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What's the Best Synthetic Oil for Elise?


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Mark16q said:
I just bought a case of this today...it was the only thing I could find out in Agoura/Thousand Oaks. Got it at a Valvoline oil change shop for $5.99 quart and hope it's o.k. They wanted to change the oil for me for $110, but did it myself. New car and want to "get to know" the car :cool:

Mark
Just from the standpoint of color, I found that
the Valvoline turns darker than Castrol's at the same
mileage points. Like you, Havoline is 'impossible' to
find so I've been using Castrol's 5W-40 Synthetic for
some time now.
 

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Ridgemanron said:
Just from the standpoint of color, I found that
the Valvoline turns darker than Castrol's at the same
mileage points. Like you, Havoline is 'impossible' to
find so I've been using Castrol's 5W-40 Synthetic for
some time now.
I've always liked the Castrol stuff, and ran it in my motorcycles and other cars. But couldn't find it yesterday and "needed" to get the oil change going before it rained. And it did rain and had the job done before it got wet. I'll be looking for 5/40 now that I've got some time b4 the next change and have it ready in the garage. Nothing worse than being in the mood for a project and you can't find the bits and pieces to do it.

Mar
 

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Hoping my ignorance of oil standards may be illuminated...

Lotus specify 5W-40 API SL/CF, SJ/CF, ACEA A3 oil.

Motul 8100X-Cess Meets the above to the letter...
The presumably higher grade Motul 3000V is however API SG/CD...

Is this a higher standard than the API SL/CF, SJ/CF, ACEA A3 from the 8100X-Cess???

Appreciate any thoughts / insight.

Thank you!
 

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no mention of the ZDDP content in all of the above, (by name), just "the additives"
some of the newer oils have lower content, (for the epa crap).
the 2zz-ge engine has been said to prefer the old spec for this.
i suppose the benefits have to do with the cam/lifter hardware.
motorcycle manufacturers have also chimed in on this where the engine oil is also the gearbox oil. that's why i used the genuine honda oils in my gold wing.
i'm obviously no authority on this, just a concerned consumer trying to preserve the parts at 8,000+ rpm.
i use redline oil at present because it is said to conform to the earlier spec.

by the way, a great thread.
 

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a7an said:
The presumably higher grade Motul 3000V is however API SG/CD...

Is this a higher standard than the API SL/CF, SJ/CF, ACEA A3 from the 8100X-Cess???
No. In general, the higher the "letters" the higher, or at least, more recent the standard. In general , SL is higher than SG, which was higher than SF, etc. Same for the "C"s.

However, there is talk that the latest versions are actually limiting certain ingredients that may protect your engine - in the name of emissions. In this case, you may want to not use the most current grade. Or may be you do.
 

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Amazon

I found the following at Amazon.com. Any comments?


Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5W40, gallon

Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5W40, gallon by Valvoline
Buy new: $47.39 $31.59
Automotive: See all 3 items
2.
Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Motor Oil 5W40 Multi-Grade 12 Quart Case

Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Motor Oil 5W40 Multi-Grade 12 Quart Case by Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
Buy new: $108.00 $97.20
Automotive: See all 3 items
3.
Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Motor Oil 5W40 Multi-Grade 1 Quart Bottle

Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Motor Oil 5W40 Multi-Grade 1 Quart Bottle by Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
$9.00 Click to see price
Automotive: See all 3 items:confused:
 

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Since Lotus specs 10W/60 for track use I decided to go with Castrol TWS 10W/60 (standard on the BMW M5) - considered the highest quality synthetic on the market by some. You can buy it online:

http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
 

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Devious said:
Best oil FOR WHAT? Longest use/abuse? Price? Power? Reduced wear/friction? For how you use your engine/car? Best matches the clearances, pressure, and temperatures of your engine? This list could go on, and on.

An oil that may be very good for several of the above, may not be best for the others.

Several well known (and well promoted) oils, do not last as long as others - their additive packages break down rather quickly - even though they may show performance gains on a dyno right after an oil change.

As long as there will be oil used for lubricating engines, there will be controversy. Do you own research, talk to racers and engine builders who know the wear in their engines, and make your own choices. There are many very good oils available, just don't fall for marketing hype.

For use in the 2ZZ engine (with the high speed cam riding on a non-rolling rocker arm without pressure lubrication), you might want to check into how well a given oil performs in the Falex pin and V-block tests for ASTM D-3233 - http://www.ice32.com/Falex_Flier.pdf

Oil analysis is another tool that will help you decide if the oil you are currently running is doing its job, and for how long.

