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Open owners manual, look up tires, read...

Bye, Arno.
 

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Recc'd Tire Pressures are also listed on the driver's side door jam sticker. Near the one that mentions that the Elise meets ALL Federal motor vehicle laws EXCEPT....

26F and 28R, BTW.
 

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I just posted this in another thread, but it's apropos here, too. I just had a wheel fixed by The Tire Doctor (Gaithersburg, MD). Nice job, but when I checked the pressure 2 days later (my mistake -- shoulda done it right away -- it was 42.5 pounds. Car calls for 28, and the tire says max of 40, right on the sidewall. I'll be calling him this morning to discuss it.

ALWAYS check the pressure. Nobody ever bothers to get it right.
 

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What are you hoping to accomplish by calling them? It's not going to make them pay any closer attention in the future, and it's not as though they inflated the tire to some horribly dangerous pressure. If you're that upset about it why not just not take your car there again.
I tried a couple of places before I found a tire shop with real "car people" working in the bays. I didn't bother trying to train the people at the "bad" shops.
 

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Gee, it hardly seems like a big deal to call to discuss it. First of all, I like to give the guy the benefit of the doubt. He might have a new employee who inflates the tires, and needs to be trained. He might have another explanation that makes sense. Or he might just be a jerk, in which case he should know why I'm not coming back.

If I were the owner of a small business, I'd appreciate hearing why a customer isn't satisfied, rather than having him leave without an explanation.

The guy has a pretty good rep, so I'd like to give him the benefit of the doubt.

But I'll also be calling Criswell Lotus too, cause they recommend him (and facilitate the repair). They should know so that, at the very least, they can check the tires after The Wheel Doctor is done.
 

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You should always check things like tire pressure. And not once in a blue moon. Also, as the weather cools this Fall the pressure will drop without any leaks or whatever.

I wound up getting three fronts and one rear in my order for a set of wheels and tires so all sorts of things can happen.

Both the AD07 and AO48 are directional so they are intended to rotate in a specific direction. It's easy to wind up with LHS tires on the RHS of your car.
 

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"One PSI not a difference makes", per Yoda.

I checked the pressures for my Spyder the other day and was alarmed to have them at 42,26,24,18!!:eek: Now they are all 36. Stan's right-spend the 2 minutes to check them like you would oil.
 

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Surferjer said:
"One PSI not a difference makes", per Yoda.

I checked the pressures for my Spyder the other day and was alarmed to have them at 42,26,24,18!!:eek: Now they are all 36. Stan's right-spend the 2 minutes to check them like you would oil.

whats this "oil " you speak of? :confused:
 

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I think "oil" is that stuff that causes that dash light to go on sometimes. That's how you know when to take it to Grease Monkey, right?

:)
 

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Surferjer said:
"One PSI not a difference makes", per Yoda.

I checked the pressures for my Spyder the other day and was alarmed to have them at 42,26,24,18!!:eek: Now they are all 36. Stan's right-spend the 2 minutes to check them like you would oil.
You'd be surprised about how much you can feel 1 psi in this car (on the track).
 

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I'm sure you're right. I was thinking of street driving, but maybe that wasn't the question...
 

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Dan said:
Door jamb sticker says 26/28.

Owner's manual says 26/29.

Which is correct?
Doesn't increasing tire pressure increase thread life and reduce sidewall flexing? I'm thinking of using 30/32 or 32/34 for freeway driving whenever it arrives. But I'll have the LSS tires.
 

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You want the tread to be flat on the road. Too much air and you will make the tire round and the middle will wear faster than the edges.

But, yes, higher air pressures will lead to higher mileage.
 

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Just go by what Lotus recommends.

With any other car maker I'd say up it by 2-4 psi, but not with Lotus. Go to the track with the Lotus engineers and they are running the exact pressures that are on the stickers/manuals. Start there, run it, learn the car, then if you decide to change the suspension you can consider a pressure change.
 

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Allan, higher pressure gives better fuel economy but it can cause accelerated tire wear near the centerline. It can also reduce grip, which has a negative impact on safety.
 

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A remounted tire is always initially overinflated to insure that the the beat seats/seals on the rim. It is a country wide procedure.
the excess pressure also assists the patch/plug seal.
so the guy feels more confident that there won't be sudden deflation if he leaves the excess pressure. the tech might have reduced the pressure to 38 and it crept up due to use and/or weather factors.
calling them up and discussing the problem won't make any difference, except your reputation may spread thru the service industry in your locale.
The max inflation figure is a conservative one anyway....who callibrates their pencil tire gauge before each use?

m
 

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thegit said:
A remounted tire is always initially overinflated to insure that the the beat seats/seals on the rim. It is a country wide procedure.
It's also standard procedure to then reduce the pressure to the factory specs of the car, or to the owner's specs.

How long do you think that the tire needs to be inflated to high pressure for the bead to seat? I think that as soon as the bead goes "BANG!", it's seated and it's safe to release pressure.

As for helping the patch or plug stay in place, do you have any technical information to confirm that? At the factory recommended pressure, 2 atmospheres of pressure are holding the patch down. Is 3 atmospheres significantly different? Anyway, in pinmagic's case it was the wheel that was repaired, not the tire.
 
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