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Anyone have any ideas for a simple way to hold the hose in place without a lot of effort? I'm thinking some insurance like a larger hose sleeve overlapping the hose and the crimp with a hose clamp at each end. At the very least something that keeps the line from popping off and having oil escaping so rapidly.
 

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This looks like a excellent upgrade for the winter. Anyone else have any feedback or experience with the Lamina oil cooler?
Me.

Fitted the Lotus Laminova Kit.
It simply does not works for cooling oil, it warms water only.

:mad:

This not avoid the risk to decrimp tubes of oil, you must always crip two tubes of oil to sandwich plate and to the supposed "Laminova oil cooler"
 

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Me.

Fitted the Lotus Laminova Kit.
It simply does not works for cooling oil, it warms water only.

:mad:

This not avoid the risk to decrimp tubes of oil, you must always crip two tubes of oil to sandwich plate and to the supposed "Laminova oil cooler"
Did your kit include the upgraded radiator? As you probably know, the Laminova is a heat exchanger, so it will tend to equalize the oil and water temperatures (the warmer fluid gets cooler, the cooler fluid gets warmer). Do you have an oil temperature gauge? What temps are you seeing? If the water temperatures are running hotter than normal, it means your radiator isn't adequate.

I'm very interested in your experience, because I'm considering the same "upgrade".

Thanks,
 

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I've installed same day the triple bypass Lotus full alu rad.

No oil temp gauge.

The water gauge shows (Euro values - 87° in cruising, some less than before, and a top of 116° during hot summer track day, worste than before.
In city traffic the water temp raises faster to 100°.

All the twin rad equipped cars that i know here shows better water temps...

I'm considering to install twin rad kit.
 

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I am moving to the Laminova cooler this winter. I am going to purchase the larger 330 cooler from BAT industries along with a pro alloy triple pass rad or a larger custom rad since I do not have air conditioning. I ran the car this past weekend with air temps around 45 degrees F and had a hard time getting and keeping the oil at optimal running temperatures. Furthermore, I just don't like having 27 feet of oil lines with 6 connections, not counting the Accusump. It will also be nice getting all the oil replaced during an oil change. If I was running endurance events I would keep the front cooler configuration, but short of that I don't see any reason not to change over. Anyone else have a good argument for keeping the stock setup.
 

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I'm going to pick my car up this week from the mechanic after my oil line failure a couple weeks ago. My mechanic (south bay autohaus) told me that they have seen this failure a few times. One of his customers, who regularly tracked his car, had this happen to him twice in a year. Needless to say, that is not acceptable. I was lucky I didn't hit the guardrail when my back end went out as I got off the freeway. I'm also very concerned about the possibility of this happening when I'm on track. I asked him about any possible way of making the lines super tight and he said with the stock lines there isn't a way. We discussed installing a setrab oil cooler with fans over the winter. That is the best way to get rid of all the oil lines and the offending connections. It is next on my list of upgrades to make as another failure like this could be catastrophic.

For any of you guys who see the engine oil light come on while driving, try to pull over ASAP and shut the engine off. The oil comes out only while the engine is under pressure. The quicker you get it shut down, the better the chance you have of saving the engine and preventing tons of oil underneath the car causing you to spin out. Luckily I was running new Motul V300 so that probably helped save my engine.....
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I'm going to pick my car up this week from the mechanic after my oil line failure a couple weeks ago. My mechanic (south bay autohaus) told me that they have seen this failure a few times. One of his customers, who regularly tracked his car, had this happen to him twice in a year. Needless to say, that is not acceptable. I was lucky I didn't hit the guardrail when my back end went out as I got off the freeway. I'm also very concerned about the possibility of this happening when I'm on track. I asked him about any possible way of making the lines super tight and he said with the stock lines there isn't a way. We discussed installing a setrab oil cooler with fans over the winter. That is the best way to get rid of all the oil lines and the offending connections. It is next on my list of upgrades to make as another failure like this could be catastrophic.

