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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to switch off my traction control, but the button light does not light up nor do I get any dash indicator lights signaling the deactivation. Anyone have ideas how to check if it is the button itself or the ECU malfunctioning?
 

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Do you have variable traction control too?

If so then it's a little bit wrong in the manual. Pressing and holding the TC button until the button lights up activates the variable TC knob. You then need to turn the knob all the way to the right (clockwise) and at the last position it should light up on the dash and at this point it's fully off.
 

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I tried to switch off my traction control, but the button light does not light up nor do I get any dash indicator lights signaling the deactivation. Anyone have ideas how to check if it is the button itself or the ECU malfunctioning?
I could be wrong but I believe you have to hold the button down for a few seconds.
 

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yuppers. hold it down for like 3 seconds and the dash light will light up. Also easy to test switch by removing the center console cover. Dont even have to take the seats out. Put parking break all the way up. Then remove cupholder. Then you can lift the center console cover ( one screw on each side, will need torx tip) enough to get to the wiring harnesses. Then, hardest part is disconnecting the traction control harness and the emergency brake harness blindly with wrists half dislocated, but should only take like 2 to 4 min. Look at the instructions on sector 111 for replacing the cover with their carbon fiber one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's the first gen traction control, no variable knob.

I have the console removed right now, and noticed the switch has 4 wires. Not sure which ones to test for continuity. I assume 2 are for the TC signal, and the other 2 are for light power. Just don't know which is which.

I held the button down for over 5 seconds, no light on the button or the dash.

I am hoping it is just the switch...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bad Switch, eh? Did you test it somehow first or just do a part swap and hope for the best?

Thanks for the input!
 

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From the wiring diagram it appears that:

solid Green - this will be +12v switched and fused ignition supply.
solid Black - this will be the -12v ground wire.

The other two (coded BU and BG) are both connected to the ECU.

From the diagram you can't really be 100% sure however the actual switch is the BU wire whilst the BG wire looks like it's coming out of the ECU to the led. It definately looks like the BU wire is the 'switch' you should look at.

Not sure on the lotus codes but I would guess BU is blue and BG is blue/green??
What colour wires do you have behind it?
 

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If I remember correctly, the ECU defaults to no traction control if the switch is missing or defective for something like 4 starting cycles. I know this because mine stopped responding after I drove a while with the center console removed, and then replaced the console. Luckily, I never cared about having traction control.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
great info guys, Thanks!

Is there any way to reset the ECU without going to the dealer?
Just unplug the harness or disconnect the battery for a set amount of time?
 

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Did 2006 Elise's have TC as an option?
My buddy swears I have TC, but I disagree.

-Robert
If you have the LSD, you got TC. I'm not sure if the TC option was sold separately.
 

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Hi all,

I can confirm that you can have TC without the LSD option on a 2006 model (I currently have it on my '06 Elise). However, the first thing I do when I start the car is hold that button down for a few seconds until the dash light comes on indicating that the TC is off. Ever since I upgraded from Base Rims to the LSS Rims (with wider tires), the TC is constantly engaging when turning in even the slightest of corners. I expected that the wider tires would cause some issues with the TC, but not to the extent of what I have been experiencing since the wheel upgrade (I have been running these wheels for about a year now).

I apologize for the thread hijack, but this post reminded me of this issue. I have never heard of a solution to this other than to just disengage it. Would an ECU reflash do the trick? Most likely I will just end up disconnecting the switch, but TC would be nice to have in certain situations.

Good luck with your problem as I hope you find a solution.

Cletus
 

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Discussion Starter #16
From the wiring diagram it appears that:

solid Green - this will be +12v switched and fused ignition supply.
solid Black - this will be the -12v ground wire.

The other two (coded BU and BG) are both connected to the ECU.

From the diagram you can't really be 100% sure however the actual switch is the BU wire whilst the BG wire looks like it's coming out of the ECU to the led. It definately looks like the BU wire is the 'switch' you should look at.

Not sure on the lotus codes but I would guess BU is blue and BG is blue/green??
What colour wires do you have behind it?

OK, there are 4 wires, all solid. Blue, Green, Yellow, Black.
There is continuity between blue and black when pressing the button.
No continuity at all between any other wire combination.

I assume the blue and black are the TC signal leads, and the yellow, black are the LED power leads.
So, if I have a good switch, maybe all I need to do is reset the ECU?

Anyway to do that without going to the dealer?
 

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OK, there are 4 wires, all solid. Blue, Green, Yellow, Black.
There is continuity between blue and black when pressing the button.
No continuity at all between any other wire combination.

I assume the blue and black are the TC signal leads, and the yellow, black are the LED power leads.
So, if I have a good switch, maybe all I need to do is reset the ECU?

Anyway to do that without going to the dealer?
I've been told that the dealer has to reset the TC, since it was an option. I guess you'll have to prove to them that you bought it.
 

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OK, there are 4 wires, all solid. Blue, Green, Yellow, Black.
There is continuity between blue and black when pressing the button.
No continuity at all between any other wire combination.

I assume the blue and black are the TC signal leads, and the yellow, black are the LED power leads.
So, if I have a good switch, maybe all I need to do is reset the ECU?

Anyway to do that without going to the dealer?
Black will definately be the ground.
Blue will most likely be the feed from the ECU to pickup the pressing of the switch.
Yellow is likely to be the signal from the ECU to light up the LED on the button to show it's active.

Green will be +12v

Sounds like the switch is good as you've tested the actual movement and continuity. So barring a wiring fault to the ECU I would say it's the ECU no longer looking for the TC button press.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK,
Well I finally got a chance to monkey around a bit more. I tried disconnecting the battery, to see if that reset the ECU. I even tried unplugging the ECU harness. Still no TC disable light on the button or dash. So if my switch is good as we now suspect, it must be an ECU reset issue, eh?

Can anyone confirm if there is a dash light for the TC defeat? Maybe I just have a bad LED in the switch and it is working after all?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK,
Well I finally got a chance to monkey around a bit more. I tried disconnecting the battery, to see if that reset the ECU. I even tried unplugging the ECU harness. Still no TC disable light on the button or dash. So if my switch is good as we now suspect, it must be an ECU reset issue, eh?

Can anyone confirm if there is a dash light for the TC defeat? Maybe I just have a bad LED in the switch and it is working after all?
 
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