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Discussion Starter #1
Doing all the fluids tomorrow for the first time under my ownership (engine oil, tranny fluid, diff fluid, brakes). I searched and came up with most of the info I need but have a few questions.

The owners manual states that transmission fluid capacity (gearbox and rear diff) as 2.3L. Is that 2.3L each or 2.3 combined? Anyone know what the break down is if it's 2.3L combined or do you guys just fill until it spills out? I'll probably just buy 3 quarts of Mobil 1 75W90 since it seems to use the same.

For our S2000 I understand that the 75W90 diff fluid GL-5 is a big no no for the transmission. As I understand the additives in GL-5 rated fluid aren't good for transmission synchros, I don't know if this applies to the Elise or not.

I plan on using the following: How does all this sound to you guys?

-5W40 Royal Purple oil
-M1 M103 filter (part number for the 2ZZ Celica GTS in the book, I figured it's ok)
-M1 75W90 for diff and tranny
-Valvoline Synpower DOT 4

Finally, do you bleed the brakes just like any other car? Suck out the dirty fluid in the reservoir, put in fresh fluid. Start at the caliper furthest from the reservoir pumping up the brakes then opening the bleed screw then closing and repeating etc.

Thanks!
 

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2.3L is the total. Just pump it into the fill hole until it starts to come back out.

The M103 is fine. The M209 fits also and is longer. Some think that's better.
 

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M1 is also what our local dealer uses in the gearbox.
Bleed the brakes with a pressure bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Duh major brain fart, it didn't occur to me that the transmission/diff are the same thing in this car. I'm so used to front engine RWD ;)

I don't have a brake bleeder is it ok to use the pedal method with a helper?
 

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I don't have a brake bleeder is it ok to use the pedal method with a helper?
Yes, but a brake bleeder is just soooo nice. One thing to know is that you can't manual cycle the ABS to purge the fluid in its pump. You need the scan tool that none of us have to do that. Note that I have changed my fluid three times now and have not bothered to do that.

Make sure to bleed the clutch first. For whatever reason, that fluid always looks worse than what comes out of the calipers.
 

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I don't have a brake bleeder is it ok to use the pedal method with a helper?
As andykeck pointed out - just don't let the reservoir get low enough for the system to pull air and you'll be fine.

As cheap as they are, consider getting a bleeder. It makes it a quick, one-man job.
:up:
 

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i got one of the little pump it up tank pressure bleeders via the resivor - its fantastic and makes it a very easy job - i think it was only like 50 bucks - 'tim' posted a link like a year ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so I did the engine oil and transmission/diff it wasn't too bad. Picked up some Amsoil 5W40 European car formula for 8 bucks a qt and the engine seems to idle a lot smoother. Also transmission is less notchy when cold with the M1 75W90 swapped in. I'll do the brakes, change the air filter and put in the blackwatch bar tomorrow.

Thanks for your help guys
 

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As andykeck pointed out - just don't let the reservoir get low enough for the system to pull air and you'll be fine.
:up:
I was inspired by the good weather and this thread to do my brake fluid today. Guess what? I sucked air in the master. The reservoir I was looking at was not that low and the other one sucked air. So now I have clean fluid, lots of bubbles, and no pedal.

Any tips for someone like me? I've gone through a liter of fluid already.
The guy at Autozone suggested finishing the bleed with the engine running, with the obvious caveats.

My clutch works fine, even though I have no brakes and all. Will I be ok if I can get the brakes back, and then bleed the clutch? I was trying to get up the courage to bleed the clutch, but I obviously was not high on confidence.
 

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I was inspired by the good weather and this thread to do my brake fluid today. Guess what? I sucked air in the master. The reservoir I was looking at was not that low and the other one sucked air. So now I have clean fluid, lots of bubbles, and no pedal.

Any tips for someone like me? I've gone through a liter of fluid already.
The guy at Autozone suggested finishing the bleed with the engine running, with the obvious caveats.

My clutch works fine, even though I have no brakes and all. Will I be ok if I can get the brakes back, and then bleed the clutch? I was trying to get up the courage to bleed the clutch, but I obviously was not high on confidence.
I think you really need a pressure bleeder now. Also, you'll have to remove the front calipers and rotate them as the high point is the crossover tube which is above the bleeder.

Clutch will be fine done last, especially as much new fluid as you're pushing through.
 

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Hey, is each of the 4 lines separate? I get lots of bubbles out of all of them. Am I not working through the trapped air?

I guess I don't understand what a pressure bleeder is. I got a little vacuum pump do-hicky at the auto parts store. Will that do in a pinch?
 

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Hey, is each of the 4 lines separate? I get lots of bubbles out of all of them. Am I not working through the trapped air?

I guess I don't understand what a pressure bleeder is. I got a little vacuum pump do-hicky at the auto parts store. Will that do in a pinch?
Yes - they're separate from the ABS module out to the individual wheels, not from the master cylinder.

A vacuum bleeder likely isn't going to cut it. A pressure bleeded works exactly opposite: a chamber is filled with brake fluid, attached to the master cyldiner, and then the air in the chamber is pressurized to force fluid into the master cylinder and brake system.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where the heck is the mc in the Elise? I saw a write up thread and I could've sworn it was in the front near one of the grills but that's the radiator. Do you have to remove a panel or was that write up for an Exige?
 

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Driver's side "boomerang".

I've decided to try a conventional "pump brake 3 times, bleed, repeat" today, as I believe my vaccuum bleeder was pulling air from around the bleeder screw threads. May not be as bad as I believed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Ok so I guess it's under the panel on the driver side. There were no directions on how to remove it. IIRC it's just an allen head bolt holding the cover on?
Owner's manual?
:shrug:

Elise: remove single allen bolt, lift outer edge a little, and pull towards fender.
 

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Got my brakes back!! Used another liter of fluid. The driver's front wheel seemed to have all the bubbles in it. Others cleared up real quick. Passenger's front actually expelled dirty fluid...after already doing one liter!

I did a lot of "don'ts" and ignored a lot of directions. Perhaps I'll write up an "idiot's guide", since I have now experienced just about everything that can be done wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got all my stuff out and got the access panel for the MC off, took off 1 rear wheel only to realize the freaking nut is a 11mm and I only had a 10 and a 12 wrench. Also how did you guys get the access panel back on? I had to loosen the 2 bolts that kind of sandwich the plastic grill down so I could wedge the leading edge of the panel back in but there's no way to tighten the 2 bolts down once the panel is on obviously.

I'll grab a 11 and report back. The fluid was filthy though. By the way, where is the slave assembly for the clutch, I looked around for it while changing the oil/transmission fluid and couldn't locate it.
 
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