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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping to draw on the expertise in the forum to give me some things to check out or possibly replace while I have the back clam off and the engine open (but not out).

So my question is what are some common problematic things that I should look at and/or replace while I have the back off and engine open?

I'm not looking for things that are performance related, just parts that commonly wear prematurely, or just commonly need replacing, that are easier to do, or can only be done, while the clam is off and/or the engine is open.

Thanks,

Zro
 

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- Serpentine belt, if it's due. There's a trick where you use a stick from under the car to push on the tensioner, but either way, easier with the clam off.

- Thermostat. Seems to be a relatively common failure and nearly impossible with the clam on.

- Air filter or upgraded airbox. Not too bad clam on but clam off saves you the tab-closing pain of a normal air filter change.

- Camshafts. The intake cam is prone to wiping. Some of the resident engine experts say that setting the valve lash to a wider value (by buying new shims, kind of a pain) can help prevent the issue.

- VVT and VVL filters. Little strainers for the VVT/VVL oil passages. Not really known to clog without an extra issue (bad oil, high miles, debris in oil) but quick to check with the clam off, especially if you don't know the history of the car.

- Exhaust support clamp - there's a support that attaches to the exhaust before the cat/u-bend, and it's known to crack and make weird rattling noises. Also not hard to check with the clam on, but while you're at it might as well check yours.

- Radium clamshell quick removal kit! That way it's a lot easier next time. Or go all out and buy a BOE Clam Hinge.

- When you're taking the clam off and on, and especially when you take the interior apart, get some sticky soft felt or weatherstripping and put it everywhere where you see contact. The car will be quieter when you put it together than when you pulled it apart!
 

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What is wrong with the OEM toe links? The inner bolts are a size too small for track use, but adding a cross brace puts them in double shear...effectively doubling their capacity. It's only the inner bolts of the toe link that are weak not the toe link itself.
 
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