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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, have a '12 Evora S with the manual transmission. Car has been great, but I've noticed what seems to be an intermittent inability to shift from 3rd into 2nd at times. Sometimes it works fine, and sometimes it just will not shift into 2nd no matter what, it feels like there is something mechanical just completely blocking it from engaging.

I seem to recall somebody mentioning the same issue in the past, but i couldn't find it using search. FWIW, I had my clutch master cylinder replaced back in February (under the manufacturer recall), which also involved a fluid flush according to my dealer. That said, I've noticed this issue before the flush/MC replacement, I just never bothered to bring it to the dealer's attention.

Any insights out there from you guys?
 

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I've noticed it as well, especially under hard acceleration or high revs in general. I haven't done it, but it may be as simple as a cable adjustment.

The big thing to check, is make sure your shifter always springs back to the center when in neutral. If you see the shifter getting stuck to one side or the other, it's your shifter cables binding. That would be a warranty thing and it's major work(interior comes out)

Iv had my cables replaced under warranty. So I know it's not that for me.


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Discussion Starter #3
OK. I have not experienced any binding thankfully. Is adjusting the cables also an interior removal job, or relatively straightforward?

Mine was one of the last MY12s off the line, so I know I have the "updated" cables, FWIW.
 

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I had exactly the same problem when my car was new. Dealer did an adjustment at first service and shifting action has been flawless since. AFAIK the adjustment is not difficult, but it's probably best done by a dealer.
 

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Adjustment is key...it takes someone who knows what they're doing, but it makes a huge difference.
 

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Correct, the adjustment just requires you popping the AC control panel out and lifting the leather boot. All of the adjustments can be done within this area. If I get brave and try it, I'll post pics. I'd have the dealer do it, but mine is way past the warranty mileage.
 

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I've noticed it as well, especially under hard acceleration ....

I have also noted difficulty a couple times, between 2nd and 3rd gear, when hard accelerating or decelerating.
It went right into gear, after I eased off, so I attributed it to flexing in the motor/transmission mounts causing the linkage to be misaligned.
Maybe the firmer S mounts would help ?
 

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Agreed, the engine flex definitely changes the range of the cables. The newer mounts would help, but adjusting cables would be cheaper. You essentially alter the cable lengths so that the flex no longer alters their range
 

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I've noticed it as well, especially under hard acceleration ....

I have also noted difficulty a couple times, between 2nd and 3rd gear, when hard accelerating or decelerating.
It went right into gear, after I eased off, so I attributed it to flexing in the motor/transmission mounts causing the linkage to be misaligned.
Maybe the firmer S mounts would help ?
Same here, I have a S and 3rd to 2nd can be a problem at higher speed unless you take more time and keep clutch down for a bit longer than you think is needed.
 

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TBD, thanks for posting that. I actually remember reading it and it inspired me to try the adjustment as it didn't look too bad. We'll see if I get to it in the next couple of weeks. If I do, pics and another short write-up will follow.
 

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Mine was shifting from 2->3 and 3->2 while on it (mainly at the track). It wasn't always, but it was enough to be an issue. Mine was upgraded to the 2012 cables and adjusted properly (Thanks Brian!) and I haven't seen it since.
 

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Ordered the 2012 upgraded cables; installing those and new fluids this week. I will report the changes in shifting
 

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Well, I tried adjusting my cables today via the center tunnel and had an epic fail. Basically, it's almost impossible to get to the left/right cable as I couldn't get the spherical nut off (It wouldn't rotate off easily after removing the lock nut like the fore/aft cable which I removed as practice). Then in the process, I lost 1 of the 5 clips holding the metal cover (no biggie), but wait it gets better. I also lost a 4 inch 8mm box wrench that I was using to try to remove the sperical nut off. Luckily it fell through a couple of openings and is sitting on carpet (and not hindering cables or anything else!). So, no noise when I drive around. I basically have to rip the interior out to get to it, that's not happening any time soon.

However, I don't give up easily. Next week I will attempt again, but this time I will try the engine bay route under the air box. I'm pretty handy at taking the air box top and MAF connector off as I swap out K&N filters every 5K. So, stay tuned...
 

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My issue was 4rth to 3rd when new. Seems to mostly be related to human error braking and catching throttle a bit much. Those Piloti shoes are gone now and since trans oil change its a rare event. Will take a REAL guru to finesse a 1/4 turn at some point.
 

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2nd attempt today yields success! Removed air box (keep an eye out for zip ties under it that you have to cut), then pulled a simple R Clip (yeah that easy!) holding left/right cable in place, loosened lock nut rotated 2 full rotations (shortening it), tested car at stand still, noticed improvement, assembled and test drove. Noticed easier second gear engagement under load which was my issue. I didn't have a chance to snap pics, but I pirated the following one from another thread.

This approach seemed much easier for me. However, there is one distinct disadvantage. You can't test drive it until you put everything back together. The interior approach allows you to adjust and drive (with the center tunnel still ripped open). Unfortunately, you can't adjust and then drive without an air box!

So, if you can get the interior cable off, that's the better approach. Otherwise, engine bay seemed easier and less stressful.
 

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Second has always been "iffy" to locate whether from first or third.

A helluva lot better than the Europa, where reverse is right there, fully unprotected, ready to make those great grinding sounds.
 

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Glad it worked out so well. It is easier from the interior, though you almost certainly lose one og the clips on he panel. And it helps if you have thin knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just closing the loop on my original post, dealer adjusted my cables last week under warranty last week, and it is shifting better than ever with no hangups.
 
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