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I can’t speak from experience to the ‘do/do not’ reasons for rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise ~1/4 turn to reset the camshaft tolerance pins, but I would say that the torque applied counterclockwise to the crank bolt would be negated (ultimately) by the number of clockwise revolutions needed to set the cambelt tension later.

The service manual does say “The engine should be turned only in the normal direction of rotation; i.e. clockwise as viewed from the front. Turning the engine backwards causes cam drive loading to be applied to the belt tensioners, and may result in loss of valve timing due to a cam belt jumping teeth.”

If you decide to rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise ~1/4 revolution to begin the reset process, when the notch/vane on the crankshaft pulley is aligned to the crank position sensor hole, install the crankshaft locking pin and camshaft tolerance pins in the ‘good’ left bank. Then, you could use a relatively inexpensive ($15~$20) USB endoscope/borescope to help see where the alignment hole(s) in the wayward right bank camshaft(s) is/are positioned relative to the access/alignment holes on the cam cover/bearing cap. Finding out which direction to slowly rotate the camshaft (once the cambelt is removed) will allow you then to use one hand to rotate the camshaft (using a 18mm box wrench) and the other hand to install the camshaft tolerance pin when aligned. Much better than having to guess which direction to rotate the camshaft, and it should (hopefully) only be a few degrees of rotation to achieve hole alignment.

The other option is to do as you stated (reset the cams), which involves removing the intake plenum to gain access to the cam cover.

Good luck! Just take it slow and be methodical. It’s supposed to be a hobby, right? 😊
 

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@Patmandu
I've experienced the loud ticking sound after more than a month or so of not having run the engine. It's incredibly nerve-wracking, and I'd imagine even more so after a belt change! It finally went away after about 30~60 seconds. The longest minute ever...
However, if the engine otherwise sounded strong (good idle, not lumpy), I think it's probably the lifter(s) as others have described.
 
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