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Discussion Starter #1
I realize this is yet another Evora battery drain thread, but I searched through the forums and couldn't find another thread that addresses my specific issue.

I was away for 3 weeks, and upon return when I went to unlock the car, found that I could not do so with the remote, so I used the mechanical lock and entered the car that way, but none of the lights on the dashboard or the dome light, etc. came on. After consulting the owner's manual, I saw the note that “Starting difficulties may be encountered after an unattended period of 3 weeks”, and reading these forums, I saw that this was a common problem.

I removed the battery and attached it to a trickle charger, and returned the battery to 12.8V (which it still reads now), and reinstalled it back in the Evora, but I am still unable to get any power anywhere in the car -- none of the interior lights come on when the door is opened, the remote fobs don't work, etc. I even tried resetting the inertia switch (although I don't see how that would have been triggered). I checked as many of the relevant fuses as I could think of, and found all of them to be good/intact.

Before I call my local dealer about this, I was hoping to tap into the collective expertise of these boards, and that someone else here might be able to suggest something else that I can check/test (and hopefully fix) myself.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Well, I've checked the connections several times -- I definitely have the cables connected to the correct polarity terminals (frankly, the battery cables on the Evora aren't long enough to connect the battery the wrong way round), and the clamps are tight, with no wiggle. I even used a wire brush to clean off the terminals.

It's an Interstate battery, so I think the battery was replaced once already (I bought the car used last July, with 850 miles on it).
 

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So...positive on the right when installed?



On my car at least (and the one in that picture), there was no rubber cover on the positive terminal (right), but there was a rubber cover on the negative (left). Confused me initially.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, positive on the right, with two red cables coming off the terminal, as in that photo. Having a rubber cover on just the negative terminal must be the standard on the Evora, as that was the case for me as well.
 

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Simple test: Try disconnecting the ground cable to the battery (leaving the hot side attached). Then lightly touch the ground cable to the (negative) battery terminal. Is there any sign of sparking? If so, the systems in the car are drawing some current. If not, the battery is dead or a major fuse is blown. Just because you see 12 + volts across the battery terminals does not mean the battery has any cranking power.
 

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What he said!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks -- I'll give that a try when I get home tonight.

Do you have any suggestions for which fuse is the most likely culprit (assuming it is a fuse)? I don't have my owner's manual in the office with me today, so I don't have the fuse diagrams to reference, but I feel like I checked all the major battery-related fuses, and they all seemed fine.

Sorry for all the noob questions -- this is my first foray into the wonderful world of hand-made British cars :UK:, and haven't had to muck around with the electrics much with my previous vehicles.
 

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I removed the battery and attached it to a trickle charger, and returned the battery to 12.8V (which it still reads now), and reinstalled it back in the Evora, but I am still unable to get any power anywhere in the car -- none of the interior lights come on when the door is opened, the remote fobs don't work, etc.
The same thing has happened to me, twice. I was not able to bring my battery back enough to crank with my battery tender alone, but I was able to jump start the car both times. After a drive, the battery was charged enough for the battery tender to finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did try jumping the car, without success, although that was before I removed the battery to attach it to the trickle charger.
 

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Simple test: Try disconnecting the ground cable to the battery (leaving the hot side attached). Then lightly touch the ground cable to the (negative) battery terminal. Is there any sign of sparking? If so, the systems in the car are drawing some current. If not, the battery is dead or a major fuse is blown. Just because you see 12 + volts across the battery terminals does not mean the battery has any cranking power.
Best way is to just invest in a 100A 12V auto battery load tester. They work great for evaluating the health of your battery. Don't be fooled by the voltage as they are unreliable indicators for capacity. I'd loan you mine if you were local to me. They're cheap. Harbor Freights has the exact one I've got for only $25 bucks.
 

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Simple test: Try disconnecting the ground cable to the battery (leaving the hot side attached). Then lightly touch the ground cable to the (negative) battery terminal. Is there any sign of sparking? If so, the systems in the car are drawing some current.
And try not to think of all the electronics that are connected to that circuit when you're making those sparks... :rolleyes:

If not, the battery is dead or a major fuse is blown. Just because you see 12 + volts across the battery terminals does not mean the battery has any cranking power.
I suspect a fuse: there's a big 'un right on the battery lead that will isolate the battery entirely. Would explain why you can't jump it.

Might also check the ground strap is connected at the other end.

Not totally unheard-of for a three-year-old battery to die completely, but might as well cover the bases before you buy a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I suspect a fuse: there's a big 'un right on the battery lead that will isolate the battery entirely. Would explain why you can't jump it.
Sure enough, the 150A fuse on the battery lead was the problem -- I replaced that, and everything worked fine again (well, apart from my stereo settings getting wiped).

I suspect that I may have blown the fuse when I tried to jump it, and had I just tried trickle-charging the battery first, that might have been enough to fix the problem -- I'll definitely keep that in mind should this happen again (I use the car as my daily driver, so I don't anticipate it will happen -- the car sitting idle for > 3 weeks was a very rare situation).

Thanks to everyone for the help.
 
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