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Just a wild a-- guess. Bad fuel injectors won't throw a code but can have unpredictible symptoms. The OEM injectors have a definite life, maybe they are bad. Another possibility is a restricted exhaust. That can cause a drop off in power. A plugged cat can do that.
David Teitelbaum
 

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More then likely the bracket on the throttle pedal that the cable attaches to is bent and you are not getting true full throttle when you put the pedal down to the mat.
Common issue on the V8, the convoluted (in my opinion anyway) throttle linkage puts considerable strain on the connection point @ the pedal bending it over time.
Check this before getting crazy chasing ecu gremlins...
Real easy to check the throttle position sensor and see if you can get 100%. Without a code you have to go hunting and you will not always guess correctly. I say start with the simple stuff and then work your way up to the more complicated (expensive) possibilities. I would start with fuel. Check the fuel pressure. A low fuel pressure does not throw a code. Maybe a stuck pressure regulator? Then maybe a bad injector. Maybe a dirty fuel filter.
David Teitelbaum
 

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The throttle position reads 100% and it's not a bracket issue.

Does the knock sensor often fail and if so does it ever fail by becoming too sensitive resulting in the ECU getting a lot of knock signals and having it retard timing? I guess I could simply make a test run with my laptop connected and check the knock counts.
There is also a rough road sensor that is supposed to cancel knocks caused by rough roads. But if either one was going off you would see stored codes, if not a lite MIL. Bad fuel could cause the knock sensor to operate but again, you would see codes.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Hi guys,

I did a little data logging during a couple test pulls and wanted to get some insight from the team. I'll post a graph with some data after I re-take it with fewer channels captured to improve the sampling rate.

All the mundane stuff is fine (throttle position sensor reads 100%, temperatures are good, etc). Also, the mixture is fine and the O2 sensor readings indicate no hint of fuel starvation and at wide open throttle and full boost the O2 sensor is reading a little rich which I'm sure is intentional to protect the engine. The recorded boost is exactly where it should be.

However, the timing advance does indeed look pretty strange. At low load and partial throttle leading up to the pull I have about 28 degrees. When I put the hammer down the advance is retarded and drops back to 16 degrees by the time the RPM's are at 3000 and boost is building. When at 5000 RPM and full boost the timing advance is down to only 9 degrees. After a gear change and hammer down again the advance comes down to 7.5 degrees at 5500 RPM and full boost.

With such retarded timing at high RPMs it's no wonder I have no acceleration at speed.

So now for a couple questions -- what kind of timing advance should I be expecting at reasonable engine RPM's? I'd expect far more than I'm seeing, but I'm not sure what is typical since I don't have a baseline that recorded this on my car.

What are likely culprits for my ECU retarding the timing so badly? The knock sensor seems like a primary input the ECU uses to retard timing, so is it susceptible to failing in a way that makes it falsely trigger?

Knut
Things that affect spark control:
engine speed
engine position
MAP
BARO
throttle position
coolant temp
inlet air temp
knock sensor
wheel speed

It could be you did not have a problem often enough or serious enough yet to store a code and lite the MIL, it may take a few cycles. It could be an intermittent problem from one of the sensors and although they all look like they are working one of them drops out of range and the ECU defaults to a stored value. Another possibility is the ECU is is having internal problems and cannot output an error code for it. The knock sensor can be tested directly by knocking the motor with an bar and watching the output. Same thing with the R/R sensor. Might be time to substitute an known, good ECU. If you can, graph each sensor and look for spikes and drop-outs. If you don't see any it leads back to the ECU.
David Teitelbaum
 

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That's a great thought Atwell; even if Knut's problem is different; low, or unstable power to the ECU certainly could manifest in odd ways. Wonder what the current draw is on the ECU and how is it grounded.
:clap:
There is a main grounding point at one of the upper bolts on the bell housing for the engine wiring harness. Grounding isn't a big problem on the V-8's unless someone didn't put all of the wires back. The only good data logger I know of that can also do snapshots is a Tech 1. Bad power or grounds would manifest itself in other problems too and would not necessarily be so repeatable. One of the subtle clues here is that everything was running fine and all of a sudden this problem appeared and is very repeatable. Something changed and is of such nature that it can't or won't change back. At least you will know when you fixed it! When you have an intermittent you can't be sure for a while, always wondering if it will come back! Was any service work of any kind done just before the symptoms appeared?
David Teitelbaum
 

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What kind of map values are you seeing? I think it would be helpful if you made a list of all the pertinent sensor values during a pull and posted the values here so we could evaluate them.
Refer to my previous post (16)
If any of the inputs mentioned are not within range it would cause the timing to be reduced to reduce power and protect the motor. You are just going to have to examine each sensor to find one causing the problem. Instead of driving the car it may be more useful to use a dyno if you can get on one. My first guess would be IAT and MAP but reduced fuel pressure could be causing this and you would not necessarily see an error code.
David Teitelbaum
 

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What kind of map values are you seeing? I think it would be helpful if you made a list of all the pertinent sensor values during a pull and posted the values here so we could evaluate them.
Refer to my previous post (16)
If any of the inputs mentioned are not within range it would cause the timing to be reduced to reduce power and protect the motor. You are just going to have to examine each sensor to find one causing the problem. Instead of driving the car it may be more useful to use a dyno if you can get on one. My first guess would be IAT and MAP but that should throw codes. Reduced fuel pressure could be causing this and you would not necessarily see an error code.
David Teitelbaum
 

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The way the chart is posted, with the banner along the bottom covering the legend, I can't figure out what line is what. You are correct, there is no direct input for fuel pressure and I also am not sure what the ECU would see that would tell it to affect timing because of it. Of course that could explain why there are no error codes but still doesn't explain what is messing up the timing. The good news is fuel pressure is easy to check. Hard to believe it is a sensor since any values out of range are supposed to log an error. For weird problems like this, one of the best methods is to substitute known, good components and hope you get lucky quickly. Is there *anything* that was done to the car prior to this behavior occurring? That can give you a clue as to where to begin. The Tech 1 can be hooked up to a PC for data logging but it requires the proper cables and software. I don't know if it is even obtainable anymore.
David Teitelbaum
 

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I was just grasping at straws hoping to uncover some clue. At this point we have to assume a hard failure since the problem seems repeatable and it occurred on it's own. I got the legend but the colors are confusing and the "stuttering" makes it hard to interpret. As you mention, we are just guessing the timing is the problem since we don't have a baseline for "normal". Since there are no error codes (and there wouldn't be for low fuel pressure) I still say you should start there.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Good troubleshooting skills. My big question is why did you not get any error codes on the pre-post O2 sensors for the bad cat? That would have lead you directly to the source of the problem. Even with all of the error capabilities built into the engine management system you still have to use basic troubleshooting skills. At least you were persistent and didn't give up!
David Teitelbaum
 
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