[alessio]

I'm not sleeping anymore due to this problem on my lotus elise s2 k-series (2001):
every lights and electrical stuff work fine but the following don't:
- sidelamps (parking lamps) and its dashboard switch led
- rear fog lamps and its dashboard switch led
- cigarette lighter socket
- some instrument pack lights (only the blue LEDs which light the tachometer and the speedometer, all the tell tale lamps are OK).

Some additional hints:
- i'm not an electrician :shrug:
- there's no hazard lamps switch
- there's no A/C circuit
- as far as i can see (attached figure), there could me some "customization" made on the wirings of the electrical circuit by the previous owner
- maybe the problemstarted after i removed the central console and i may have tickled (short-circuit?) the cigarette lighter wires
- all the fuses in the main (front) fuse box are OK, especially F16
- there is no voltage on the red-black wire of the cigarette lighter socket: as you can see from the picture, this wire comes from the rear of the car and not from the front... is this normal or is it due to some customization? Does this mean i should also check the rear fuse box or some wire in the engine bay too?

I found this thread (http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129/weird-electrical-issue-anyone-have-any-ideas-61434/index3.html) which points to the Switch Pack Module, but since removing it really scares me I'd like to do some additional checks with your help. :bow:

 

[Roger]

This model of Elise was never sold in the US, and this is a US forum.
I'd suggest you try SELOC in the UK for better-informed advice.

 

[SirLotus]

I don't know if your S2 model has similar wiring to our Federal models. If it does, then the "Power Socket" has nothing to do with the "Switch Pack Module" and is on it's own fuse F1. I agree with you, it probably has something to do with the custom wiring at the center console. I would look at the "Power Socket" and any rear light wiring that is routed through the console. As was previously posted you are better off on SELOC.
Cheers,
Michael

 

[alessio]

Thank you, i posted on SELOC too, hopefully a merge from the helps i'll get from here and there will bring a solution.
Anyway you are right, i checked my S2 handbook and the power socket is connected to F1.
So, let's suppose we have the same wiring so that my power socket has nothing to do with the SPM, what is in common between F1 and F16?
I mean, what could be the common cause which makes both the power socket and the sidelamps not working?

 

[SirLotus]

There has to be a "short", between the "socket" and rear light wiring under the console. You have to carefully inspect along the length of those wires. If fuse F16 is OK but those associated lights are out then there could be a problem in the "Switch Pack Module". I presume fuse F1 is blown?
Michael

Thank you, i posted on SELOC too, hopefully a merge from the helps i'll get from here and there will bring a solution.
Anyway you are right, i checked my S2 handbook and the power socket is connected to F1.
So, let's suppose we have the same wiring so that my power socket has nothing to do with the SPM, what is in common between F1 and F16?
I mean, what could be the common cause which makes both the power socket and the sidelamps not working?

 

[alessio]

F1 is OK too.
If there would be a short, i suppose the fuse would be blown... am i right?
I'm inspecting all the wires and they seem okay...
I used a voltage tester directly on the cigarette lighter socket and there's no voltage there, are there any other points where i can use a voltage tester on to check where the interruption could be?

 

[alessio]

i just discovered that rear lamps do not work too but stop lamps work...

 

[SirLotus]

Again, I am presuming the wiring is similar to our US cars.
The side lamps and the fog lights are controlled by the "switch pack", the stop lights are not. Check voltage on both sides of fuse F16, my guess is its OK. Then check voltage at both the side and fog light switches, my guess no voltage. Conclusion: in between is the Switch Pack,that's the problem.
If socket has no voltage and the fuse is OK then there must be an open somewhere. Check both sides of the F1 fuse with a voltmeter.
Finding electrical problems is a case of pulling wires to isolate the problem.

 

[alessio]

The side lamps and the fog lights are controlled by the "switch pack", the stop lights are not.

Ok, so i understand that the switch pack is a good candidate, even if the power socket malfunction could mislead to something else.
Anyway, later i'll go to unmount the instrument pack and all the surrounding stuff to see this SPM and shake and blow on it, at least... :shrug:

Check voltage on both sides of fuse F16, my guess is its OK. Then check voltage at both the side and fog light switches, my guess no voltage.

