[MattG]

Well, I don't typically like talking about my designs before an actual prototype is built, but I already let the cat out of the bag on this one so what the heck. Enough people know I've been working on this, and the protos are due later this week, so here goes. Below is a computer generated image of a V1 detector mount I've come up with for the Elise. It mounts where the interior light is, without any drilling or other permanent modifications required. The original light then snaps into the front of the detector mount as you can see in the image. The material is black anodized aluminum, laser cut and precision formed. The Valentine itself is held in a 'theft resistant' manner, though I may change that depending on how the prototype works out.

I'll be at WCLM if anyone wants to get a closer look at it then, or catch me at this Saturday's autocross in Marina (CA).

All that business-like stuff (pricing, etc) is not worked out yet (forgive me, I'm an engineer first and foremost).

Comments are always welcome!

Oh, and to answer the first question on everyone's minds - the unit weighs approximately .22 pounds (excluding V1 and light) if Solidworks is to be believed, I'll verify that myself when I get the proto.

 

[Rugbyduck]

That looks great! My concern would be that the unit might need to be a bit higher to "clear" the rear clam view. Thoughts???:shrug: What is on the front of the case?

 

[MattG]

That looks great! My concern would be that the unit might need to be a bit higher to "clear" the rear clam view. Thoughts???:shrug:

Perhaps. I wanted to minimize the visual impact, and my working assumption was that the rear clamshell was radar-transparent (what little would actually be blocking, that is) and that rear laser was not a threat.

What is on the front of the case?

That's the Elise's interior light.

 

[Rugbyduck]

Ah ha! I just put my V1 in , so I am not as well versed in the debate of placement as others are. I must say, that is very well done!:clap:

 

[cbracer]

Yeah, I'd like an option for 1/2" higher placement. I'm a Pro/E guy,.... but this is such a needed product that I'll accept your Solidworks model If you need help with pricing/selling/distribution let me know. I've done similar stuff in this field. cheers,
-Christopher

 

[codymac]

:clap:

Looking forward to the prototype.

I'd prefer to lose the box and moving the light that far forward, but it's a pleasant solution regardless. Not that you're looking for feedback, but...

Will it clear a harness bar? Which ones?

I'd advise against colored anodizing, especially black. Colored anodizing has a hard life in sunlight - I've had black pieces that have faded in under a year and it really ruins the cosmetics.

 

[MattG]

Yeah, I'd like an option for 1/2" higher placement. I'm a Pro/E guy,.... but this is such a needed product that I'll accept your Solidworks model If you need help with pricing/selling/distribution let me know. I've done similar stuff in this field. cheers,
-Christopher

I used Pro/E for over a decade before finding myself in a situation where I had to use Solidworks. Really fell in love with it. These days, I'm 50% Solidworks (2006), 50% Pro/E (Wildfire2.0), so keeping up to speed on both but given the choice, SW is it! Thanks for the offer of help, I may take you up on it.

Codymac, moving the light forward was necessary for the way this is mounted (that'll become clear once I post pics showing the innards). I could move it back an inch or so, do you think that'd be better? It'd probably have to move down a little bit at the same time for structure though.

I'm not sure about harness bars, I'll look into it. Thanks for the anodizing tip too!

 

[Randy Chase]

Matt, in case you are not aware, there are two sizes of V1 cases. The old school case was thicker.

 

[ArchRival]

FYI on light fastness of anodizing dyes:

Light fastness is determined by 2 factors.

The first is a properly done sealing step.

The second is the light fastness of the dye itself. All dyes have a light-fastness rating to help the specifier select the correct dye for a given application.

For example, a part that is used in the dark doesn't need light fastness.

There are a whole host of blacks made by Sandoz, for example, the largest producer of such dyes, that have slightly different trace hues that can be seen by people with acute color vision (such as my wife) but not me. They also have a large range of light-fastness ratings.

