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From the VF guys:
Belt Routing.jpg

on that tensioner, that's not the bolt you need to work with.
There's a 17mm "bolt head" attached to the tensioner assembly(see pic) apply CW force and the belt will loosen. Use my ratchet strap trick in a previous post to get the belt on.

 

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Discussion Starter #42
oh my god, thank you for posting that belt layout, thats a pretty important piece of imformation to omit from the instructions :crazyeyes Ya that layout makes way more sense as it puts alot more contact area on the constant drag components and leaves the AC short changed (which cuts off at high load anyways).

Also glad I learned what that "shock" actually went to :D I didnt think it actually went to anything and always reluctantly put it back on after messing with it when messing with the stock header (I just went ahead and chopped the tube off the stock header as not to worry about it anymore).
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Alright got the belt off, and now I'm working on cutting off that little ear on the alternator mount. So far I have done everything on my own. I might need a third hand to get the belt back on though, cause that takes a little more precision. This is on an Exige with the clam on.

Going slow, but going alright so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Man yours look much better. I have all mine on the inside and its makes getting to the bottom coupling a little tedious. I did think about going through that front opening under the IC like that. I might redo mine, just have to stretch those babies.

I have had to notch the manifold and the VVT adaptor to clear each other. Just a hair on both.

And I did shave and notch the intake manifold so that a DBW throttle body can just mount right up and not need either adaptor. Did you end up actually using that little vacuum nipple on the side, or can I just plug that?
 

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Man yours look much better. I have all mine on the inside and its makes getting to the bottom coupling a little tedious. I did think about going through that front opening under the IC like that. I might redo mine, just have to stretch those babies.

I have had to notch the manifold and the VVT adaptor to clear each other. Just a hair on both.

And I did shave and notch the intake manifold so that a DBW throttle body can just mount right up and not need either adaptor. Did you end up actually using that little vacuum nipple on the side, or can I just plug that?

I took the nipple out, found a bolt with the same thread type and put it in a few turns. I then got out the dremel and cut the head off the bolt, turned the dremel 90 degrees and cut a slot in what was left to make it a flat head. Then I filled the hole with some liquid gasket and threaded the set screw in. Waited a few hours then cleaned the inside of the housing where it pushed the gasket out and finished installing.

I've been having hell with some type of vacuum leak, this was one of my elimination steps. I also didn't use any of the adapter plates for the tb.

Oh, also make sure you put some foam under the fuel hose anywhere it is touching the ic or the frame. Sure don't want that baby to wear through. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Finally got the supercharger mounted....I spent about 2 hours trying to figure out a way to tighten that middle manifold bolt :crazyeyes

Its actually starting to look halfway descent now :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Oh and I had to pop off the two fuse holders on the firewall cause the bypass valve on the supercharger was pushing on them. The 06's are mounted in a different orientation then the 05's though.
 