Well, i need a little help here: Where should i put the red and black pin of the voltage meter?
The black pin of the voltmeter on any ground on the car and the red one on each of the sides of the fuse?
(think of me like a monkey with a screwdriver on his hands)

If socket has no voltage and the fuse is OK then there must be an open somewhere. Check both sides of the F1 fuse with a voltmeter.

see above...

 

[alessio]

Again, I am presuming the wiring is similar to our US cars.

The wiring of my car is this one:
http://www.lotusforum.be/TO-DOWNLOAD/Elise MKII/Elise s2 Electrics - MO.pdf
see page 13 for the fuse box and page 29 for the side and fog lamps circuit (i'd wish i could understand those diagrams...)

 

[SirLotus]

Wiring looks similar to US specs.
a) Replace fuse F16 & F1 and see if that does anything.
b) Check the voltage on the output side of the fuse to see if it reads 12V
c) If you have voltage in above, go on to the "side" & "fog" light switches.
1) With each switch in the "on" position, there should be 12V on all three wires. With the switch "off" there should be 12V on one wire only.
2) If fuse is OK and no voltage anywhere on those switches, you have a "Switch Pack" problem.

 

[alessio]

Wiring looks similar to US specs.
b) Check the voltage on the output side of the fuse to see if it reads 12V

on F16: +12V on both sides
on F1: +12V only on one side
(with ignition off)
Is this normal?

 

[SirLotus]

on F16: +12V on both sides - Now check the two switches as previously explained.

on F1: +12V only on one side (with ignition off) Is this normal? No, the outlet is live all the time, if you are getting that reading with the fuse in, it is a bad fuse

Jut had a thought, maybe the wiring modifications you see is the outlet rewired to switch with the ignition. Turn ignition on and see if you get 12V on both sides.

From previous post, red probe to positive side, black probe to ANY ground.

 

[alessio]

This is what i did on the fuse box:
1- removed fuse F16 and checked both its contacts inside the fuse box against a ground contact in another place: +12v on each contact.
Is it expected to have a signal on both the contacts?

2- removed fuse F1 and checked both its contacts inside the fuse box against a ground contact in another place: +12v only on one contact.
Is it expected to have a signal only on one contact?

3- repeated test #2 with ignition ON: same result
4- repeated test #2 with fuse inserted: +12V on each contact (obviously the fuse is OK)
4b- checked the voltage on the wires of cigarette lighter socket inside the car (with F1 inserted): no voltage!

I think I also got rid of most of the customizations made under the center console wiring, see attached picture.
What concerns me here is the lack of +12V on the power socket, I do not understand why the RED wire comes from the rear of the car, is it the default wiring?

About the SPM issue, I tried to check the sidelamps switch but i am not yet able to reach it (see attached picture, i guess i must remove the green connector to insert the voltmeter probe but it's far from my fingers)

 

[SirLotus]

.

1- removed fuse F16 and checked both its contacts inside the fuse box against a ground contact in another place: +12v on each contact.
Is it expected to have a signal on both the contacts?
NO, AFTER REMOVAL OF FUSE (BREAKING CIRCUIT) SHOULD BE 12V ONLY THE "IN" SIDE OF THE HOLDER2

2- removed fuse F1 and checked both its contacts inside the fuse box against a ground contact in another place: +12v only on one contact.
Is it expected to have a signal only on one contact?
AS ABOVE, IT SHOULD ONLY HAVE 12V ON THE "IN" SIDE ONLY.