I have manufactured literally millions of parts designed to be used outdoors with very little problem.

The tricks are to carefully select the dye that you want (many anodizers only use one stock black dye that is usually chosen for color qualities, not light fastness) good sealing, and careful instruction to the vendor to inform him of your requirements.

Don't forget that there are quality vendors as well as the budget variety.

 

[codymac]

FYI on light fastness of anodizing dyes:

Thanks - good to know!
:up:

 

[6i9]

Would traffic behind you be able to see the display?

 

[Randy Chase]

Would traffic behind you be able to see the display?

You would plug in the remote which turns off the display.

 

[kestrel74]

Looks clean !! If there would be no interference with the rear clam in detecting lazer, I'd be interested. Any idea of $$ ??

 

[Zoomie]

Very slick! I'd buy one.

 

[MickOpalak]

That positioning is very close to how I have mine. I put velcro on the bottom of the V1 unit and a small strip of it on the black plastic above the stock interior light. The back of the V1 attaches here and the front of the V1 rests on my harness bar. I built a little black cardboard cover for it so that wandering eyes won't be able to tell what it is. I then use the remote unit mounted on the dash to see the readout. It works great and I can easily move the V1 to my wife's car because its only held on with velcro.

 

[MattG]

Matt, in case you are not aware, there are two sizes of V1 cases. The old school case was thicker.

Crap. By any chance do you have one of those older ones? Any dimensions handy? The only dimensions that matter are the footprint, and the distance from the base to the slot in the sides. I have a feeling that slot dimension would have changed, since all their mounting brackets are top mounts thus they would have held the slot to TOP dimension constant instead.

Don't forget that there are quality vendors as well as the budget variety.

That reminds me, there's an Elise owner in Portland that owns an anodizing business (or former Elise owner, I think he moved on to a Gallardo). I'll have to ping him on this.

 

[cbracer]

You can call up Mike at Valentine and he should be able to help you. I think the case is only thicker but I don't know if it uses a different bracket? The new case thins down from the display area. The old one was the thickness of the display area.

As for anodizing, there are 2 prefinishes you can consider. One is used the brushed aluminum of the plate and anodize directly. This give a nice almost shiny finish. I prefer this, but there is an advantage of the second choice. You might also consider getting the item bead blasted with silicon carbide. We do this before anodizing on parts that go into the cockpit of race cars. It provides a very flat finish so that sunlight can't reflect off it.

--christopher

 

[Randy Chase]

I have both dimensions from when I was designing a similar case (I decided to work on other things instead). The entire case is slimmer now from the old V1. That changes the point where you are grabbing it. The footprint did not change. In my design, I had the two sides movable so they could clamp down on either one.

Mine is the older one and I will have it mounted to the harness bar at WCLM.

 

[MattG]

Looks clean !! If there would be no interference with the rear clam in detecting lazer, I'd be interested. Any idea of $$ ??

If you care a lot about rearward laser, this is not the best solution for you. If that were a priority to me, I'd mount the V1 up as high as possible. However, if I tried that, I had a concern about forward visibility being obstructed by the rearview mirror. In the end, the priorities were to make it rear mounted to be pretty much out of sight to casual observers, optimized placement for frontal coverage, and minimizing visual obstruction to the rear.

Keep in mind that any laser source must be stationary, and thus if it's behind you, you just drove past it and hopefully saw it already.

The cost will not be competitive with the DIY solutions out there, this is designed for someone who wants an OEM-type solution, one that doesn't require adding any holes to the car or applying adhesive backed velcro that may be difficult to remove later. It'll easily cost less than $100, but the final pricing can't be worked out until I review the proto and see if any more significant changes are needed.

 

[SweetDaddyD]

Slightly higher to help out rear laser (since it is one of the attributes of the V1 in the first place), and a box to hide that it's a V1 sitting there for those times it's parked with the top off, or worse the top on and captain sticky fingers is sporting a knife- and I'm in.