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Get an engine hoist/cherry picker, label and disconnect all tubes/hoses wires connected to the engine/transmission. Hook up the cherry picker/hoist, disconnect the axles, remove engine mounts and pull the engine out and set it on a wooden crate, remove the bolts from the transmission case that hold the bell housing to the block. I have pulled a few transmissions out of similar I4 setups with more room and its proved to be easier to remove the entire thing than to do it inside the car... Plus, I don't think there is much room to do it in the Lotus. I could be wrong and I am happy to be corrected but this would be my approach to handling such a task. Do not get discouraged, its not that hard, just label everything and it will go back together like it was never apart.
Also I assume you are going to put a new trany on and its much easier to get the splines for the clutch lined up if its outside the car, also you can actually move the clutch disk and or bend the end of the input shaft if you try and rest the weight of the transmission on it while trying to insert it into the engine/clutch.
 

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also, get a box of 'baggies' and a marker to mark where the bolts came from, in sets.
"lets see, was that a bit longer bolt for this hole..." etc.
putting everything back together starts when and how you take it apart.
good luck
sam
 

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Here is the entirety of the guidance given in the Lotus Service Manual:


FJ.5 - TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT

The transmission may be removed from below after removing the left hand rear suspension assembly,
both driveshaft assemblies and the exhaust system. Release the clutch release fork, gearchange cables, earth
braid and reverse light switch.

The engine must be supported to allow the engine and transmission mountings to be disconnected and
the power unit tilted as necessary to allow the transmission to be withdrawn. The clutch bell housing is secured
to the engine by 8 bolts as shown overleaf.

Page 14


The next page has a diagram of the bell housing torques, but I can't figure out how to copy it except as a tiff.
 

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The drive shafts are difficult to remove from the transmission. There are some threads that talk about this.
 

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And here is the Service Manual on driveshaft removal/replacement:


Driveshaft Assembly Replacement

Removing a driveshaft assembly from the transmission will result in some loss of transmission lubricant.
It may be preferred to drain off some oil via the transmission drain plug beforehand.

1. Remove transmission drain plug and drain off approx. 1 litre of oil into a clean container for re-use.
2. Remove the rear road wheel.
3. Remove the split pin from the hub nut and remove the nut and washer (right hand thread on both sides).
Before the shaft can be withdrawn from the hub, the top ball joint plinth must be released from the hub
carrier (note camber shims fitted), and the toe-link ball joint separated from the carrier. This will allow the
hub carrier to be pulled away sufficiently for the driveshaft to be withdrawn, but take care not to strain the
brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
4. LH Driveshaft: The left hand driveshaft inboard joint is retained in the transmission by a round section
circlip. The joint may be removed by applying a shock pull to the C.V. joint body using a slide hammer
with a forked end.
CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to remove the inboard C.V. joint from the transmission by pulling on the
driveshaft. The balls of the inboard joint are restrained for transit purposes only, by a circlip at the end of
the ball tracks. Applying an extension force to the joint will damage the balls and require joint replacement.
Apply pressure only to the outer body of the joint.
RH Driveshaft: The right hand driveshaft incorporates a bearing for the extension shaft and it is this which
retains the shaft in the transmission. Remove the two bolts securing the bearing bracket, and withdraw
the complete shaft assembly.
When withdrawing either driveshaft from the transmission, take care not to damage the output oil seal.
6. Before re-fitting a driveshaft, first renew the round section circlip on the end of the left hand inboard joint
spigot shaft, and lubricate the circlip with grease. Also, check the condition of the transmission output seal,
and renew if necessary. Lubricate the lip of the seal with transmission oil, and grease the corresponding
shoulder on the driveshaft (C.V. joint) spigot, to reduce the danger of damaging the seal on assembly.
7. Carefully insert the driveshaft into the transmission, with, on the left hand shaft, the two ends of the circlip
positioned lowermost, and rotate the shaft if necessary to engage the splines. Press the inboard joint outer
until a click indicates the engagement of the retaining circlip, if necessary using a brass drift and hammer.
Pull on the body to ensure its security. On the right hand shaft, fit the bolts securing the extension shaft
bearing to the engine mounted bracket, and torque to 64 Nm.
8. Fit the outer end of the shaft into the hub, and refit the top ball joint plinth to the hub carrier with the camber adjustment shim pack in position. Apply Permabond A130 (A912E7033V) to the threads of the two
socket head bolts and torque to 45 Nm.
9. Refit the toe-link into the hub carrier and torque the retaining nut to 55 Nm.
10. Fit the washer and castellated nut to the driveshaft, apply the parking brake and tighten the nut to 220
Nm. Fit a new split pin to lock the nut.
11. With the car on a level surface, top up the transmission oil to the filler/level plug hole.
Page 12
sn_fj_cyclone.indd 12


Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lotus Trans Removal

Thank you very much for the information. I had planned to remove only the Transmission from below. Its good to see the step by step from Lotus.
Now, the new transmission had been in transit for 10 days and the shipper CANNOT LOCATE IT ON THEIR DOCKS! NICE!:panic:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OE Gearbox

There is nothing wrong with the OE gearbox, the new box has LSD. I will keep the OE or sell it not sure. Car has 6k miles on it half was a trip to San DIego from Houston and back.
 

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Pulling the shafts intact with the lower A-arms and hubs will shortcut things a bit and keep you from having to jack with the ball joint. No alignment will be needed - just keep track of the camber shims and don't slacken the toe-link adjusters.

My .02.
 
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