I hope this helps.
The pdf file is an excellent explanation of these test procedures. I just find it humorous that the actual product being tested is a Pag46 viscosity refrigeration oil for automotive air conditioning compressors. ICE32 is a trade name for an additive.
 
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Royal Purple Launches new 5W40 Oil Specially Formulated for European Cars

Royal Purple has added a new 5W-40 high performance motor oil to their extensive top-of-the line synthetic lubricant line. Royal Purple 5W-40 has all of the performance advantages of other Royal Purple motor oils while meeting API SM and CF warranty requirements as well as European ACEA A2-96 and A3- 02 warranty requirements. 5W- 40 has become an increasing common viscosity specification particularly in European automobiles.

Increase Your Power- Royal Purple motor oil reduces friction and improves combustion efficiency, which translates into more horsepower and torque. Royal Purple has been proven in independent tests to increase horsepower and torque between 3%-5% compared to leading synthetic and conventional oils.

Save Fuel And Money At The Pump- According to independent research done by North Carolina State University, using Royal Purple motor oil instead of other "energy-conserving motor oils" offers fuel economy gains of up to 4.5%. The synthetic fluids' low coefficient of friction means you'll be making fewer stops for gas.

Wipe Out Wear- Royal Purple motor oil is made from a blend of synthetic oils and the company's proprietary, synthetic Synerlec additive technology. Synerlec greatly reduces engine heat and wear. And because it's extremely tenacious, it adheres to engine surfaces after shutdown, which means you get extra engine protection every time you start up.

Extend Your Drain Intervals-Royal Purple's 5W40 lasts longer than other motor oils, so you can safely extend your oil change intervals-up to 12,000 miles or more, as long as you change the filter regularly.

Keep It Cool- Royal Purple's film strength is up to 400% stronger than other leading motor oils, which means the oil reduces both wear and heat to protect the engine, all while keeping friction to a minimum.

About Royal Purple
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One Royal Purple Lane
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Phone: 281-354-8600
Web: www.royalpurple.com
 

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I realize this is an old poll, and a definitely "aged" thread - however, just thought that I might add just RECENTLY that elf 5w-40 has been tested and endorsed by VW, Mercedes and several others for use as a high-performance, LOW sludging (was a big problem I hear for VW & Merc) fully synthetic that exceeds ANSI (or is that API?) standards of the recommended Havoline. My Jaguar Mechanic is highly recommending it. Anyone have any insight or experience with elf products, or even this oil in particular?
 

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no mention of the ZDDP content in all of the above, (by name), just "the additives"
some of the newer oils have lower content, (for the epa crap).
the 2zz-ge engine has been said to prefer the old spec for this.
i suppose the benefits have to do with the cam/lifter hardware.
This is exactly why I use Amsoil - it doesn't techincally meet the latest specifications due to its higher ZDDP content, but is "recommended" for cars specifying the newer oil standards such as API SM/CF.

Their MSDS is vague on the amount of zinc by weight, but does state:
CERCLA 40 CFR 302.4..........Zinc Compounds @1.62-2.5%

John
 

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So, I've been looking at oils for the past few days. I'm not an expert, not by a longshot. But here's what I think I've learned:

The earlier the spec (i.e. SG) the better the lubrication, but perhaps at the cost of the catalytic converter. The later the spec (SM seems to be the current), the better off for the cat, but at the cost of lubrication, especially given the design of our second cam.

So with that, is the middle ground the best place to be? Motul 8100 Xcess seems to be SL, which is before M, but still several revs after G. If the Lotus spec is in fact SL, SJ (thx a7an), does that mean we should aim between the two?

I understand that Zinc and/or ZDDP quantities were reduced in the later specs, is that M only, or L also? If it was reduced in M only, then Motul 8100 Xcess should be the perfect oil for us?

Thoughts? -poke- C'mon all you engineers out there! :)

Edit: One thing I think we can conclude is that we should avoid the SM spec...anyone disagree?
 

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Where did you hear this? I was told specifically that you want to use 5w40 by my dealer(mechanic) for everything to work right(the cam changeover specifically) but I have little faith in what they have to say.
There is a service bulletin out about it, but basically it says that 10W60 is appropriate for racing condition - note however, that they are talking about actual extended racing/competition usage, not just track days.
 
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