For any of you guys who see the engine oil light come on while driving, try to pull over ASAP and shut the engine off. The oil comes out only while the engine is under pressure. The quicker you get it shut down, the better the chance you have of saving the engine and preventing tons of oil underneath the car causing you to spin out. Luckily I was running new Motul V300 so that probably helped save my engine.....
I know I'm sounding like a broken record on this...but REPORT THIS TO NHTSA!! Lotus needs to recognize this as a serious SAFETY issue. There have been a couple reports of 'near misses' on this already. It only takes a couple minutes.

Home | Safercar -- National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
 

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Mine blew with no warning at night, oil all over windshield in the middle of 50mph traffic and concrete wall on my left. I cut away fitting and used two screw clamps to re-attach- it's not slipping off like that swell factory crimp and it didn't cost me a thing. You don't need to remove anything but the wheel on the effected side and the wheel arch liner to get at it. If it happens do not run your car.
Can you post a picture of what you did? That would be much appreciated!
 

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So the Laminova solution does not solve the problem, even with an upgaded radiator??
 

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So have any aftermarket vendors created a way to fix this? Going to buy an Exige soon and this issue scares me especially since it would be out of warranty.
 

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Important Added Thread

I did this write up about two months ago. I am surprised no one has mentioned it. This should assist anyone who wishes to change the line.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f293/oil-cooler-line-repair-gauge-instalation-91341/

If this happens to you on a track event or during a fast curve on a highway you run a high chance of a serious incident. The oil will get all over one of your rear tires. Not to mention the damage your engine can sustain.

I was fortunate this happened to me during the day, in a staight line, and i smell the burning oil before it all emptied out onto the street. I have since corrected the problem and added some gauges for additional warnings.

I went ahead and reported the incident to NHTSA.
 

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No, you must always crip the oil tubes...
The Laminova setup eliminates the dual oil coolers the factory tubing along with the connectors and the sandwich plate. I am going with a mocal sandwich plate w/o thermostat and AN type connectors. Not sure why you think this will not eliminate the oil line failure risk?
 

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oil line issues

My right rear oil line came out of the crimp on Oct 19. Unfortunately my warranty ran out on July 21. No luck. I had lunch, on my way back and without warning the oil light came on, quickly followed by the engine light. I pulled over as soon as I could, but won't know about any damage until I fix the line (don't think I will use OEM parts). Oil all over the inside of the engine compartment and right rear tire. I will fill out a form, but any ideas who to talk to in Canada?

Here's what the pulled out oil line looks like. I did not move anything, this is how it looked when I removed the undertray (also a very messy job at that point). No signs of crimping. Only 34000km (about 20000 miles) on the 2007 elise.

Cheers,
 

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does anyone *really* know if the crimps failed completely, all at once? Is it more likely that the hoses are backing out of the crimped connections over time and eventually they disconnect?

I think I'm going to take a silver sharpie to the hoses at the crimps so if it is the case they back out over time and eventually fail, I'll at least have a shot at knowing ahead of time.
 

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does anyone *really* know if the crimps failed completely, all at once? Is it more likely that the hoses are backing out of the crimped connections over time and eventually they disconnect?

I think I'm going to take a silver sharpie to the hoses at the crimps so if it is the case they back out over time and eventually fail, I'll at least have a shot at knowing ahead of time.
I can tell you with absolute certainty that mine had not backed out when I replaced my sandwich plate, about a year ago.
 

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FWIW, NHTSA reports will get results. Usually they'll give the mfg a chance to issue a TSB or voluntary recall.

IN order to insure that NHTSA responds quickly, make sure you emphasize that this is a safety issue and that a blown oil line can lead to a serious or fatal car wreck.
 

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Are the failures occurring at both ends of the hose going from the cooler back to the engine compartment?

From the last picture, it looks like the hose is just pulling out of the fitting. Is that correct?

Bottom line, are the possible failures at each end of the same hose?

If the issue is that localized, I wonder if it might be possible to use some device to help take some of the load off the connections.

Some things that come to mind are fitting a small hose clamp down on the hose and then running safety wire or zip ties back to some point near the metal fitting to ease the load.

OR possibly wrapping the whole thing in some of that stretching repair tape with the super adhesives in it. Once that stuff sets up, it is remarkably strong. Again, I'm just looking at something to possibly ease the load on the weak spot a bit.

I'm fitting a gPAN in the next few weeks. I'll do some poking around and see what comes to mind.

Can't hurt (hopefully).
 
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