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I have a built Elise for track only with 340whp/239 ftlbs of torque. What is the best most reliable transmission money can buy? I would not be opposed to having to do a rebuild every 40 hours. Sequential, Kaaz, BWR? I don’t think my technique is all bad. I ran the car for many years with non intercooled sc for many years with no gearbox issues.
 

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Assuming you drive the car on the street, sequential is out.

Other options are rebuild C64 with Jubu 3/4 gears; purchase BWR gearset; or swap to the 5-speed E153 transmission. Lots of people have gone with BWR and the boxes have gotten very good reviews. I made the swap about a year ago and have been happy with the box and the gearing as well. It's an expensive upgrade, but my motto is to "do it once, do it right." If you're looking for a 40-hour rebuild cycle and want to stick with the C64 this is absolutely your best bet.
 

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Assuming you drive the car on the street, sequential is out.

Other options are rebuild C64 with Jubu 3/4 gears; purchase BWR gearset; or swap to the 5-speed E153 transmission. Lots of people have gone with BWR and the boxes have gotten very good reviews. I made the swap about a year ago and have been happy with the box and the gearing as well. It's an expensive upgrade, but my motto is to "do it once, do it right." If you're looking for a 40-hour rebuild cycle and want to stick with the C64 this is absolutely your best bet.
Why is a sequential out for street?
 

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Sequential is out for the street because of gear whine and dog lash. There are 4 dogs allowing about 75 degrees of forward and back rotation before any engagement. Very hurky jerky on the street. I've done it, it is doable, but it a race car on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Phil told me sequential requires a dry sump. Not sure why. I didn’t get into any detail. My car is technically street legal where I live, but I only use it for the track. The gearbox from eliseparts looks awesome.
 

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Phil told me sequential requires a dry sump. Not sure why. I didn’t get into any detail. My car is technically street legal where I live, but I only use it for the track. The gearbox from eliseparts looks awesome.
What I have been told, by Phil, is a sequential does not give the motor any time to drop RPM and the oil pump gears will not survive.

Later,
Eldon
 

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I know they have a "short ratio" gear set but don't really know what else. The stock trans in the elise have known issues and are not great at all if you push the HP much -- that is my understanding after reading all of these posts. I am curious because I want to do some endurance events and people I have talked to said the trans is the weak link.
 

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I know they have a "short ratio" gear set but don't really know what else. The stock trans in the elise have known issues and are not great at all if you push the HP much -- that is my understanding after reading all of these posts. I am curious because I want to do some endurance events and people I have talked to said the trans is the weak link.
If endurance events = roughly stock power and street tires then you are probably fine and just want to consider an upgraded clutch.
 

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The stock trans in the elise have known issues and are not great at all if you push the HP much -- that is my understanding after reading all of these posts.
This is simply not true. The stock Elise/Exige trans/clutch will last indefinitely at 250 bhp if driven correctly on street tires and a few track days a year. The problem starts at closer to 300 bhp with people that can't drive properly or are beating on the car at the track with slicks regularly. Then you have the hot-dogs with 300 at the wheels chiming in about stock trans. Idiots.
 

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This is simply not true. The stock Elise/Exige trans/clutch will last indefinitely at 250 bhp if driven correctly on street tires and a few track days a year. The problem starts at closer to 300 bhp with people that can't drive properly or are beating on the car at the track with slicks regularly. Then you have the hot-dogs with 300 at the wheels chiming in about stock trans. Idiots.
I have read more posts since my previous post and it seems the the stock trans is good to ~290HP in street applicatons. I'm planning to run endurance races so I am mostly interested in the most cost effective upgrade for my use. Considering I will have 4 different guys of varying skills drive the car with hard up/down shifts I would rather be prepared by swapping it out with something stronger. Thanks for all the thoughts/comments!
 

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I have read more posts since my previous post and it seems the the stock trans is good to ~290HP in street applicatons. I'm planning to run endurance races so I am mostly interested in the most cost effective upgrade for my use. Considering I will have 4 different guys of varying skills drive the car with hard up/down shifts I would rather be prepared by swapping it out with something stronger. Thanks for all the thoughts/comments!
I think that, even with stock power, if you're competing and having different drivers, it's very prudent to have the trans gone through.

From my reading, Blackwatch has some great solutions.
 

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I have read more posts since my previous post and it seems the the stock trans is good to ~290HP in street applicatons. I'm planning to run endurance races so I am mostly interested in the most cost effective upgrade for my use. Considering I will have 4 different guys of varying skills drive the car with hard up/down shifts I would rather be prepared by swapping it out with something stronger. Thanks for all the thoughts/comments!
I endurance race. The best advice I have for you is to develop your drivers as a priority over developing the car. It's team preparedness that wins an endurance race. You don't win an endurance race by shifting fast or hard. It takes drivers a while to develop skill shifting, even when they think they're already there. Shifting is more like trigger pull or a golf swing than than riding a bike. Little things that go unnoticed for a while can add up to DNFs and repair bills. Something like lifting the clutch pedal a fraction of a second before having the gear engaged will damage/wear the synchronizer hubs and blocking rings. You can review the video to check for things like that. But if you know all that, then by all means, build up the trans!
 
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