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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Turn, if you would, to Sheet 13 in your hynmal (the Elise wiring diagrams). What on earth is that thing on the left?

A six-wire module called the "TRACKER MODULE". It has an Aerial (separate from the alarm), a dedicated backup battery(!), and connections to the Fuel Pump +, 12v, and ground. That's all! The only external connection is to the fuel pump.

There is no mention of it in the Electronics Modules placement where the immobilizer and such are described.

Where in the car is it? And most importantly.. what is it tracking? Is it a receiver, transmitter, or both? If we can locate it, we should be able to look up the FCC ID and find out much more. But.. where does it hide?
 

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weird, maybe it's an option or something.

In sheet 2 there splice xy is connected to the fuel pump as well as the immobilizer (sheet 4) pin 6, maybe you can follow the wire if you find that splice.

On sheet 3 splice C goes to fuse F8 (Battery services)

Good luck finding it ;)
 

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"Trackers" are much more common in England. It may be an option there.

Think LoJack. One reason it isn't popular here is because coverage is not ubiquitous. England being a much smaller land area has pretty complete coverage. There are significant discounts for insurance there if you have a tracker. I think Elises are classed 20 of 22 (?) as far as insurance rates. Hopefully one of our English brethren can better explain/correct my explanation of their insurance situation over there.

Greg
 

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Ground Loop said:
Turn, if you would, to Sheet 13 in your hynmal (the Elise wiring diagrams). What on earth is that thing on the left?

A six-wire module called the "TRACKER MODULE". It has an Aerial (separate from the alarm), a dedicated backup battery(!), and connections to the Fuel Pump +, 12v, and ground. That's all! The only external connection is to the fuel pump.

There is no mention of it in the Electronics Modules placement where the immobilizer and such are described.

Where in the car is it? And most importantly.. what is it tracking? Is it a receiver, transmitter, or both? If we can locate it, we should be able to look up the FCC ID and find out much more. But.. where does it hide?

yes, every elise has a global tracker built in MUAHAHAHA! they knew that there was no way that the cops could ever catch an elise if the driver decided to run so they put trackers on all of them to keep an eye on them. :eek:

seriously though, the elise is simply prewired for a lojack type unit. this is a very common option for high end vehicles in the european market as auto theft over there is actually pretty bad.
 

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"Trackers" are much more common in England. It may be an option there.
...
The A/C says optional, and I have seen (optional) in other pages of the electrical system.
And I believe that the siren can come on even when the battery is disconnected?
 

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The A/C says optional, and I have seen (optional) in other pages of the electrical system.
And I believe that the siren can come on even when the battery is disconnected?
how do you manage to dig out those 8 year old threads :shrug:
 

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how do you manage to dig out those 8 year all threads :shrug:
Well if my fuel pump fuse worked, and the fuel pump worked, then I would not be chasing the circuits that are connected to Splice XY on sheet #4 of the wiring diagrams, as well as looking at sheets 2,10,13.
 

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Well if my fuel pump fuse worked, and the fuel pump worked, then I would not be chasing the circuits that are connected to Splice XY on sheet #4 of the wiring diagrams, as well as looking at sheets 2,10,13.
I just stumbled across this for the same reason. Any resolution to your problem? My fuel pump relay clicks, fuse is okay, starter spins, no fuel. This is all a relatively new and intermittent problem. The shop that had the problem last was just poking around, lights flickered, and voilla. I then put on a few hundred miles thinking all was good then it came back.
 

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I just stumbled across this for the same reason. Any resolution to your problem? My fuel pump relay clicks, fuse is okay, starter spins, no fuel. This is all a relatively new and intermittent problem. The shop that had the problem last was just poking around, lights flickered, and voilla. I then put on a few hundred miles thinking all was good then it came back.
Mine was the connector shorting, but connector opening sounds plausible.
I would probably measure the current through the pump if I thought it was a connector.... And you can do that via the fuse block if you get some spaded-wires from the fuse into a VOM. My Fluke has a 10A or 15A fuse in it, so it is still fused. I think it was pulling ~6 or 7 Amps :shrug: If there is no current, then it is the connector or maybe the pump.

Yours sounds more like a classic "just replace the pump" failure. Maybe the current changes? :shrug:


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If you were ever thinking "swirl pot", then you can do a tank instead... Although I think that some people caveman a hole into the car rather than drop the tank.
 

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Mine was the connector shorting, but connector opening sounds plausible.

I would probably measure the current through the pump if I thought it was a connector.... And you can do that via the fuse block if you get some spaded-wires from the fuse into a VOM. My Fluke has a 10A or 15A fuse in it, so it is still fused. I think it was pulling ~6 or 7 Amps :shrug: If there is no current, then it is the connector or maybe the pump.



Yours sounds more like a classic "just replace the pump" failure. Maybe the current changes? :shrug:





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If you were ever thinking "swirl pot", then you can do a tank instead... Although I think that some people caveman a hole into the car rather than drop the tank.

PO did the caveman hole already it sounds like. I'm not convinced it is the pump. I'm about the probe the voltage at the inertia switch. If that goes to 12V on key on, then I know the MFRU is good. If that's the case, then next in line is to verify the inertia switch then immobilizer then pump. The pump sounds aftermarket and is normally quite noisy, so I highly doubt it is getting any power since it is now dead quiet. Plus, the shop had a wiring issue, so I'm presuming this is the same problem since I am having all the same symptoms. I may just have to drop the undertray so I can get to the MFRU connectors better


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PO did the caveman hole already it sounds like. I'm not convinced it is the pump. I'm about the probe the voltage at the inertia switch. If that goes to 12V on key on, then I know the MFRU is good. If that's the case, then next in line is to verify the inertia switch then immobilizer then pump. The pump sounds aftermarket and is normally quite noisy, so I highly doubt it is getting any power since it is now dead quiet. Plus, the shop had a wiring issue, so I'm presuming this is the same problem since I am having all the same symptoms. I may just have to drop the undertray so I can get to the MFRU connectors better


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I think it was Mikelr who had the pins out for the MFRU... Search for MFRU and my name and you should get there about 6 months ago.

Personally I would start with a VOM plugged into the fuse block - Just change the 100W light for a VOM 'set to amps'...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9426818687/in/set-72157608754247446/player/

If that shows a few amps of current, then it is certainly the pump.
If that does not show current, then I would suggest going from the MFRU to see what the impedance (resistance) is looking towards the pump.
If that is on the order of a 1/2 to 2 ohms, then power the pump from the jumping the battery to the MFRU output pin, and see if it works. If it rattles away then order an MFRU. If it does not, then you need to pull the plug off the pump and see what is happening on that end of the wire. There are wire "open" testers which put a tone into the wire and you run a probe down the wire to see where the break is, but they do not work on a short.
(I am leaning towards the pump or the MRFU)

On mine the MFRU was supplying the power to the pump, and the pump tested OK once I had it out, and the impedance was OK testing in-situ. It was just blowing the fuse, which is why I used the 100W globe as a fuse. So in the end I replaced the connector and it was job done... Then I set out and drove 2000 miles the next morning.
 

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So I did not draw any current with the meter in place. Then I measured the voltage at the purple wire at the inertia switch and it was 12V. That shows the MFRU is ok. Looks like I have the immobilizer and fuel pump connectors left to check out


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