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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to change my oil tonight after work, so I am making my list and checking it twice. Let me preface this with the fact that I've never worked on a car before... ever. No oil changes, really nothing, just a lot to TLC and maybe topping fluids off.

I've read and printed out the sand musuem's tutorial and watched a few youtube videos. I think I can do this, it doesn't seem hard. My question is, should I give this a try; probably alone, maybe with my son to help who is a newb as well?

I was planning on heading to the LotusCorps Rockford drive tomorrow and have a second thought that I could $%*@ everything up and be stuck in the process because I didn't have the right tool or missed something.

My to buy list to do this tonight:

6 Pack of Beer
4 Hockey Pucks
(Borrow a floor jack and 2 jack stands from buddy at work)
Allen head wrench
A metric socket set
Torque wrench (good one)
Oil Filer Removal Tool
6 Quarts of 5w-40 (plan on using almost 5, so I have an extra to take tomorrow)
Mobil1 M1103 Oil Filter and plug gasket from Adv Auto <-- not sure if this is equivalent to the Toyota 90915-10004 filter. I can get a YzzF1 at the local Toyota shop if need be.
Note to self to check Toe-Links (I'll probably just visually inspect these and take a photo as well) I have 2 diagrams and will torque these to: 44 ft-lb (60 NM).

Wish me luck, I'm busting my cherry here.

Madison
 

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I wanted to change my oil tonight after work, so I am making my list and checking it twice. Let me preface this with the fact that I've never worked on a car before... ever. No oil changes, really nothing, just a lot to TLC and maybe topping fluids off.

I've read and printed out the sand musuem's tutorial and watched a few youtube videos. I think I can do this, it doesn't seem hard. My question is, should I give this a try; probably alone, maybe with my son to help who is a newb as well?

I was planning on heading to the LotusCorps Rockford drive tomorrow and have a second thought that I could $%*@ everything up and be stuck in the process because I didn't have the right tool or missed something.

My to buy list to do this tonight:

6 Pack of Beer
4 Hockey Pucks
(Borrow a floor jack and 2 jack stands from buddy at work)
Allen head wrench
A metric socket set
Torque wrench (good one)
Oil Filer Removal Tool
6 Quarts of 5w-40 (plan on using almost 5, so I have an extra to take tomorrow)
Mobil1 M1103 Oil Filter and plug gasket from Adv Auto <-- not sure if this is equivalent to the Toyota 90915-10004 filter. I can get a YzzF1 at the local Toyota shop if need be.
Note to self to check Toe-Links (I'll probably just visually inspect these and take a photo as well) I have 2 diagrams and will torque these to: 44 ft-lb (60 NM).

Wish me luck, I'm busting my cherry here.

Madison
yes you should try it. It is super easy and a good first project. I say go to autozone and buy yourself a set of rhino ramps to back up on. Its easier than using a jack and jack stands. Youll be find be brave, but be always be safety conscious.

You can get rid of a couple items on your list. Get an extra 6 pack, just in case (beer not oil)

Cross reference 2005 celica gts for the oil filter. Be sure to get a nice big oil collection pan, and a roll of shop towels. I recomend a set of safty goggles and and mechanics gloves as the first items to add to your car working collection
 

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Some of the instructions you will run across say that you need to remove the diffuser. If you are just doing an oil & filter this is NOT nessecary, just remove the engine tray. If you are going to look at the toe links then you will need to remove the diffuser.

+1 on using ramps!
 

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1. You may need to buy a slim profile jack. Some jacks are too tall to fit under the car, let alone accommodate a hockey puck as well. Your buddy may not have one that will fit.

If it has a circular rubber pad on it already, you probably dont need the hockey puck.

2. The job is easier with race ramps instead of jack stands because you can remove the undertray when the car is elevated.

Because of front clearance reasons, I don't reverse up on my ramps. Instead, I chock the front wheels and then lift the rear wheels high enough to slide the ramps under them.

3. If you have jack stands instead of race ramps, you have to remove the undertray first so that you can actually access the jacking point you need to put the jack stands under. that takes a lot of time and is why I recommend (2) instead.

I use race ramps instead of the jacking points under the diffuser unless I'm doing suspension-related work and need the wheels off.
 

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If you have never done this before you will probably find a few things "tricky".

1) You can drive in reverse up the Rhino ramps but it is a bit of a nail biter in that you swear you might go too far. It is good to have someone around to watch. Once you are used to it it is pretty easy.

2) Sometimes the old filter is on pretty tight. Even with a tool you might find that it is difficult to remove. Some tools just don't fit into the area available. I ended up buying a second oil filter removal tool because the first one was too big

3) No matter how careful you are, some oil seems to get onto the ground. If you have a really nice driveway put down lots of plastic or cardboard underneath.

4) There is a tendency to put on the new filter and tighten it up too tight. I don't know about the torque setting needed but if you hand tighten the filter you are better off than using your tool.

5) I find that the oil dip stick is really hard to read if the oil is clear and fresh. I think I put in 4 or 4.5 L of oil. If you put that much and can't read the level on the dip stick don't worry too much about it. Actually you can judge how much new oil you need by how much old oil comes out (unless you have a leak).

6) At least when you are doing this, all the neighbours will drop by and will think you are really clever.


Good luck. Just go slowly and you should succeed.
 

