[zvezdah1]

HI All,
This info had been requested, these are the pages in the manual concerning suspension geometry.

Chris

 

[zvezdah1]

2

 

[atyclb]

cool that they provide that info in the manual

 

[hermanslotus]

Chris,

Thanks for that post.

Mitch

 

[Craigy]

Out of interest, here's the same information but from the S1 Manual.

 

[Craigy]

p88 of the S1 manual..

 

[Craigy]

p89 of the S1 manual..

 

[Vantage]

Thanks Chris.

Is there tire pressure information for our car?

 

[Craigy]

I'm quite surprised at how similar these geos are!

From what I can see, the Fed elise weighs about 150Kg more, and has a little more toe in at the rear, and... that's about all!

Craigy

 

[jtanner]

I'm quite surprised by how little camber the stock specs call for, even with the LSS model. Seems like there's definitely room to tweak these settings for track/autocross duty.

Jim

 

[Robert Puertas]

Jtanner,
what's really amazing is how little static camber the car has vs. the amount of camber it generates in compression.
The car has a great camber curve. In my experience driving Pat Crew's Nitron-equipped, supercharged S1 at North Weald, I can tell you that tire wear is even and flat, and there was no shoulder roll-over. North Weald is pretty abrasive, and most cars would have thrashed their tires with what I did to that poor car. The Elise however showed nice even tire wear. Even Simon Cullen's basically stock S1 Elise was gentle on the tires in a very stressful environment. I think we'll all be amazed at this car's abilities...

 

[Surferjer]

I beat mine up good at the autocross on Sunday, inflated to standard, and had very little "wall" wear at all. I'm thinking of going the -1.0 camber adjustment and putting on Hoosiers/SSRs. I'm also thinking of waiting for Randy to blaze the trail, but he's getting LSS so that doesn't help me anyway...

 

[khamai]

Just a suggestion... but I'm sure Becker & friends at Hethel have tried most every alignment setting possible. It seems to me that it would make sense to ask them about how to optimize grip or whatever handling characteristic you desire before changing stuff. Remember these guys are racers and have tested this car to death (as in performance testing and optimization - not "comfort" testing).

Tony Shute will be at LOG. Might be a good opportunity to ask him.

Why to a bunch of trial & error testing when someone with so much expertise has done it.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[tonykomo]

Here's mine, and it's much better feeling than the standard. Designed for oversteer.

 

[Arno]

Oh my god.. Tony, did your car actually have 3mm of toe IN on each front wheel???

Wow.. That must have driven quite 'interestingly'...

Bye, Arno.

 

[tonykomo]

Yeah, welcome to "factory setup". Basically once the cars are built, they get 30 mins max on the Hunter machine. It took a good 2 hours to get my car perfectly setup.

So, let that be a warning to everyone. As soon as you collect your car, take it straight in to the geo done. I guarantee it will be out by miles!

 

[ConeFusion]

Tony: If I read your alignment sheet correctly, your caster is significantly less than the specs, and it wasn't adjusted. Did you consider getting that adjusted? Do you have an explanation why it's so far outside the recommended range in the first place?

 

[tonykomo]

My motorsports mechanic did not feel there was a need to change it.

 

[tonykomo]

BTW, the before figures were AFTER I change the suspension to Nitrons with a lower ride height and the wheels to a much wider width.

 

[Charles Rozier]

Just a suggestion... but I'm sure Becker & friends at Hethel have tried most every alignment setting possible. It seems to me that it would make sense to ask them about how to optimize grip or whatever handling characteristic you desire before changing stuff. Remember these guys are racers and have tested this car to death (as in performance testing and optimization - not "comfort" testing).

Tony Shute will be at LOG. Might be a good opportunity to ask him.

I have several years of track experience but wanted to keep my car reasonable for New England roads, so I ordered the standard suspension. I wondered about mild track tweaks also. Mark Starr at Hunting Ridge Motors asked Nick Adams for me, and here's Nick's response:

--------
.... the standard settings are pretty good for track use, we don't really compromise the geometry for road use. The best suggestion would be for him to drive his car as supplied and see how he gets on with it and to then make adjustments from there to suit his particular driving style or preferences. For example, if he finds the car tends to understeer a little too much he could increase the front negative camber a touch, but at the expense of high speed stability and braking stability. To be honest, I would always suggest someone tries to alter his driving to suit the car which is often the better course to follow as you tend to take good driving habits with you unlike upgrades to the car.
An inexperienced driver can quickly screw up a cars set-up badly trying to dial out issues which are really down to poor driving technique.... The same goes for tyre pressures, start off with the factory settings, 1.8F/2.0R bar cold and see how it goes. As far as shaving tyres goes it will help lap times, but it's expensive unless you really need the tenths it will achieve, ie: racing. A more cost effective solution for track days would be the sports suspension option, but then again the road ride quality will suffer....

--------

It would be great if someone would also ask at LOG and post any responses.

Charles