Front

-2.5 Rear camber
2mm. Toe in rear

This made a big difference in handling. I took all of the shims out up front, but left in the ABS bracket/shim.
Your stock tires should be fine for your first track day. Depending on the track temps/condition, tire pressures are very important. BRGElise has really helped me out with this at the track. Typical cold pressures that seem to work well are 22/23 front, 24/25 rear. It was suggested to me at my last track day by brgelise to start 22 front, 23 passenger rear and 24 driver rear as I was alone in the car. Worked out great for me!
Good luck and have a blast.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Absolute power does what?
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If you're looking to get the most out of your stock power with minimal suspension cost here's what I'd suggest. This is the setup I'm running and for my little 145whp I can hang with just about anything save for a trailered and preped race car. There are virtually no street cars that lap as quick.

As Addertooth said tires. For street/track double duty I'd highly recommend the Toyo R888s. Great tire for the track that's ok on the street. If you want to go all in, and I mean all in, go for the Yoko A005 S01 slicks. Total and complete hero makers. Biggest single upgrade you can make.

But - with tires, especially slicks, you want camber. All you can get. Stock if you take out the ABS shims you'll get about -1.5 up front, closer to -2.5 rear. With street tires (less than R888s) -1.5 is fine, but you really want closer to -2.5 up front (I run -3.5). Your options here are to get the V2 arms from Sector111 (about $500 if I remember) or have your stock ones machined by a shop. I also sent my wheel hubs to Sector for machining as I only got -2.5 with their arms (and wanted -3.5 for my slicks). At 2.5 for R888s and 3.5 for slicks I get very even wear on all tires (and a HUGE amount of grip).

Also as suggested replace your rear toe-links. I did the BOE full links - they aren't easy as you have to drill out the rear frame (not hard - but does take extra work). The Sector111 kit is also well respected (I was visiting BOE hence buying my kit from them).

I'd then use the above settings for toe/caster, my sheet is around somewhere just not sure where. Beyond that for track duty you'll want things like wheel studs (so much quicker to change wheels), harnesses, maybe seats (I did the Tillet B5s and they are a huge upgrade), fire bottle, etc. I'm vowing to myself I'll never supercharge mine as I love smoking GT-Rs with my puny 145 wheel. Love seeing the look when people ask me.

The next thing I'd then consider depending on your track is aero. I know I'm getting quite a lot of aero from my full package and I know it's giving me faster lap times. There are corners I can take flat that no other street car can (and not many race cars). I'm pulling 1.7 latteral Gs in a few corners.

Then next you'll want to look at things like a gPan baffled oil pan and an upgraded fuel tank as if you're pulling high cornering Gs you don't want to cavitate anything.

The great news - your car is most likely MUCH faster than you are, even if you are experienced. I have probably 100 track days and I've taken 6 seconds on my fastest this year. My point is - you can still go faster without more power and majorly expensive mods. Spend your money on you - on seat time!

Hope that helps...

-Ross
 

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I agree on the chamber, i run -3.5 up front as well, although all I needed were the V2 arms to get it.

Rear toe link upgrades?, for me jurys out, I run 005's at the track and I've not had any issues with the stock setup, no after market aero though, so I'm not doing 1.7g's...

Same with fuel surge tanks, no issues if you keep it topped off between sessions.

R888's make decent rain tires while they've got meat on them, which is what I run on the street and in the rain on track. These were my track tires until I went with slicks.

The stock pads need to go, you will roast them once you really start braking...

I run carbotec xp20's all around, everyone's got their own favorites.
 

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Absolute power does what?
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any info on swaybars, i picked up a set of HRE wheels 18,19s, are they too big?
For an Elige or an Evora? Elige yes, for sure - Evora I'm not sure.

And pretty sure everyone has assumed Elige and that's the setup we're giving you. Have no idea on the Evora setup...
 

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For an Elige or an Evora? Elige yes, for sure - Evora I'm not sure.

And pretty sure everyone has assumed Elige and that's the setup we're giving you. Have no idea on the Evora setup...
Ross: Thanks for advice... what are your tire sizes for R888 front and rears.
Have you tried toe out in the front for turning in faster?
What about front sway bar... what's your setting?
Ride height: front and rear?
Scaled car yet?
What is the purpose of rear toe links? Benefits?


I am running Toyo R888: 255/45 17 rears 225/45 16 fronts
Z214 235/45R17 rears--- 205/50R16

Boy!!! I am burning up fender liners even with 195' fronts.
Has anyone removed headlights and replaced with dummy headlight covers?
I am thinking about removing liners adding louvers and foam padding to protect bodywork... any thoughts guys?

What about tranny? Gears etc.
Thanks
 

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Absolute power does what?
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Ross: Thanks for advice.
...
Thanks
Happy to help, let's see if I can answer a few:


What are your tire sizes for R888 front and rears.
Stock sizes, 225/45/17 rear and 195/50/16 front (I do run 245/45/17 rears when I run Hoosiers)

Have you tried toe out in the front for turning in faster?
Yes, I'm pretty sure I'm a 1.0 total to out up front but I'd have to find my sheet to be sure (not an expert here, just trust my alignment guy - works at a race shop, well respected)

What about front sway bar... what's your setting?
I'm on one softer that middle, just can't remember which way that is. I wanted a little less front end as I tended to get understeer before. I haven't adjusted it since I added all the aero but I like where it is.

Ride height: front and rear?
Whatever the Lotus setting for track is, I believe 10mm lower than stock. Just don't remember the exact number (easy to find)

Scaled car yet?
Sorry, not sure what you mean here.

What is the purpose of rear toe links? Benefits?
Strength only. It is a known failure point and while it's somewhat rare I push my car hard and I do it often. She did 24 track days this season which is more time than an F1 car does. Hence upgrading mine. Not a must do but if you do start pushing it at least check the torque on them when you do oil changes, etc. (again, easy to find info here, lots of threads)

Boy!!! I am burning up fender liners even with 195' fronts.
Same here, on my list to replace this winter along with my suspension (most likely the Nitron doubles). If you're pushing hard you'll rub them for sure.

Has anyone removed headlights and replaced with dummy headlight covers?
No specific experience but yes, I've seen this done on fully track/race ready cars. Possibly a Lotus part for the 2-11, not sure it has headlights.

What about tranny? Gears etc.
I'm stock here as that's just outside of what I'd spend money on (save for mine going and having to replace). The most common reason to change here is if you go big power (Rev400 kit or a massive turbo). It seems the stock box is good for about 300hp but not much beyond that.
 
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