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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Would like to start a nice central discussion thread for people installing these. The instructions included with the kit are pretty straight forward, but this can provide an area for users to discuss tips, tricks, etc.

*** Complete Installation was done by me on an 06 Exige with clam on ****

First off a parts check list

□ Assembled Supercharger
_ - MP62 Supercharger
_ - Drive Snout
_ - Inlet Mount (throttle body side)
_ - Outlet Mount (top side of supercharger)
_ - Outlet Mount to Intercooler Piping Adaptor (L shaped tube attached to outlet)
_ - Bypass Valve (the little "can" mounted on side)
□ Intake Manifold
□ Intercooler
□ Intake Pipe (polished aluminum with MAF sensor mount)
□ Air Filter
□ Pulley
_ - Stage I.....3.2" Part Number: ????
_ - Stage II... 3.0" Part Number: 58-90-06-031
_ - Stage III.. ????
□ Charcoal Canister Relocation Bracket (big black cage)
□ Alternator / Drive Snout Support Bracket (should also have 2 circle metal spacers + hardware)
□ Valve Cover PCV Flanges (2 milled aluminum pieces)
□ PCV Rubber Hose (big thick rubber hose)
□ VVT Milled Aluminum Adaptor
□ Dayco Serpentine Belt
□ Intake Manifold Gasket
□ Throttle Body Gasket
□ Vacuum Adaptors/Fittings/Hoses for Purge Valve Solenoid
□ RC Engineering Injectors
_ - Stage I. 440cc
_ - Stage II 550cc
_ - Stage III ????
□ Injector Wire Harnesses Pigtails (need 4)
□ Silicon Couplings With Hose Clamps For Piping
□ Replacement Oil Dipstick
□ Aluminum Coolant Bungs (2x)
□ Adjustable Supercharger Support Brackets (2x)
□ Various Baggies Of Nuts/Bolts (Ace Hardware usually has a good Metric selection)
□ ECU Shipment Info
□ Printed Instruction Manual (online color copy here)
□ Fuel Pump (Stage 2 & 3 Only)


*** Throttle body in kit picture is not included ***
 

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Discussion Starter #2
First thing is taking the pressure out of the fuel system. This isn't mentioned in the instructions and by the time I thought of it I already had the intake and throttle body disconnected. So I'm just gonna do it the messy way of popping off the fuel rail with towels underneath (I would recommend removing the intake manifold first if your gonna do it this way).

To get rid of the fuel pressure, remove the 20A fuse from the fuse holder mounted on the firewall. Its the one closest to the driver side, and on the '05's may be rotated differently then the one pictured below. Start the engine and let it run until it dies...dont rev it, just let it idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
In Step 8 on the instructions it shows using the aluminum bungs to cap the cooling hoses under the intake manifold.

Is this required or optional? It looks like it will clear everything, and I'd rather not mess with the cooling system if not required. I dont plan on eliminating the coolant loop through the throttle body, so I dont see where this kit would effect anything with the cooling system.

UPDATE: This step is not required. The hose actually just makes a loop that is ziptied to oil lines below. You can cut the zip tie and reposition this loop if you dont wish to mess with the coolant system.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To remove the long stud on the driver side that held the intake manifold in place, use two nuts on the end to unthread it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Make it easy on yourself and label EVERYTHING. Put tape on all your connections and make a note on the tape what each one is (injectors, hoses, harnesses, etc). Place all nuts & bolts in baggies and label those baggies. That way you'll know where everything goes and whats SUPPOSED to be left over afterwards :D

You can even make a checklist of everything you disconnect as you do it, so you'll be able to back over the checklist when installing stuff.
 

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In Step 8 on the instructions it shows using the aluminum bungs to cap the cooling hoses under the intake manifold.

Is this required or optional? It looks like it will clear everything, and I'd rather not mess with the cooling system if not required. I dont plan on eliminating the coolant loop through the throttle body, so I dont see where this kit would effect anything with the cooling system.
I believe its required..Not a big deal, ditch the throttle coolant too..
 

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Clam take 4 hours to get off and 2 to put back on for a first timer? plus coordination with another person? I don't think I would have saved 6 hours on my install. For what it's worth.
 

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In Step 8 on the instructions it shows using the aluminum bungs to cap the cooling hoses under the intake manifold.

Is this required or optional? It looks like it will clear everything, and I'd rather not mess with the cooling system if not required. I dont plan on eliminating the coolant loop through the throttle body, so I dont see where this kit would effect anything with the cooling system.
Some kits and folks who modify feel as though there is some power to be made by keeping the throttle body cooler. One of the reasons for keeping it warm was idle warm-up to achieve proper engine operating conditions (in cold climates), so the car would drive smoothly until warm. Some say helps to meet cleaner burning for EPA standards. ? I know it didn't hurt to block off or loop the hoses for Cal Smog in one of my cars.
 

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Clam take 4 hours to get off and 2 to put back on for a first timer? plus coordination with another person? I don't think I would have saved 6 hours on my install. For what it's worth.
Took me 1.5 hours first time I removed the clam on my exige. Not sure on putting it back on since it was for installing the tilt kit. I can't even imagine doing the install with the kit on. Love my tilting clam for just that reason. :)
 

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yeah, i put the clam hinge kit on just in case i did the supercharger thing.
stiffer mounts, too.
it may not save a lot tof time for the first installation but it adds up to convenience time after time.
 

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I believe its required..Not a big deal, ditch the throttle coolant too..
Required? We didnt plug mine, remember...I think we made it shorter though.
 

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It's not required. I did do it though.

If you do decide to do them, pull the top hose first and block off, then the bottom. If you have both disconnected at the same time the fluid comes out REALLY fast. :D

As for the TB, if you live in a warmer climate I would bypass it. If you are way up north you might want to keep it if the car will be left outside in sub freezing temps. The coolant flows through the TB so that the butterfly won't get frozen. Probably not a big deal unless you park it out in the elements.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have a question about the VVT adaptor. I dont understand, exactly what am I aligning here? Is it because I rotated the assembly about 90* from how it came out? Or does that matter? So like what am I trying to accomplish by aligning this?
 

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yeah, the instructions on that Vvti are vague at best.
The part of the solenoid in the block can rotate independently of the part with the electrical connector. You need to make sure the part in the block lines up the way it did before you put the adapter on. If you don't line it up the same, you won't have the second cam (ask me how I know) Make your marks, bend the little tabs, rotate the solenoid body, bent the tabs back and install. Don't break it, that's a $250 part.
 
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