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Discussion Starter #1
I have rebuilt 3 sets now (it is a PITA) and wonder what others are doing? Buying OEM? Rebuilding salvage? Aftermarket?

TIA
 

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I don't know the answer but when I put my car back togehter I am going to go to great lengths to keep them cool.

I have a pair now I can sell that have some track use on them, but they are not leaking at all and I think they are well cleaned and assembled.
 

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when you say "rebuilt" what do you mean? Are you talking about the goo spitting out of the passenger side inner boot, or are you talking about needing to replace worn out cage & bearings? Do you have stock HP?


If you're wearing out the cage and bearings on stock power, I think thats an uncommon problem and would question either the quality of the rebuild or the source of the parts. If its just the goo coming out of the passenger side inner then there are a few options (build a heat plate, decat, look at how you're repacking)
 

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I agree with jds, the better job I did repacking, the longer they lasted. My current set has been probably over 1k miles with no leaks in a very harsh environment. And if it's always the passenger inner then look at heat issues.
 

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I know BOE recommends a specific grease when you buy their boots. I'm trying Red Line CV2 grease this time which is suppose to be high temp.
@kfennell - What grease are you using?

Later,
Eldon
 

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I've had to repack my passenger inner twice. The first time, I thoroughly cleaned everything and used a pump gun to put the grease in the boot. Didn't last. The second time around, I used a spoon thinking there would be less air pockets to get out. I also used a cv band with no distinct overlap to try and get more even load distribution, and as best I could tried to squeeze just enough air not to deform the boot.

Still going strong for 2 yr on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
In answer to @jds62f (plus): by rebuilt, I mean various levels of teardown, swap, regrease (with CV2), reboot (with BOE tuff boots). I am probably at about 260hp, so some extra power but not measured yet and not crazy (stock SC with a tune and 3" pulley).

I have disassembled, cleaned and reassembled inner (6-ball) and outer (8-ball) joints. More recently I do not completely disassemble the outer joints, preferring the tedious cleaning intact to the even-more-tedious reassembly of the 8-ball joints. I have also tried to rehab a partially-exploded Innovative axle.

I find that if the ball bearings have blackened, I find galling that is internally generating heat (I've seen this both on inner-passenger and outer (left and right joints).

I built a special heat-shield for the passenger-inner after I have some ballooning/leaking. This worked for some years and then the issue returned. This is when I started dismantling things.

I use my fingers to pack the joints, then an old piece of axel to press the grease back out through the cage. I then put a couple of extra tablespoons into the boot before Oetiker-clamping. I read that there is a min and a max for how much grease to add, so I use some restraint but do eyeball it.

In the end, I keep a spare refurbished set.

I would love to know where the various joints come from so that I could get individual spare parts.

Here are pics of a cleaned and then repacked outer.
 

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@thebuzzard - That looks like mine. What I did was totally disassembly and clean out the old grease. Put about 6 oz of grease in the housing then reassembled and let the housing force the grease into the cavities. Took the grease that was displaced and pushed it back into the housing.
@jds62f - Jeff what do you mean that you tried to remove the air from the boot?

One other trick that I have heard is to wrap the joint in saran wrap. It at least contains the grease when it starts to eject itself, less mess to cleanup.

Later,
Eldon
 

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I asked my mechanic what he did on the joint that lasted the longest and he said he put in just enough grease to hold the balls in and then like 1 more finger full
 

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The second time I repacked, I put the assembly on the car without having positioned/tightened the smaller clamp on the passenger inner joint. While fitting it, I realized that if I squeezed the boot, I could burp some air out.

My thinking was that if the boot was expanding and goo was popping out, that air is likely expanding much faster than the goo, so I should seek to minimize the amount of air. At first I did a too good of a job and the boot deformed, having some creases where it shouldn't. I messed with it until I squeezed out all the air I could while maintaining the proper shape of the boot.

Still balloons a bit on hot days, but going on 2yr without an issue. Stock power though.





@thebuzzard - That looks like mine. What I did was totally disassembly and clean out the old grease. Put about 6 oz of grease in the housing then reassembled and let the housing force the grease into the cavities. Took the grease that was displaced and pushed it back into the housing.

@jds62f - Jeff what do you mean that you tried to remove the air from the boot?

One other trick that I have heard is to wrap the joint in saran wrap. It at least contains the grease when it starts to eject itself, less mess to cleanup.

Later,
Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If anyone has a secret recipe for dissolving this SOB CV joint grease, please let me/us know. Brake cleaner is a joke. I find plain old Turpentine is the best. Or good old gasoline/petrol.
 

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If you are a track rat, you should be disassembling, cleaning, and repacking your CV's on a somewhat regular basis.

We were having heat related CV issues on our race car. Our current procedure is to only use OEM CV joints. We disassemble them and very carefully grind the cage openings to allow the balls to slip through, stock they are very tight. We will also polish the inner star and outer joint troughs the balls ride in. We pack them with Redline CV2, maybe 70% full, nothing extra in the boot. When we clamp the boot, we insert a red straw from an aerosol can between the boot and axle to vent the boot. This last portion will obviously allow contaminants into the joint. If serviced regularly it is not a big deal.
 

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If anyone has a secret recipe for dissolving this SOB CV joint grease, please let me/us know. Brake cleaner is a joke. I find plain old Turpentine is the best. Or good old gasoline/petrol.
I use SD20. It takes a few applications but it does break it down to where you can wipe it off.

Later,
Eldon
 

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If you are a track rat, you should be disassembling, cleaning, and repacking your CV's on a somewhat regular basis.

We were having heat related CV issues on our race car. Our current procedure is to only use OEM CV joints. We disassemble them and very carefully grind the cage openings to allow the balls to slip through, stock they are very tight. We will also polish the inner star and outer joint troughs the balls ride in. We pack them with Redline CV2, maybe 70% full, nothing extra in the boot. When we clamp the boot, we insert a red straw from an aerosol can between the boot and axle to vent the boot. This last portion will obviously allow contaminants into the joint. If serviced regularly it is not a big deal.
https://nasaspeed.news/race-coverage/championships/tech-inspections-reshuffle-spec-miata-podium/
 

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I don't have rules in my class, I am for sure going to look into opening the cage when I get my new axles.

While we are on axles, who are the good options for custom race axles?
 

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I don't have rules in my class, I am for sure going to look into opening the cage when I get my new axles.

While we are on axles, who are the good options for custom race axles?
Kevin,

Talk to Fred @ BWR, he has been trying to create some custom axles for himself.

Later,
Eldon
 
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