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VS Install

I did the installation almost single handed. First off you really need to remove the clam, here you will need someone to hold the other side as you withdraw the clam. I would pay to watch someone do it with the clam on especially if it was the first time.
I had a few minor issues which have been mostly resolved. The most important one was the dipstick tube was way to long which resulted in not getting any reading even though the sump was full. It is important to have the oil level at the correct high mark if you track the car. A replacement was immediately sent but this to was a few centimetres to long also. In the end I shortened the original one and also increased one of the bends by 10* so that the tube did not rub against the fire wall and was closer to the engine.
I also tried to block of any source of cooling leakage to the IC using foam.
I also modified the OEM injector cover to fit this installation as I wanted to keep rain water off them as it rains a lot where I am.
The only outstanding issue is a really annoying stall in very slow moving traffic but a fix is imminent. Once you are on the move it's a delight.
I am overall very pleased with this kit and Jermaine is extremely helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Good call on the oil dipstick. I just installed the new one yesterday, but have yet to actually put in the supercharger yet so its still accessable. So I can still switch the old back in and see how they compare.

I am kinda suprised there is zero mention of how to do the belt install in the instructions. Guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Also I am doing it with the clam on and it has yet to be a real problem. However I am 6'3" so I have a pretty long reach. Plus I'm on an Exige which I think has a slightly larger engine bay opening. The charcoal canister was kind of pain, but I finally got it in there. I have both rear wheels off and the wheel liners removed. It was a good time to really scrub the wheel liners and use some adhesive on those rubber edge seals that keep trying to peel off the liners.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Also what did you do about the solenoid and vacuum lines that were for the little flapper on the stock intake housing? Did you just plug the solenoid harness back in and remove all the vacuum lines?
 

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I plugged the vacuum line and deleted the canister.
on the belt routing - I agree. I actually broke my tensioner while installing. I found the best method to install the belt was to put a breaker bar on the tensioner and use ratcheting straps around the rollbar supports to pull the breaker bar. That allows you to use both hands to route the belt and get it on the pulleys.
 

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The only outstanding issue is a really annoying stall in very slow moving traffic but a fix is imminent
What exhaust,cat,header are you running?


Oh, and great job, looks very OEMish. Love the cover, will have to trim mine up.
 

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I plugged the vacuum line and deleted the canister.
on the belt routing - I agree. I actually broke my tensioner while installing. I found the best method to install the belt was to put a breaker bar on the tensioner and use ratcheting straps around the rollbar supports to pull the breaker bar. That allows you to use both hands to route the belt and get it on the pulleys.
Good idea. With my tilting clam I just put my jack handle under the tensioner and sit on it. With my fat ass I can normally keep it held 100% for a short time while I work on the belt.

I'll try your way next. :)

I can't use the tensioner itself as my wonderful lotus mechanics stripped it out last time they R&R'd my belt. Thank you Star Motor Cars... :wallbang:
 

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Anthony
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Why can't the original dipstick be used?

The BWR kit that I installed had 172 pictures for the install. Made things a breeze.

It would save VF some time with calls and questions if they took more pictures just to clarify some questions. Pictures of all the parts including bolts, nuts, etc. would be a plus. It seems as though the kit is fine except for the directions. Are there plans to upgrade the directions? I may be involved in a future install, would like more clarification. Directions shouldn't be a deciding factor to buy one kit over another. Not nitpicking, just trying to help. :up:
 

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Yeah, and the tensioner is $150 with the super toyota discount. definitely a junk yard piece to buy.
The VF instructions I had were poor to fair. It wouldn't be a deciding factor for me. But, had I known, I would have offered my tech writing services for an early kit and a discount. oh well.
 

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We didn't even use the instructions on the early kit we got. :) I had a Jay, didn't need no stinking instructions.

Oh, Jay look. No allens!
 

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Dip Stick

The projection of the dip stick using the OEM dip stick tube is 173 mm.
I had to shorten the tube that was originally supplied by 39 mm to get the same projection. Jermaine now supplies a shorter tube which I believe to be the same. I also increased the bend in the tube by roughly 10 degrees so that it ended up against nearer the engine and away from the firewall.
 

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With regards the engine stall issue I started out with the standard header and exhaust silencer. I have since fitted a 2ublar 8x24 silencer and hope to fit sometime in the near future the Forcefed 4:1. exhaust header. I have had both on the shelf for quite awhile. The engine stall occurs when the air fuel ratio drops down to around 9.5:1.0 when you clutch in to stop. It does not by any means do it everytime but you learn to sense when it going to happen and a blip on the throttle is sufficient. Charlie Wallace says that the air flow past the Air Mass sensor actually reverses direction for a moment which confuses the ECU. As I said Jermaine says an ECU fix is imminent.
 

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We didn't even use the instructions on the early kit we got. :) I had a Jay, didn't need no stinking instructions.

Oh, Jay look. No allens!
Hmmm.... that hardware looks really familiar;)
 

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Hmmm.... that hardware looks really familiar;)
Thanks for the studs and nuts, made it tons easier to get that gasket and manifold on.

viva said:
The projection of the dip stick using the OEM dip stick tube is 173 mm.
I had to shorten the tube that was originally supplied by 39 mm to get the same projection. Jermaine now supplies a shorter tube which I believe to be the same. I also increased the bend in the tube by roughly 10 degrees so that it ended up against nearer the engine and away from the firewall.
Now you got me concerned, I didn't even think to measure the dipstick tube length...
 

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I checked my dipstick tube and found it to be similar.
I wish I had those studs and nuts. I did use some of the original bolts rather than the hex head stuff because it was easier.
 

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Anthony
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Thanks for the studs and nuts, made it tons easier to get that gasket and manifold on.
Can you post the size of the studs and nuts. Length and thread? It could help future installers. TIA
 

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They're the same ones we supply for the TVS and Katana kits. I don't recall the specs of the studs off the top of my head (they're obviously M8 1.25 x ?mm length), but can look them up when I'm back in the shop. I could probably put together some packages of nuts and studs for anyone interested. Not terribly expensive but more than what you find at the hardware store.They're "fancy nuts":D... Just drop me a PM/email if needed...

Happy wrenching,

Phil

Edit: Per your following post- I've got shorter studs as well... Good to know...
 

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I think the studs are a bit long. Maybe 1/4 of an inch shorter would be a better fit.

Made putting that gasket for the intake manifold a lot easier than with the allen head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Did you have to move alot of the wirelooms out of the way for the intercooler. There is a whole stack of wires down there (and some hoses) and its keeping the intercooler from sitting nicely in there.
 

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Yes, you have to reroute alot of those main harness wires. I'll get a pic tomorrow before I put all my piping back in of how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I looked at the belt and this is the way I took it to work. I have two questions. First did I identify the idler tensioner correctly? And second what is the correct belt layout with the supercharger? I drew what I thought might be correct, but is that enough surface contact area in that layout?

And then the 3rd picture, does that bolt need a special socket, cause it looks like a splined head.
 

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