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yeah, I had to notch the intake manifold, too. But I didn't touch the vvti. I used the TB adaptor. For the vacuum port, I used a 1" piece of hose and plugged the end. I found that there's no place to put the fuses when you're done. I made a little bracket so both the fuse boxes mount closer to the ECU.
Seems as if you're finding the same issues I had. I typed them up and sent them to VF.
Here's it is for the world to see:
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Hello guys,
I wanted to take the time to give you some feedback on the Lotus supercharger kit. Before I get into nitpicking, I wanted to say that I am pleased with the end result, quality, engineering, and customer service of the kit and I would recommend it to anyone who’d ask.
Here’s a list of issues I had with the kit, most are nitpicks.
1. The instructions for installing the VVTI solenoid adapter bracket were vague and poorly worded. Only after installing everything, issues with getting on the second cam, and researching it did I understand what was meant in the instructions.
2. The VVTI solenoid adapter bolt included was too short to even engage the threads on the head. I had to go to Lowes and buy one that was 5mm longer.
3. The intake manifold interfered with the VVTI solenoid adapter when installed. I had to grind 1-2 mm off the intake manifold, I checked clearance with a feeler gauge. Good thing there’s a lot of metal in that area.
4. The bolt for the alternator was too long. The instructions said there were two different length bolts, but in my kit they were both the same. I had to cut more threads on the shaft to make it work. After everything was installed I had a few extra bolts that would have worked just fine, though.
5. My supercharger snout doesn’t fit snug against the alternator/nose bracket. The SC is moved as far to the passenger side as is allowed by the intake manifold, but there’s still a .5mm gap. I don’t think this is causing any issues.
6. The instructions didn’t include information on where to mount the dipstick tube. I attached it to the supercharger and it seems good.
7. I have an 06 exige, and there’s two small fuse boxes mounted to the firewall. They can’t go back and there’s no provision to mount them. I made a bracket and zip tied them to it.
8. The driver side supercharger brace on the driver’s side had to tightened all the way. No real big issue, but the brace took a lot of effort to shorten.
9. The intake tube interferes with the wheel well liner. I dented mine in as I didn’t want to run without it.
10. With the DBW throttle plate adaptor the intake tube is pushed out 10mm. This puts the brackets on the intake tube in the wrong place. There were also no instructions on how to mount the intake tube. I ended up using a big hose clamp.
11. The instructions never stated to run the vacuum line to the supercharger bypass valve. Minor oversight.
12. One of the stock PVC hoses that goes from the head to the throttle body was too short to reuse. I had to buy some hose off the shelf.
13. My car has stalled at idle a few times, I have ensured that the MAF sensor is horizontal.

That’s all I have. Like I said earlier, I am very pleased with the kit. I thank you for engineering it and making it available.
Thanks for your time
Dwight.
....................
 

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stock headers, decat, 2bular 8x24.
The stall issue got better after a week or so, then my car got hit and has been in the shop for 6 weeks now.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
So are we supposed to do something with the bypass? I saw there was no line connected to it, but I thought all the other kits were the same way....like its pretty much an optional thing.

Was also suprised that bypass valve is plastic...gotta take care when moving that supercharger around (thats a manufacturer thing, not VF's fault in any way).
 

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Discussion Starter #55
The vacuum port on my bypass valve is actually sealed with a brass plug or something. So I think it doesn't matter.

Just have a couple things left. Still have to install the belt and also waiting for the ECU to come in so I can finish up the piping as well.
 

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The vacuum port on my bypass valve is actually sealed with a brass plug or something. So I think it doesn't matter.

Just have a couple things left. Still have to install the belt and also waiting for the ECU to come in so I can finish up the piping as well.
You will want to attach the bypass valve to the port on the side of the throttle body casting.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Well got it to start up without exploding. Need to work on the belt still

I noticed aluminum bits around the snout of the supercharger after first start, so I think there may be a slight tolerance issue there. I very quickly touched the aluminum support bracket and it did feel hot. So I'll inspect it when I change out the belt and I might just let it work its way down, cause the supercharger CANT move any closer to the passanger side. I had to grind down the bearings on the supercharger just to get it to fit into the manifold width.

So, ya its alive, but I have not actually tried to drive it yet. It is much louder though at idle, which is probably because of the new intake.
 

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Matt's rubbed too on his elise. I never had any problems on mine though. I think his was rubbing on the back side of the pulley, just barely though.

What "bearings" did you grind down?
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
The insert ones on the manifold bracket that it hinges on the supercharger from (the 2 big bolts). They weren't centered so to speak, so I had to grind one side down in order to get the supercharger assembly to fit within the bearings. So I dont know if the general positioning of them caused the supercharger to be offset or not.

I just took off the belt and the pulley no longer moves freely like it did before, it is obviously interferings with the bracket. So I'm gonna mess with it....getting that nut off the end should be interesting.

EDIT: Simple fix. The backside of the pulley was very obviously rubbing. So I just turned the pulley around so that the "nose" on the pulley is now acting as a hard stop on the back. It lines up well with the rest of the pulleys and I can freely rotate the supercharger. So now the writing on the supercharger that says "3.0 xxxpartnumberxx" is now facing the supercharger. I dont think thats how its "supposed" to be, but there wasnt any real clear orientation given in the instructions.
 
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