Wheel studs
Good info on the thread...
The studs hold your wheels on, so when one comes loose, it is not good, especially, since there are only 4. Good advice all around. From my racing book:
1. The thread engagement should be a minimum of the fastener diameter. Hence, 12mm stud means at least 12mm of thread in the nut or hole on both ends. Any more makes the engaged part stronger than the stud, so does not hurt for safety, but does not add anything. Hence wheel nuts are 12mm tall or more.
2. Stud material and construction is important. Hence, buy from a reputable vendor. Check the rating (10 or 12 metric and Grade 8 SAE).
3. There is a rating for thread quality.
4. threads should be rolled and shoulders undercut for stress relieve. (Above pics look right).
5. Titanium is a questionable material, if lots of taking on/off is required. But this is a religious argument, here.
6. Using breaker bar to crack the nuts is excessive. This also depends on your strength. If I had to do that, I would pull the stud out or damage the threads. Impact wrenches are a bad idea, also, for same reason. They tend to damage the thread. using them to spin the nut on or off is OK, but not to beat on it.
7. Studs and nuts have to be installed and torqued properly. The strength of the stud relies on the pre-tension opposite to the force applied by the nut. (Not so important for wheels, not enough load... maybe..)
Anton
Don't get short studs. Over time, you'll wind up using different wheels and/or spacers. You don't want to wind up having to change the studs to accommodate this. Then get yourself a 1/4" battery operated impact wrench and a 17mm deep socket. Then you won't care how many extra threads there are on the stud.
EDIT: I probably don't need to remind anyone, but always use a breaker bar to initially "break" the nuts on disassembly, always hand thread the nuts a turn or two onto the studs on reassembly, use the impact wrench just to "snug" the nuts onto the wheel, and use a proper torque wrench to apply final torque.