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I did my first oil change on the lotus. Its pretty easy and it gives you a boost in confidence. That lead to doing my own bleeding and changing pads. I would also recommend rhino ramps.
 

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I like to fill the new filter with oil and smear a bit on the gasket. I also put down a piece of cardboard to catch the inevitable drips. It is easiest to change the oil when the car is slightly warm maybe run it 2-4 min first. This will get it warm enough to flow but not hot enough to cause severe burns.
 

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I'd also get a nice set of metric box/open wrenches. Not really needed for an oil change, but good to have around if you find any problems. Also it is handy to have socket extensions, u-joints and adapters. I also like having deep sockets (I have some relatively cheap impact sockets) around. They come in handy more often then you'd expect.

I don't think you need to remove the diffuser to check the torque on toe-links. Just makes it a little harder to find the right angles for the torque wrench.
 

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Some of the instructions you will run across say that you need to remove the diffuser. If you are just doing an oil & filter this is NOT nessecary, just remove the engine tray. If you are going to look at the toe links then you will need to remove the diffuser.

+1 on using ramps!
this is incorrect.
 

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Ramps: safer, easier.

If you worry about going back too far, bolt a stop to the end of the ramp.

Fill the filter with oil before replacing.

Clean the filter mounting surface.

Hockey pucks are too hard, slippery. I use pc of wood in my jack's cradle.

Nordlock washers have, so far, kept my toe-link nuts tight. (McMaster-Carr)
 

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I do mine without lifting the car. There's plenty of room... and I'm not a tiny guy. Diffuser has to come off, it's not that much work to remove, just abotu 14000 bolts though rotfl

Torque "setting" on almost all oil filters is snug and then 1/4 to 1/2 a turn more (by hand).

Pre filling the oil filter is not recommended by most engine manufactures. There is little reason to as it will fill up in a couple seconds AND if you get a bit of junk in it while pouring, it will go right to the bearings of the engine. I saw an expesive diesel motor ruined because the owner poured in along with the oil the piece of foil that was over the oil jug opening.

I did my first oil change when I was 5 or 6 years old. I wouldn't be able to begin to understand how to not be mechanically inclined! I have tried to teach a few people and I knew it was gonna be a headache when they didn't know what a flat head screwdriver was or how to use a wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone for the advice, I'd be lost without this forum. You guys rock... :bow::bow::bow::bow:

Ok I got my 6 quarts of Castrol Edge 5W-40 (Adv Auto had squat for 5w-40 selection)

6 Pack of 1554 Belgian Country Ale

Ramps down, car backed up, in first gear with hand brake up and chock blocks on the front wheels.

I'm gonna remove the diffuser just to look under it and check stuff out.

Here goes... :panic:
 

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I don't know what GLB is smoking, but there is no need to remove the diffuser whatsoever, unless you just want a look above that area.

Oil change is easy, but tedious due to all the panel fasteners. I found that the nylon strap type filter wrench works well in tight spots and is universal with fit.

Do a few oil changes, then take a deep breath and do your own brakes too!
 

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If you have never done this, then why waste a bunch of $ on tools that you will not likely be using, as well as garage space?
Just take it to the shop.
 

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I am finding it a rather satisfying platform to work on. Maybe spring on some Motul and the K&N2009 filter with the difference your pocketing doing your own labor. The before after with fresh slick stuff is always satisfying when you have done it yurself!

I would also check your intake air filter and spray that MAF off ! Your gonna feel like a king with a beer in your hands and oil to your armpits !

How your sparkplugs looking ? It never ends. Nitrite gloves are good when messing with messybits too.

+1 Ramps
+1 pre-fill oil filter
+1 no need to remove diffuser if only doing oil / filter change in future
+1mechanics gloves !

Start looking for the freemods you can do to these rides...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm done, and way tired. It took forever to get the diffuser and the bottom panel back on. I torqued everything to spec and turned the car on after 4 quarts and let it run a few minutes. No leaks whatsoever. I added 3/4's of a 5th quart and rechecked the levels and again for any drips from the plug and filter. Everything looked good.

I checked my toe links, they were tight. I also took some photos after I pulled everything off. I have a few questions which will have to wait till tomorrow.
 

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:clap:

It's no that difficult. The first oil change I ever did was on my old Elise. That led to the confidence to replace the exhaust myself. These cars are easy to work on other than some of the spaces being tight to work in and there are instructions out there for everything.

Congrats on your first oil change.
 

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I don't know what GLB is smoking, but there is no need to remove the diffuser whatsoever, unless you just want a look above that area.

Oil change is easy, but tedious due to all the panel fasteners. I found that the nylon strap type filter wrench works well in tight spots and is universal with fit.

Do a few oil changes, then take a deep breath and do your own brakes too!
sorry, was unclear.

Meant that the diffuser (on my car anyway) needn't be removed to check toe links. (I.e. We agree.)

Oh, and Pall Malls.
 

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How do you get to the oil drain an filer without pulling the diffuser?

I don't know what GLB is smoking, but there is no need to remove the diffuser whatsoever, unless you just want a look above that area.

Oil change is easy, but tedious due to all the panel fasteners. I found that the nylon strap type filter wrench works well in tight spots and is universal with fit.

Do a few oil changes, then take a deep breath and do your own brakes too!
 
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