I have rebuilt 3 sets now (it is a PITA) and wonder what others are doing? Buying OEM? Rebuilding salvage? Aftermarket?
@thebuzzard - That looks like mine. What I did was totally disassembly and clean out the old grease. Put about 6 oz of grease in the housing then reassembled and let the housing force the grease into the cavities. Took the grease that was displaced and pushed it back into the housing.
@jds62f - Jeff what do you mean that you tried to remove the air from the boot?
One other trick that I have heard is to wrap the joint in saran wrap. It at least contains the grease when it starts to eject itself, less mess to cleanup.
I use SD20. It takes a few applications but it does break it down to where you can wipe it off.If anyone has a secret recipe for dissolving this SOB CV joint grease, please let me/us know. Brake cleaner is a joke. I find plain old Turpentine is the best. Or good old gasoline/petrol.
https://nasaspeed.news/race-coverage/championships/tech-inspections-reshuffle-spec-miata-podium/If you are a track rat, you should be disassembling, cleaning, and repacking your CV's on a somewhat regular basis.
We were having heat related CV issues on our race car. Our current procedure is to only use OEM CV joints. We disassemble them and very carefully grind the cage openings to allow the balls to slip through, stock they are very tight. We will also polish the inner star and outer joint troughs the balls ride in. We pack them with Redline CV2, maybe 70% full, nothing extra in the boot. When we clamp the boot, we insert a red straw from an aerosol can between the boot and axle to vent the boot. This last portion will obviously allow contaminants into the joint. If serviced regularly it is not a big deal.
Kevin,I don't have rules in my class, I am for sure going to look into opening the cage when I get my new axles.
While we are on axles, who are the good options for custom race axles?