3- repeated test #2 with ignition ON: same result

4- repeated test #2 with fuse inserted: +12V on each contact (obviously since the fuse is OK)

4b- checked the voltage on the wires of cigarette lighter socket inside the car (with F1 inserted): no voltage!
THEN THERE MUST BE A BREAK IN THE WIRING OR CONNECTOR

I think I also got rid of most of the customizations made under the center console witing, see attached picture.
What concerns me here is the lack of +12V on the power socket, I do not understand why the RED wire comes from the rear of the car, is it the default wiring?
THE + WIRE SHOULD BE PURPLE, NOT RED

About the SPM issue, I tried to check the sidelamps switch but i am not yet able to reach it (see attached picture, i think i must remove the green connector to insert the voltemeter probe but its far from my fingers)

 

[alessio]

NO, AFTER REMOVAL OF FUSE (BREAKING CIRCUIT) SHOULD BE 12V ONLY THE "IN" SIDE OF THE HOLDER

Ok, then there is a problem here: I see that both F16 and F17 have +12V on both their holders.
F17 is the left dip bean, which actually works fine (though i noticed an odd behavior: once out of ten it does not turn on).
So i guess there's a short somewhere which causes a "double" +12V signal on F16 and F17 and this causes the malfunction of the side/rearfog lamps circuit and maybe the power socket too.

I also guess (hope) this short is not in the Switch Pack Module but somewhere under the central console because there are the wiring customizations.
Now, next step is to understand the wires' colors for F16 and F17 fuse box holders so i can follow them under the central console... do you know the colors mapping? (before i remove the fuse box too see :huh

About the + wire color, you are right: i found that the purple one has +12V.
But for reasons i don't know, the power socket has been connected to a custom RED wire and the signal to this wire is brought by another custom wire which goes under the steering wheel, together with the orange and orange-green original wires. (Note: all worked fine till a couple of days ago, so i can say these wiring customizations are fine).
Are the orange and orange-green wires related to the sidelamps circuit?

 

[SirLotus]

Ok, then there is problem here: I noticed that both F16 and F17 have +12V on both their holders.
WHEN THE FUSE IS REMOVED???? IF YOU PULL THE FUSE IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO HAVE VOLTAGE ON THE OUTPUT SIDE UNLESS THERE IS SOME SORT OF BACKFLOW THROUGH CUSTOM WIRINGF17 is the left dip bean, which actually works fine (though i noticed an odd behavior: once out of ten it does not turn on).
So i guess there's a short somewhere which causes a "double" +12V signal on F16 and F17 and this causes the malfunction of the side/rearfog lamps circuit and maybe the power socket too.

I also guess (hope) this short is not in the Switch Pack Module but somewhere under the central console because there are the wiring customizations.
Now, next step is to understand the wires' colors for F16 and F17 fuse box holders so i can follow them under the central console... do you know the colors mapping? (before i remove the fuse box too see :huh

About the + wire color, you are right: i found that the purple one has +12V.
But for reasons i don't know, the power socket has been connected to a custom RED wire and the signal to this wire is brought by another custom wire which goes under the steering wheel, together with the orange and orange-green original wires. (Note: all worked fine till a couple of days ago, so i can say these wiring customizations are fine).
Are the orange and orange-green wires related to the sidelamps circuit?

NOT THAT I CAN SEE
The only way you are going to be able to figure out this custom wiring yourself, is to study and understand the diagrams, granted not easy. Being remote, I can only give you guidance, which I am very happy to do .
Michael

 

[alessio]

WHEN THE FUSE IS REMOVED???? IF YOU PULL THE FUSE IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO HAVE VOLTAGE ON THE OUTPUT SIDE UNLESS THERE IS SOME SORT OF BACKFLOW THROUGH CUSTOM WIRING

Yes, I confirm: when the fuses are removed i got a +12V signal on the in & out sides of F16 and F17.
A sort of backflow through the custom wiring is what i suppose too.
To check that, i need to know the colors of the wires connected to the in & out of F16 and F17 so i can check them in the custom wirings under the center console... is there a diagram with info about the wiring colors?

 

[SirLotus]

It won't help you because the color changes after the SPM, that's why you need to be able to read the diagrams, your diagram P.29

Yes, I confirm: when the fuses are removed i got a +12V signal on the in & out sides of F16 and F17.
A sort of backflow through the custom wiring is what i suppose too.
To check that, i need to know the colors of the wires connected to the in & out of F16 and F17 so i can check them in the custom wirings under the center console... is there a diagram with info about the wiring colors?

 

[alessio]

ok, let's start with the fundamentals:
in that diagram, is the SPM the big rectangle in the center?