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I tried a heatgun, I tried adhesive remover... takes forever and is just painful to deal with!

Is there a quick, secret way to do it? I'm this close to just diagonally slicing it every 2", and trying to deal with small strips. There's gotta be a better way that doesn't require taking a razor to my project clam.

Anyone got any ideas? Heatgun just splits the film wherever i have it pulled up.
 

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In removing the clearbra from the Elise it did not go well. Just sections at a time. Yes I used a heat gun. yes I pulled at a 45 degree angle. It did come off but left glue.

THE friggin glue! I used paint prep, alcohol, paint thinner, acetone, seems like nothing would remove it. Finally used lacquer thinner...yup like a charm. Did not bother the paint. Keep turning the cloth as to not smear the removed glue. Right after used alcohol and after that paint prep to insure that I did not have any lacquer thinner behind. paint prep is a water based product that removes contaminates from the paint before painting...wonder why they call it paint prep. OK its late...

Hope this helps good luck!
 

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Yes there is a magic secret. It's called a steamer. I just replaced my rockers and they came off easy, in one piece, and didn't leave any goo. Took 2 minutes per side. Had been on 4 years and 45K miles.
I've never had a problem removing any or it leaving any goo. But then again I work with the brand I sell and not "Starshield" brand. I wholeheartedly believe what I sell is better in every way.

Any goo left behind (if you use one of those "crappy" films that leaves a bunch a goo) should easily be cut by a product called rapid remover. You spray it on and in 60 seconds the glue turns to jelly. It's citrus based and is not harsh on the paint.

I did end up with a crappy kit on the front end of my car that the body shop put on when I had the clam replaced. I've never been happy with it and it hazes up and continually needs polishing, unlike the stuff I put on 4 years ago behind the rear wheels which still looks new and crystal clear. So finally pulling that one off and replacing on Monday. Should be fun- garbage film over a repaint (well new paint on a new clam, but still nothing rushed through a body shop is ever like factory) I guess we'll get to see if I screw my car up right before LOG.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes there is a magic secret. It's called a steamer. I just replaced my rockers and they came off easy, in one piece, and didn't leave any goo. Took 2 minutes per side. Had been on 4 years and 45K miles.
I've never had a problem removing any or it leaving any goo. But then again I work with the brand I sell and not "Starshield" brand. I wholeheartedly believe what I sell is better in every way.

Any goo left behind (if you use one of those "crappy" films that leaves a bunch a goo) should easily be cut by a product called rapid remover. You spray it on and in 60 seconds the glue turns to jelly. It's citrus based and is not harsh on the paint.

I did end up with a crappy kit on the front end of my car that the body shop put on when I had the clam replaced. I've never been happy with it and it hazes up and continually needs polishing, unlike the stuff I put on 4 years ago behind the rear wheels which still looks new and crystal clear. So finally pulling that one off and replacing on Monday. Should be fun- garbage film over a repaint (well new paint on a new clam, but still nothing rushed through a body shop is ever like factory) I guess we'll get to see if I screw my car up right before LOG.
I've got some 3M adhesive and wax remover. It worked pretty well when I removed 8 year old stripes from my Miata. Same basic action, it jellied the adhesive bits in about 30-60 seconds.

Where could I find a steamer? This one's a new one on me? On a related topic, You have PM, SDD.
 

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I've got some 3M adhesive and wax remover. It worked pretty well when I removed 8 year old stripes from my Miata. Same basic action, it jellied the adhesive bits in about 30-60 seconds.

Where could I find a steamer? This one's a new one on me? On a related topic, You have PM, SDD.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Euroflex-Monster-Super-Soap-Steamer-SC20S_W0QQitemZ120417957534QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0978369e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

This would probably get you by. Not to mention it's hard to find a better cleaner. I use mine for everything. Cleaning out around the tail lights, wheels and tires, wheel wells, bathroom, etc. Just make sure you use distilled water in them. Makes simple water a more effective cleaner than nearly any of the chemicals you have now.
 

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I tried a bunch of removal techniques this weekend and here's the skinny:

- hair dryer. Works great and leaves very little adhesive residue.
- steam. Helpful like the hair dryer, but it's hard to get it right. When you use too much steam, the adhesive gets too soft and you leave a load of gooey residue.
- heat gun. Hard to get the heat right. Too much heat and you leave loads of goo. It also softens the plastic enough that it really stretches and breaks.
- heat gun with water spray. I figured if steam was good, I could more easily get the steam where I wanted by spraying water and then hitting it with heat. This method required more work and came with all the heat gun disadvantages.
- hair dryer with dilute soap solution. I tied spraying a stream of soap solution under the film right where it comes off the paint. This might have helped a little, but not worth the effort.
- hair dryer with alcohol solution. I tried the same thing with alcohol solution. It just softened the adhesive more and led to more goo.

Verdict: by far the most effective method is hair dryer and a slow steady pull. The hair dryer lend enough heat to soften the adhesive a little, and leaves almost no goo. Working in the hot sun would probably be just as effective and more pleasant.

If you are going to immedately reinstall the film, it's probably OK to have a few hints of adhesive residue. On Aspen White paint, much of the residue was not visible until I went over it with a dusty rag. I removed most of it, but I don't think it would have mattered if I missed some, as long as it was clean.

I tried alcohol and naptha to remove the goo. Alcohol worked pretty well. Use a solvent rag to soften the stuff and a clean rag to rub it off. Otherwise, the solvent rag just smears it around.
 

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First off, I will NEVER put film on my car again unless I pay someone else to remove and install it (although I don't like, so I won't). To remove the Starshield, experiment with different techniques posted on here. I tried heat and it left SIGNIFICANTLY more glue than without heat. When pulling the film, TAKE YOUR TIME. I had the least amount of glue left behind when I pulled at 90 degree angles to the surface. And for glue removal I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover (which is different forms of alcohol bases) and it worked ok, except it evaporates to fast. What worked BEST by far was DeSolvit Contractors Strength which is citrus oil based and DID NOT hurt the paint at all (nor did the 3m) and it doesn't evaporate. I let it soak in for 10-30 mins depending on how thick the glue spots were. I also used a combination of finger nail scratching, PLASTIC putty knife, and a dry soft towel for the final residue. While scratching with your finger nail and the PLASTIC putty knife do it LIGHTLY or you will scratch the surface. Finally, ice down your thumbs and fingers cause they hurt like hell from pulling constantly!
 
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