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Thanks for the info. What if I am connecting a device directly to the battery for power and just need to tap it into the ignition for controlled switching? Can I tap it into the same fuse?
You may already be doing this, in which case it's just a reminder for everyone else, but if you're connecting something "directly" to the battery (i.e. a power amp), make sure it's got an inline fuse (of the appropriate size), preferably close to the battery itself.

EDIT: Michael, why did you choose C2 over C3? On my schematic, C3 is the switched power to the radio (key-in)...
 

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++++++11111111 for a fuse, always, always, always, protect with a suitable rated fuse....am I clear ;)
I chose C2 because it had a higher circuit rating and was one I rarely used (wipers). I was using it for a dash mounted 12V outlet. For very low amperage requirements C1, C2 or C3 could be used. I would stay away from C4 as it has ECU implications.
Michael
You may already be doing this, in which case it's just a reminder for everyone else, but if you're connecting something "directly" to the battery (i.e. a power amp), make sure it's got an inline fuse (of the appropriate size), preferably close to the battery itself.

EDIT: Michael, why did you choose C2 over C3? On my schematic, C3 is the switched power to the radio (key-in)...
I'm reinstalling my CarPC. I don't have my Lotus manual, though. Is there a diagram of these fuses? Thanks again.
 

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I chose C2 because it had a higher circuit rating and was one I rarely used (wipers). I was using it for a dash mounted 12V outlet. For very low amperage requirements C1, C2 or C3 could be used. I would stay away from C4 as it has ECU implications.
Michael
OK, that makes sense. I suppose if it's a device that's powered separately (i.e. from battery power) and is just sensing switched ignition power it wouldn't draw significant amperage.
 
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